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Diff locks.

ADVAW8S

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Hi Dave
My method was as you have suggested and worked well. The problem occurred when trying the reverse sequence. The front diff lock would not disengage. I then went through the sequence again only this time neither diff lock would disengage even though center diff did disengage. I didn’t want to try driving at 40 MPH whereby they should automatically disengage without further advice.
Did the front and rear not disengage when you unlocked the center diff?
 

rovie

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Decided to take mine off road this evening in order to test out the diff locks on a dry grass surface. Engaging centre diff in both high and low, no problem. Engaging front / rear locks a bit fiddly but got there in the end. Managed to disengage from diff but warning lights for both diff's went red and would not extinguish. Turned off engine but no resolve. Checked the status panel only to see a series of faults including: Hill Hold Control malfunction, Button of the rear diff lock is defective, Button of front diff lock is defective, Iugh usage of electric consumer, Transmission not detected, Reduced vehicle stability - ESC.
Parked up and check again in the morning. If no better, a call to the dealer.
This morning, that's done. The warning messages are gone. Make sure that the center differential is unlocked. Then the other two are as well. It was the same for me. If you try it again, it will work.
 

Tom D

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So was the diff actually stuck on or did the car just think it was?
 

rovie

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So was the diff actually stuck on or did the car just think it was?
I can't say that. In the morning, the red warning light Rear Diff. In the evening, no more warning. I had switched off the centre differential, so the rear and front differentials should also be switched off. In the evening, I switched them on again one after the other (centre, rear, front). I then switched off the front and rear with the switches. The LEDs flashed and the locks were probably off. However, the LEDs did not go out after driving 30 metres, but only after I switched off the centre differential lock and drove another 10 metres.
 

Cheshire cat

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Did the front and rear not disengage when you unlocked the center diff?
Certainly didn’t show as disengaged. Tell tale on panel behind steering wheel turned red for front / rear diff locks.
 

DCPU

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Checked the status panel only to see a series of faults including: Hill Hold Control malfunction, Button of the rear diff lock is defective, Button of front diff lock is defective, Iugh usage of electric consumer, Transmission not detected, Reduced vehicle stability - ESC.
Parked up and check again in the morning. If no better, a call to the dealer.
Good luck, that's quite a range of messages. 😞

I noticed with the Harry's Garage/Farm video, the repeated pressing of the diff switch and wondered if Ineos have introduced a confusion mode with a latching/unlatching switch. I wonder what happens when the switch is cycled several times without the time/movement of the vehicle to allow the mechanicals to cycle?

Why wouldn't it be better to just have a big rocker switch were visually it's so much easier to see whether it's on or off?
 

rovie

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Certainly didn’t show as disengaged. Tell tale on panel behind steering wheel turned red for front / rear diff locks.
Was everything ok again this morning, as I expected?
 
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rovie

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Just checked and everything back to normal. As Andrew had suggested and as was my plan, I will keep on repeating this process until second nature and no warning lights.
Yes, as already said somewhere, move every now and then.
 
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DCPU

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I'd like to know what this full message was, and what was triggering it?

IMG_20230530_082640.jpg
 

DenisM

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Well, that's a casuality, I tested everything on a short track in Austria today: Here we go (navigation app) did send me through the shortest road, shortcut, about 200m up in the woods, no car had passed there in years, not useful, there is an asphalt road around it, slightly longer.
And there was a trunk of several meters, thickness of my leg, or thickness of the forearm of @Tazzieman, more or less parallel to the track and other branches and mud. Ideal situation to test the stuff.

Central diff lock in high was hard but quite OK to engage. I had to move the car several times to engage the "low" position, a meter or two backwards and forward again, and trying to engage again, indeed in neutral position.

I didn’t succeed to pass the obstacle. moved somme smaller pieces of wood. I then engaged rear diff, it took also some moving of the car, but it got engaged. Still no succes. I engaged the front diff lock, quite easily (beginner's luck?). And succeeded in moving two meters forward. Nice. But I gave up. Testing the diff locks was OK for me, and the time I would loose moving some smaller wooden trunks was not worth the effort.

Then in rear, trying to disengage the front and rear diff locks, I managed to damage one of my rear lights, damned ...
View attachment 7813765
It took quite some time before all the diff lock lights went out after disengaging, a minute or so (didn't chronometer).

Perhaps I should pass my driving licence again, because yesterday I didn't damage my roof ... almost not:
View attachment 7813766
Disappointed, yes for the damage, but the experience was ok. I have also a small but long scratch from yesterday crossing another vehicle in the forest in Austria. This I don't mind, will not be the last.
Jean, make sure no moisture can get into the tail light enclosure. Water finds its way via capillary action inside the wire between copper and insulation to the various switches/ecu's and the result can be $$$. It's a known issue with the latest wiring looms... advice from auto-electrician who is busy repairing tradie work utes ( including Amarok /toyota /Vito vans) where they get broken on building sites/backing in to walls on deliveries etc but as long as the light works they're slack in getting it fixed... until new computer boards are required. Not an urban myth!
 

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Jean Mercier

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Jean, make sure no moisture can get into the tail light enclosure. Water finds its way via capillary action inside the wire between copper and insulation to the various switches/ecu's and the result can be $$$. It's a known issue with the latest wiring looms... advice from auto-electrician who is busy repairing tradie work utes ( including Amarok /toyota /Vito vans) where they get broken on building sites/backing in to walls on deliveries etc but as long as the light works they're slack in getting it fixed... until new computer boards are required. Not an urban myth!
I know that very well, but thanks for warning me. I had very dry days since that incident but always have duct tape in the car for kidnapping ... no ... for emergency repairs :).
Am home now and will try to repair it decently tomorrow. And if it rains, I'll take out the duct tape :cry:
 

Eric

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I know that very well, but thanks for warning me. I had very dry days since that incident but always have duct tape in the car for kidnapping ... no ... for emergency repairs :).
Am home now and will try to repair it decently tomorrow. And if it rains, I'll take out the duct tape :cry:
Now althoughs PT02s that are going to be crushed would make a good source of spares!
 
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bakepl

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I know that very well, but thanks for warning me. I had very dry days since that incident but always have duct tape in the car for kidnapping ... no ... for emergency repairs :).
Am home now and will try to repair it decently tomorrow. And if it rains, I'll take out the duct tape :cry:
Sorry to see the damage Jean, would you mind letting us know how long it takes to replace the tail light from ordering? Be interesting if Ineos can walk the walk... cheers
 
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