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Front drive shaft broken

Dokatd

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My front shaft failed at 7,000mi give or take with the Eibach springs installed. The boot at the transfer case failed and spit all the grease out. This was noted by a bit of a harmonic while driving at higher speeds. The harmonic changed over the course of about 100mi or so. Just coincidence I happened to get some grease on my hand while looking at something else and shined a flash light up at the joint. The boot failed significantly and left bits and pieces floating around in the front and back of the joint. As well, without enough grease the joint started to prematurely wear and is fairly loose now.

I was and still will look at other shaft options like a Double Double Cardan and have done this on rovers in the past. But for now I just replaced the joint itself. Currently Agile Off-road offers a replacement joint that is effectively identical to the factory joint. If you pay attention you will find that this joint is very common and conversion adapters for standard Ujoints are a dime a dozen in the off-road world.

Anyways, this allows you to salvage the shaft and just replace the joint. Agiles kit is about $185. This includes everything you need. I would buy at least one kit and keep it in your truck as a spare regardless of if you lift the truck or not. Install is easy enough if you have the right tools. The back half of the stock joint is crimped on, so that's a bit of a road block if you are on the side of the road, but if you have a grinder you can cut the dome off the back to access the clip. You will be tossing the cap anyways. As well I used my press to remove the joint but you can do it with a decent hammer and a bit of frustration.

Having issue uploading a couple other pics, but you get the idea. And the kit comes with very good instructions if you haven't done one of these before.
 

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CrazyOldMan

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My front shaft failed at 7,000mi give or take with the Eibach springs installed. The boot at the transfer case failed and spit all the grease out. This was noted by a bit of a harmonic while driving at higher speeds. The harmonic changed over the course of about 100mi or so. Just coincidence I happened to get some grease on my hand while looking at something else and shined a flash light up at the joint. The boot failed significantly and left bits and pieces floating around in the front and back of the joint. As well, without enough grease the joint started to prematurely wear and is fairly loose now.

I was and still will look at other shaft options like a Double Double Cardan and have done this on rovers in the past. But for now I just replaced the joint itself. Currently Agile Off-road offers a replacement joint that is effectively identical to the factory joint. If you pay attention you will find that this joint is very common and conversion adapters for standard Ujoints are a dime a dozen in the off-road world.

Anyways, this allows you to salvage the shaft and just replace the joint. Agiles kit is about $185. This includes everything you need. I would buy at least one kit and keep it in your truck as a spare regardless of if you lift the truck or not. Install is easy enough if you have the right tools. The back half of the stock joint is crimped on, so that's a bit of a road block if you are on the side of the road, but if you have a grinder you can cut the dome off the back to access the clip. You will be tossing the cap anyways. As well I used my press to remove the joint but you can do it with a decent hammer and a bit of frustration.

Having issue uploading a couple other pics, but you get the idea. And the kit comes with very good instructions if you haven't done one of these before.
Sorry that happened - good to know about the Agile kit and the pictures were helpful- thanks for doing that
 

Dokatd

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Can you pry that back cover off, or does it 100% require a grinder?
If you truly hated yourself then yes. If I was left without a cut off wheel I would likely just use maybe a claw hammer or similar to hack at the back to open it up. That's assuming I'm on a trail or something. But once you change to the serviceable version you don't have to worry about it anymore.

A hack saw could pull it off too.

So one could preemptively replace their front joints so trail repairs are easier.

The new joints come with new hardware that changes from a torx drive to a hex. So with your first change you would need to have the torx on you.
 

C-Mack

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Any noticeable driveshaft vibrations after the repair? Bad enough having it fail only then needing to go get the driveshaft rebalanced would just add to the frustration. At least it was a DIY fix so good job!
 

Dokatd

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Any noticeable driveshaft vibrations after the repair? Bad enough having it fail only then needing to go get the driveshaft rebalanced would just add to the frustration. At least it was a DIY fix so good job!
No, to my knowledge these drive shafts are balanced without joints. The Joints are assumed to be balanced by nature of their design.

Truck is smooth as silk again.
 

Dokatd

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@Dokatd used this - he mentions it up top. I hadn’t even heard of it until he mentioned it

That's it! I just happened upon it myself. It's a good stop gap for me. I think I have an ok final solution I will work on though. I won't be using this truck as a serious rock crawling truck so I don't need to go to crazy. I have other trucks for that.
 
