Front drive shaft broken

[Mountain4x4]

2k for a complete shaft with cardans, vs 164.00. Seems to me its worth a shot with the High Angle CV for now.

 

[LeeroyJ]

A real vote of confidence when a manufacturer states out in the open their own plausible deniability. Do we need anymore evidence that big lifts on a Grenadier should be avoided at this stage until more engineering is done to the vehicle?

The thing is in other vehicles (like Jeeps) a 2.5" lift is a tiny lift.

 

[bamanuke]

here ya go
From what we have seen, there is an inherent design issue on the Ineos, as there have been driveshaft failures with the stock suspension. We have added notes to our instructions that specify not to loosen the track bar or control arms, and to not pull down on the axle when trying to remove the OE springs or to install the new Eibach Pro Lift springs. Failure to follow the instructions can possibly pinch or bind the boot causing a failure. In the instructions we specify to use a spring compressor to remove the springs, as well as use the spring compressor to install the lift springs. This is the method we use here and we have yet to see a failure on any of the vehicles we have tested here.

 

[Commodore]

I'm running a Mickey Thompson 255/85/r17 (34 x 10) on stock steel wheels and stock suspension without rub. I ran the IG from Lake city to American Basin last weekend without issue on this setup.

I’m looking at installing these today. Any issues with the gearing?

 

[Commodore]

Seems to be fine. I really don't notice much difference. Spedo is actually closer to correct and it uses 8th on the freeway no problem.

That is the information that I'm looking for. Thank you!

 

[undert0e]

I’m looking at installing these today. Any issues with the gearing?

nope

 

[300chris]

255/85/17 are a fantastic combo with this truck. Running the Eibach 2.5”/1.7”
About 3000 miles on this set-up so far. Obviously will keep an eye on the CV joints, but no isisues this far (OWL did the install and disconnected the driveline prior to install). Most miles are lower speed (mostly off-road), so heat is not an issue. Have stuffed the suspension multiple times, and there is never any contact with the wheel wells.

 

[Migs]

Just as FYI:
I'm putting on the TeraFlex Rzeppa High Angle CV joints today/tomorrow morning. I'm replacing the two "middle" CV joints (one on each driveshaft where they meet the transfer case), as those had the most extreme angles. I'll be doing some highway driving and offroading this weekend (traveling about 70 miles each way on highway (70-80 mph)) with these new CV joints, so can reply if there are any issues.

Side note: I talked with John Brindell (from Agile Offroad) today, who was super nice and helpful. He's had the same Rzeppa High Angle CV on his Grenadier for over a thousand miles, of both highway driving and pretty rough (not extreme) offroading where he said he really stretched out the suspension. He said his are holding up great, he has had no issues.

 

[C-Mack]

Just as FYI:
I'm putting on the TeraFlex Rzeppa High Angle CV joints today/tomorrow morning. I'm replacing the two "middle" CV joints (one on each driveshaft where they meet the transfer case), as those had the most extreme angles. I'll be doing some highway driving and offroading this weekend (traveling about 70 miles each way on highway (70-80 mph)) with these new CV joints, so can reply if there are any issues.

Side note: I talked with John Brindell (from Agile Offroad) today, who was super nice and helpful. He's had the same Rzeppa High Angle CV on his Grenadier for over a thousand miles, of both highway driving and pretty rough (not extreme) offroading where he said he really stretched out the suspension. He said his are holding up great, he has had no issues.

Let us know if there is any driveshaft droning or vibrations after you switch them out especially at highway speeds. I would assume each driveshaft is balanced as a complete assembly with both stock joints in place and I’m curious if switching out a joint is enough to take it out of balance… hopefully not. (Just a thought but maybe put witness marks on your old joints and shafts before you take them apart in case you have to put them back in and maintain their relationship to each other for balance purposes)

 

[Migs]

Let us know if there is any driveshaft droning or vibrations after you switch them out especially at highway speeds. I would assume each driveshaft is balanced as a complete assembly with both stock joints in place and I’m curious if switching out a joint is enough to take it out of balance… hopefully not. (Just a thought but maybe put witness marks on your old joints and shafts before you take them apart in case you have to put them back in and maintain their relationship to each other for balance purposes)

Drove it on highway (75mph) with new cvs. It actually got rid of a slight harmonic/vibration i had between 65 & 70 mph that started after the bigger eibach springs were put on. So in an initial test drive, its smooth as butta'
Will follow up if anything changes after saturdays trail runs.

 

[Commodore]

I just past 5000 miles since my Eibach Pro 2.5" Lift. with approximately 75 miles of light trails. (Just over 14,000 total miles) So far I have no issues with the CVs. - Probably because I carry two spares and the tools necessary to fix if needed.

View attachment 7877069
3500ish mile trip I just finished.
View attachment 7877067
View attachment 7877068

I sure hope that continues to work well but it looks like it's just a matter of time before it lets go.

