Front diff failure

MarkgreSC said:

Was under the truck yesterday and my front diff is "seeping" at the yoke seal at leading side of front prop shaft. There was enough to form drips that I had to wipe off. Anyone else have that going on? Hard to see in the pic, but concerning with only 3k miles. I'm assuming that the driveline vibration at 2000 rpm is beginning to take out that seal. Don't know how the design got through all that testing without caring about the known vibration at 2000 rpm anytime under load. I live in the mountains and every time I go somewhere, seems like it's at that rpm. LOL

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Yes my front diff seal is weeping and when I asked a couple of months back about changing it I was told a special tool was required to do this and it was not available.

Logsplitter said:

Yes my front diff seal is weeping and when I asked a couple of months back about changing it I was told a special tool was required to do this and it was not available. View attachment 7856105

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Is your Grenny still in South Africa? I thought Carrero axles were supposed to be as common in your hemisphere as Dana is to North America. Surprised they don’t have the tool to work on Carrero, but better to have it serviced at your local dealer anyway.

dreamalaska said:

Is your Grenny still in South Africa? I thought Carrero axles were supposed to be as common in your hemisphere as Dana is to North America.

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It’s still in South Africa about to be loaded in a container in the next couple of days ready for shipping back to Rotterdam.

Logsplitter said:

Yes my front diff seal is weeping and when I asked a couple of months back about changing it I was told a special tool was required to do this and it was not available. View attachment 7856105

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Thanks for the feedback. If oil can get out, water can probably get in. I put it on my list to have addressed next time in shop. Dealer just had mine for two months with a list of initial delivery problems, including AC not working and I wanted to enjoy it for another few weeks before losing it again. Looks like you have put yours through some more exercise than I have had an opportunity for, any other things I should keep an eye on once I start beating on it?

MarkgreSC said:

Thanks for the feedback. If oil can get out, water can probably get in. I put it on my list to have addressed next time in shop. Dealer just had mine for two months with a list of initial delivery problems, including AC not working and I wanted to enjoy it for another few weeks before losing it again. Looks like you have put yours through some more exercise than I have had an opportunity for, any other things I should keep an eye on once I start beating on it?

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Other than the items mentioned on my travel thread then no. Just transfer box, Bowden cable fixings and auxillary radiator mountings behind front bumper. I will be putting underbody protection on though. I will wait and check out the awaited Ineos offering before making a decision on which brand to use.

Logsplitter said:

Other than the items mentioned on my travel thread then no. Just transfer box, Bowden cable fixings and auxillary radiator mountings behind front bumper. I will be putting underbody protection on though. I will wait and check out the awaited Ineos offering before making a decision on which brand to use.

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Hi good to see you at the week end the special tool is probably a circular drift to seat the seal squarely like LR front hub oil seals could gt one turned up if we knew the specs.

MarkgreSC said:

Thanks for the feedback. If oil can get out, water can probably get in. I put it on my list to have addressed next time in shop. Dealer just had mine for two months with a list of initial delivery problems, including AC not working and I wanted to enjoy it for another few weeks before losing it again. Looks like you have put yours through some more exercise than I have had an opportunity for, any other things I should keep an eye on once I start beating on it?

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Wow, 2 months. What caused them to have your vehicle for so long?

Jackattack13 said:

Wow, 2 months. What caused them to have your vehicle for so long?

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No they haven't had my vehicle that long The sweating seal was identified in Windhoek and I’ve done thousands of km since then and no dripping oil. I’ve been home a month awaiting shipping and in the meanwhile asked Ineos Cape Town if they could service and check over. Hopefully it will be containerised and loaded for shipping in the next few days

Jackattack13 said:

Wow, 2 months. What caused them to have your vehicle for so long?

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Parts / needed item availability is what I was told.

MarkgreSC said:

Parts / needed item availability is what I was told.

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That's ridiculous. Out of curiosity, what part are they having a hard time getting?