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I've got ~4k miles on the replacement Rzeppa joint. Inspected it again last week when I did my 4th oil changed. Other than dirt/grime, the rubber looks as good as it did when new. The shaft/joint clearance on the TC end still makes me cringe a little. (2.5" lift springs). I also have a brand new front driveshaft as a onboard spare.
 

Shroomy

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I've got ~4k miles on the replacement Rzeppa joint. Inspected it again last week when I did my 4th oil changed. Other than dirt/grime, the rubber looks as good as it did when new. The shaft/joint clearance on the TC end still makes me cringe a little. (2.5" lift springs). I also have a brand new front driveshaft as a onboard spare.
+1 here I swapped them out with the Terraflex Rzeppa joints a while back. I now have over 3,000 miles on them, and just got done doing a 6hr drive pulling my camper at speeds anywhere from 70mph-85mph "Yes in Texas we have 85mph speed limits" I also keep a brand new front driveshaft as a just-n-case if traveling more than 3-4hrs from home. @Dokatd did you by chance have 4wparts install your Eibach lift?
 

CrazyOldMan

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+1 here I swapped them out with the Terraflex Rzeppa joints a while back. I now have over 3,000 miles on them, and just got done doing a 6hr drive pulling my camper at speeds anywhere from 70mph-85mph "Yes in Texas we have 85mph speed limits" I also keep a brand new front driveshaft as a just-n-case if traveling more than 3-4hrs from home. @Dokatd did you by chance have 4wparts install your Eibach lift?
@bamanuke and @Shroomy - so you both have the Terraflex Rzeppa high angle joint? Do you both have the Eibach lift?
 
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Last edited:
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Has anyone tried dropping the transfer case mount slightly to improve the driveshaft angles? I haven't looked to see if it is even possible but I do remember doing this to a a jeep of mine back in the mid 1980's.
 

Dokatd

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+1 here I swapped them out with the Terraflex Rzeppa joints a while back. I now have over 3,000 miles on them, and just got done doing a 6hr drive pulling my camper at speeds anywhere from 70mph-85mph "Yes in Texas we have 85mph speed limits" I also keep a brand new front driveshaft as a just-n-case if traveling more than 3-4hrs from home. @Dokatd did you by chance have 4wparts install your Eibach lift?
I installed the lift myself. I used a spring compressor on the rear but not on the front since it had plenty of room. Not sure if the boot was damaged during the lift or not. The boot failure was catastrophic though, not just a tear or split.
Am I correct in understanding that it is the same CV Joint as used on a Wrangler JK? If so then there are many vendors of the same replacement kit and you can save a few dollars by shopping around.

EDIT: Actually it looks like it is the one for the JL and not the JK. Can anyone clarify.


I was not planning to shed too much light on the joint's availability outside of a Grenadier parts seller. I really do prefer to support these guys if possible.

That said, the correct joint is for a jeep JL/JT Terraflex kit 1745000. That includes everything you need minus a T45 torx bit to remove the factory hardware.
 
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And where did you get the driveshaft from? Do you already have it setup with replacement CVs?
can't speak for "Shroomy" but I got my replacement from my dealer, Regal in ATL. Took about 3 weeks to get it in. I did not change the CV on the new shaft. I did run the new shaft for about 3 weeks until I could get the terraflex installed. The transfer case end is the only one, at least on my Gren ,that has the clearance issue, so no need to replace both.. New front driveshaft and bolts were $1062.00. One thing that may be of interest, I removed the failed driveshaft myself, shipped the vehicle to the dealer(thought that I had multiple issues) and they installed the new DS. Once the new CV came in, I went to replace the new driveshaft with the rebuilt one and sheered off one of the bolts securing it. All the bolts felt like they would sheer, so I believe the new bolts have a different threadlocker than the factory installed ones. It appears that the threadlocker on the new bolts is more like Red locktite and required a torch to loosen for removal. The originals came out pretty easy. A failure on the trail with the new bolts would have left me dead in the water as I would have had no way to heat them up.
 

Shroomy

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And where did you get the driveshaft from? Do you already have it setup with replacement CVs?
I ordered it from my Ineos Dealer here in Plano. and no with the High Angle CV's on the spare factory shaft. I only have the Terraflex High Angle CV's on the one that is installed on the Grenade currently; as I didn't even know if this would work as of 4 mths ago. But happy to say it does so far knock-on-wood. For those wanting to know the part # I used was Terraflex part# 1745000 which I believe is made for the Jeep JL but works just fine as of know for a replacement on the stock Grenadier FDS.
 
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