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Thanks I thought I saw something a while back.@Dokatd used this - he mentions it up top. I hadn’t even heard of it until he mentioned it
Ineos Grenadier » Agile Offroad
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+1 here I swapped them out with the Terraflex Rzeppa joints a while back. I now have over 3,000 miles on them, and just got done doing a 6hr drive pulling my camper at speeds anywhere from 70mph-85mph "Yes in Texas we have 85mph speed limits" I also keep a brand new front driveshaft as a just-n-case if traveling more than 3-4hrs from home. @Dokatd did you by chance have 4wparts install your Eibach lift?
2018 up, JT ,I thought. The one offered for the JK will not work.
I installed the lift myself. I used a spring compressor on the rear but not on the front since it had plenty of room. Not sure if the boot was damaged during the lift or not. The boot failure was catastrophic though, not just a tear or split.
And where did you get the driveshaft from? Do you already have it setup with replacement CVs?
can't speak for "Shroomy" but I got my replacement from my dealer, Regal in ATL. Took about 3 weeks to get it in. I did not change the CV on the new shaft. I did run the new shaft for about 3 weeks until I could get the terraflex installed. The transfer case end is the only one, at least on my Gren ,that has the clearance issue, so no need to replace both.. New front driveshaft and bolts were $1062.00. One thing that may be of interest, I removed the failed driveshaft myself, shipped the vehicle to the dealer(thought that I had multiple issues) and they installed the new DS. Once the new CV came in, I went to replace the new driveshaft with the rebuilt one and sheered off one of the bolts securing it. All the bolts felt like they would sheer, so I believe the new bolts have a different threadlocker than the factory installed ones. It appears that the threadlocker on the new bolts is more like Red locktite and required a torch to loosen for removal. The originals came out pretty easy. A failure on the trail with the new bolts would have left me dead in the water as I would have had no way to heat them up.
I ordered it from my Ineos Dealer here in Plano. and no with the High Angle CV's on the spare factory shaft. I only have the Terraflex High Angle CV's on the one that is installed on the Grenade currently; as I didn't even know if this would work as of 4 mths ago. But happy to say it does so far knock-on-wood. For those wanting to know the part # I used was Terraflex part# 1745000 which I believe is made for the Jeep JL but works just fine as of know for a replacement on the stock Grenadier FDS.
I don't think that they are inherently better, but they aren't worse, and are a lot more inexpensive than an OEM entire driveshaft
I keep hoping for a simple solution to the crappy front driveshaft angles because I want to at least level the front of the truck but won’t do it until a real solution is on offer.
Question is how many people would buy and at what price point. There are several real options but they vary wildly in price and leg work.
The best solution is to cut and turn the front axle but that isn’t something that I want to deal with. I’m hoping that a combination of dropping the transfer case slightly and a double DC driveshaft might prove to be a workable bolt on solution.
Yes, that's a solution for sure and could be reasonable on a core exchange. But there are a couple other options that would be vastly cheaper and far less invasive.
Hate going down rabbit holes with no rabbit at the end.
It is an official problem for me. It is a serious enough limitation that I am not even putting a front level shim on the front springs. I would like to lift the rear about 1.5” and the front about 2.5” but no way that is going to happen with that front driveshaft angle.Yes, that's a solution for sure and could be reasonable on a core exchange. But there are a couple other options that would be vastly cheaper and far less invasive.
For some context I used to build custom axles. I actually hand built the first and only Ford 9" Dana 60 Rover front axle. And I used to build 31 spline Ford 9" Rover axles.
So needless to say I have thoughts on how to solve this problem. But I'd hate to create a solution that is ludicrous for everyone else. I'd rather see something come out that helps stock and lifted truck owners alike.
So are we officially calling this a problem that needs a solution? I know it is for me, but I feel the steering sucks and everyone else says it fine.
Ok, I thought I understood the problem and the relationship of the T-case and differential but your statement seems counter to that understanding. Granted, I learned everything I know from this forum and crawling under my IG every thousand miles to look at the CVs.
