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Front drive shaft broken

Clark Kent

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I had my front driveshaft replaced under warranty today. I reported that it was throwing CV lubricant last June at 12 months and 13,000km odo. With the agents senior tech we looked at it on their hoist. That shaft had been disturbed previously for a transfer case replacement so we agreed to clean it up and I would monitor it. It continued to throw lube from one bolt location at the TC end so it was replaced today at 18 months, 21,000km odo as a precaution.
No obvious differences in the new shaft. A standard serial item as far as I can tell.

New shaft pix
 

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Logsplitter

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I’m beginning to think that my Grenadiers front drive shaft failure may have been caused as a result of being taken off /disturbed on various occasions inc twice to have Bowden cable replacements
Maybe the CV joint hasn’t been supported when dropping the prop shaft and so damaging the rubber gaiter🤔
 

Clark Kent

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I’m beginning to think that my Grenadiers front drive shaft failure may have been caused as a result of being taken off /disturbed on various occasions inc twice to have Bowden cable replacements
Maybe the CV joint hasn’t been supported when dropping the prop shaft and so damaging the rubber gaiter🤔
Could be a factor for sure. The rubber boots/gaiters on the shaft that came off my vehicle today are undamaged. The lube was leaking past a bolt. Pic below. If there is a seal between the flange and the end cover then presumably it was coming past the seal. Perhaps the cover was dislodged when the shaft was dropped off the TC flange 🤷‍♂️

According to my agent the old shaft gets stored onsite for a month and if IA have no further interest it gets scrapped. I want to try and claim the shaft as a backup after repairing or replacing the leaking CV. I can only ask.
 

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Tazzieman

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Could be a factor for sure. The rubber boots/gaiters on the shaft that came off my vehicle today are undamaged. The lube was leaking past a bolt.
So either the gasket was damaged or the bolt hole/bolt is faulty. Should be able to diagnose.
 

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Could be a factor for sure. The rubber boots/gaiters on the shaft that came off my vehicle today are undamaged. The lube was leaking past a bolt. Pic below. If there is a seal between the flange and the end cover then presumably it was coming past the seal. Perhaps the cover was dislodged when the shaft was dropped off the TC flange 🤷‍♂️

According to my agent the old shaft gets stored onsite for a month and if IA have no further interest it gets scrapped. I want to try and claim the shaft as a backup after repairing or replacing the leaking CV. I can only ask.
Ok so a leak around the bolt where a gasket/ seal was damaged. That’s interesting. Dealers and service centres are now fully aware and checking on that when reinstalling prop shafts I trust.
 
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Interesting you say that 😉
And by high angle CV at the pinion end I was specifically referring to a high angle Rzeppa style joint, assuming it can be built with a stronger more high angle version than the OEM Rzeppa. A single cardan joint is not possible on the pinion end as it can not be properly aligned without unacceptable changes to the caster angle.
 

Dokatd

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And by high angle CV at the pinion end I was specifically referring to a high angle Rzeppa style joint, assuming it can be built with a stronger more high angle version than the OEM Rzeppa. A single cardan joint is not possible on the pinion end as it can not be properly aligned without unacceptable changes to the caster angle.
Yes, Rzeppa. But I'm not convinced the factory size or angle capacity is a problem at the diff. We will certainly sort that out though.

The Tcase joint seemingly fails due to a failed boot and the subsequent release of all its life blood. Once the grease is gone the joint starts to fail rapidly. That said, I have yet to see where the joint fully failed except for one guy whose C-clip on the joint failed.
 

angstorms

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When I looked at it look like the same as one Spicer make in China,note this is from the Teraflex kit, to get more angle the outer flange would need to be widen and shorten or angled outward currently it is vertical outer wall currently. . Note these are just stamped steel with rubber inner pressed in. If you craw under your other cars you see the same joint being used on them for drive line aka BMW, Audi, VW, and lot more.
IMG_0372.jpeg
IMG_0371.jpeg
IMG_0373.jpeg
 
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The OEM/Terraflex Rzeppa joints seem to be a pretty standard model used across many vehicle platforms. U-joints used in cardan setups are available in multiple variations depending on the strength and angle of operation required. Usual models for off road applications are 1310, 1330, 1350 and 1410 in order of increasing strength and size. My experience with Rzeppa joints is limited and I do not know if mutiple variations with different strengths are commonly available for drive shaft applications. But as Dokatd has mentioned it might not be necessary to change the Rzeppa at the pinion end as the failures are happening at the transfercase hence the use of a double cardan joint to replace the Rzeppa at that end. An open question is what size u-joint should be used in the double cardan at the TC. Tom Woods will be able to provide the necessary input to determine the correct size. A 1310 joint is probably sufficient but stepping up to a 1350 would provide an extra margin of capacity assuming it can allow for the required angle of operation.
 
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The OEM/Terraflex Rzeppa joints seem to be a pretty standard model used across many vehicle platforms. U-joints used in cardan setups are available in multiple variations depending on the strength and angle of operation required. Usual models for off road applications are 1310, 1330, 1350 and 1410 in order of increasing strength and size. My experience with Rzeppa joints is limited and I do not know if mutiple variations with different strengths are commonly available for drive shaft applications. But as Dokatd has mentioned it might not be necessary to change the Rzeppa at the pinion end as the failures are happening at the transfercase hence the use of a double cardan joint to replace the Rzeppa at that end. An open question is what size u-joint should be used in the double cardan at the TC. Tom Woods will be able to provide the necessary input to determine the correct size. A 1310 joint is probably sufficient but stepping up to a 1350 would provide an extra margin of capacity assuming it can allow for the required angle of operation.

My concern with going to a DC at the transfer case is that the DC is likely longer than the Rzeppa. This will have the side effect of increasing the angle of shaft at the pinion end. Is it possible to drop the transfer case mount by an inch?
 

C-Mack

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If true higher operating angle Rzeppa joints even exist and can be spec’d with bigger internal bearings and longer races allowing more angle/flex combined with a larger diameter/revised boot opening I’d much rather stick with Rzeppa’s at both ends for a smoother ride.

Not saying some combination of Rzeppa or double cardan can’t be made to work but the more straightforward a replacement is the better. Certainly willing to see what can be developed assuming it’s fully tested/verified and runs as smooth as OEM… fingers crossed.
 
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Dokatd

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The OEM/Terraflex Rzeppa joints seem to be a pretty standard model used across many vehicle platforms. U-joints used in cardan setups are available in multiple variations depending on the strength and angle of operation required. Usual models for off road applications are 1310, 1330, 1350 and 1410 in order of increasing strength and size. My experience with Rzeppa joints is limited and I do not know if mutiple variations with different strengths are commonly available for drive shaft applications. But as Dokatd has mentioned it might not be necessary to change the Rzeppa at the pinion end as the failures are happening at the transfercase hence the use of a double cardan joint to replace the Rzeppa at that end. An open question is what size u-joint should be used in the double cardan at the TC. Tom Woods will be able to provide the necessary input to determine the correct size. A 1310 joint is probably sufficient but stepping up to a 1350 would provide an extra margin of capacity assuming it can allow for the required angle of operation.
1310 is more than big enough. It's also much lower mass and I believe has a slightly higher operating angle in stock form. But yes 1350's are being considered. The stock Discovery Series II Double Cardan front shaft was a 1310 IIRCC.
 
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