 

[Dokatd]

My front shaft failed at 7,000mi give or take with the Eibach springs installed. The boot at the transfer case failed and spit all the grease out. This was noted by a bit of a harmonic while driving at higher speeds. The harmonic changed over the course of about 100mi or so. Just coincidence I happened to get some grease on my hand while looking at something else and shined a flash light up at the joint. The boot failed significantly and left bits and pieces floating around in the front and back of the joint. As well, without enough grease the joint started to prematurely wear and is fairly loose now.

I was and still will look at other shaft options like a Double Double Cardan and have done this on rovers in the past. But for now I just replaced the joint itself. Currently Agile Off-road offers a replacement joint that is effectively identical to the factory joint. If you pay attention you will find that this joint is very common and conversion adapters for standard Ujoints are a dime a dozen in the off-road world.

Anyways, this allows you to salvage the shaft and just replace the joint. Agiles kit is about $185. This includes everything you need. I would buy at least one kit and keep it in your truck as a spare regardless of if you lift the truck or not. Install is easy enough if you have the right tools. The back half of the stock joint is crimped on, so that's a bit of a road block if you are on the side of the road, but if you have a grinder you can cut the dome off the back to access the clip. You will be tossing the cap anyways. As well I used my press to remove the joint but you can do it with a decent hammer and a bit of frustration.

Having issue uploading a couple other pics, but you get the idea. And the kit comes with very good instructions if you haven't done one of these before.

 

[Tom109]

Can you pry that back cover off, or does it 100% require a grinder?

 

[CrazyOldMan]

My front shaft failed at 7,000mi give or take with the Eibach springs installed. The boot at the transfer case failed and spit all the grease out. This was noted by a bit of a harmonic while driving at higher speeds. The harmonic changed over the course of about 100mi or so. Just coincidence I happened to get some grease on my hand while looking at something else and shined a flash light up at the joint. The boot failed significantly and left bits and pieces floating around in the front and back of the joint. As well, without enough grease the joint started to prematurely wear and is fairly loose now.

I was and still will look at other shaft options like a Double Double Cardan and have done this on rovers in the past. But for now I just replaced the joint itself. Currently Agile Off-road offers a replacement joint that is effectively identical to the factory joint. If you pay attention you will find that this joint is very common and conversion adapters for standard Ujoints are a dime a dozen in the off-road world.

Anyways, this allows you to salvage the shaft and just replace the joint. Agiles kit is about $185. This includes everything you need. I would buy at least one kit and keep it in your truck as a spare regardless of if you lift the truck or not. Install is easy enough if you have the right tools. The back half of the stock joint is crimped on, so that's a bit of a road block if you are on the side of the road, but if you have a grinder you can cut the dome off the back to access the clip. You will be tossing the cap anyways. As well I used my press to remove the joint but you can do it with a decent hammer and a bit of frustration.

Having issue uploading a couple other pics, but you get the idea. And the kit comes with very good instructions if you haven't done one of these before.

Sorry that happened - good to know about the Agile kit and the pictures were helpful- thanks for doing that

 

[Dokatd]

Can you pry that back cover off, or does it 100% require a grinder?

If you truly hated yourself then yes. If I was left without a cut off wheel I would likely just use maybe a claw hammer or similar to hack at the back to open it up. That's assuming I'm on a trail or something. But once you change to the serviceable version you don't have to worry about it anymore.

A hack saw could pull it off too.

So one could preemptively replace their front joints so trail repairs are easier.

The new joints come with new hardware that changes from a torx drive to a hex. So with your first change you would need to have the torx on you.

 

[C-Mack]

Any noticeable driveshaft vibrations after the repair? Bad enough having it fail only then needing to go get the driveshaft rebalanced would just add to the frustration. At least it was a DIY fix so good job!

 

[Dokatd]

Any noticeable driveshaft vibrations after the repair? Bad enough having it fail only then needing to go get the driveshaft rebalanced would just add to the frustration. At least it was a DIY fix so good job!

No, to my knowledge these drive shafts are balanced without joints. The Joints are assumed to be balanced by nature of their design.

Truck is smooth as silk again.

 

[DrahthHunter]

No, to my knowledge these drive shafts are balanced without joints. The Joints are assumed to be balanced by nature of their design.

Truck is smooth as silk again.

What did you replace it with? Did I Miss that

 

[CrazyOldMan]

What did you replace it with? Did I Miss that

@Dokatd used this - he mentions it up top. I hadn’t even heard of it until he mentioned it

Replacement Parts Archives - Agile Offroad

agileoffroad.com

 

[Dokatd]

@Dokatd used this - he mentions it up top. I hadn’t even heard of it until he mentioned it

Replacement Parts Archives - Agile Offroad

agileoffroad.com

That's it! I just happened upon it myself. It's a good stop gap for me. I think I have an ok final solution I will work on though. I won't be using this truck as a serious rock crawling truck so I don't need to go to crazy. I have other trucks for that.