Jackattack13 said:

That's ridiculous. Out of curiosity, what part are they having a hard time getting?

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I’d like to know to

Jackattack13 said:

Wow, 2 months. What caused them to have your vehicle for so long?

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Finally got my IG back after they changed the axle. I asked the whether they did a new wheel alignment and they said yes. Turns out they didn't. The markings on the adjustments hadn't moved and driving in a straight light now means the steering wheel is at 45deg. Took it straight back and they did the alignment as I originally asked. **sigh**

Jackattack13 said:

That's ridiculous. Out of curiosity, what part are they having a hard time getting?

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Keep in mind ... you asked !! I had sorta of a laundry list of items from initial delivery of the vehicle. (Almost all of my issues were INEOS issues, the dealer guys have been excellent, gave me a loaner, communicated, etc.) I think the driver door key cylinder and parking sensor module were the main delays.

The Key I test drove the vehicle with would not open door lock after I filled out the check and they installed the temp tag, so 30 min after purchase, one key fob was faulty, temporarily locked me out of the car the 2nd day and set off alarms in shopping lot parking lot.

"speed clicking alert drives me bat shit crazy" which I was told could be cut off, didn't know it was every time I started car vs once in preferences, Very Aggregating: speed alert buzzing and speed sign bouncing w speedometer reading 2mph below travel speed. (Very distracting) Also - indicates wrong speed limit often, further worsening the constant aggravation & issue
Can the speed be calibrated so it is at least accurate to real speed hence allowing you to travel the speed limit without the “clicking”

Front parking alert going off most times when you stop vehicle with nothing impeded view. Seems to light up same sensor light over and over. Two week in, it had decided it’s going to “click” alert (similar to the speed alert) each time you make a 90 degree turn? Only did this for 2-3 days. Many alert(s) seem random and malfunctioning most times. This yellow light and red message on gauge was blinking for entire trip one morning. Clear outside, windshield clean, light traffic on highway. Seems to me major issues in this vehicle with wiring or software. This random malfunctioning is the biggest concern as every day seems to bring different issue or alert. (Trans alert, Airbag alert, Tire PSI random issues, etc.)

Driveline vibrates at 2k rpm under load, release gas pedal and smooths out (if it was old truck I would say it feels like worn u-joint or yoke) . This is very prevalent in my mountain area as 2k rpm is 70-73 so basically highway speed for entire state. Something in driveline is loose or out of balance. So pronounced of change when you let off accelerator , has to be something wrong. (Guess now I know, or at least think its front prop shaft balance or aligning as the yoke seal is already seeping)

AC does not blow cold, even on full re-circulation Hisssss when starting car under dash when AC button lit. Substantial hiss, Like air escaping tire. Note: I don’t believe the AC has worked at all, just was hard to tell for sure until we had a few warmer days.

Tire psi yellow difference L /R. Happy with setting on right, not on left at same PSI on left. Someone on forum said to adjust air psi and reset. After seven (7) resets, it looks like it has taken the new target pressures. Even then the 7 times having to reset does not make any sense. Still alerts "over pressure" warning with everything normal.

I had my Grenadier in to Owl Vans in Mesa, Arizona today for the Eibach lift kit installation and they were also kind enough to install the DIY diff breather kit using the McMaster-Carr parts from the other thread. @Tom109 Deserves an attaboy for coming up with that list!

Anyway, the gent who worked on my Grenadier told me that my front diff input shaft seal was ever-so-slightly leaking. Not enough to drip, but it was damp enough to wipe. I'm hoping that the diff breather kit might somehow reduce the pressure and stop the weeping. If not, I'll be going in to Warner Ineos for another service in a few months and will get it looked at then.

Jackattack13 said:

I am starting the think they have no warehouse of spares. I have been waiting on a new seat back for almost 2 months. And it took 2 weeks to get a module. A battery? That should be at every service center.

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The PDC (Parts DC) is in South Carolina as I understand it. From what I have heard the dealers have been discouraged from stocking up on parts inventory as they are having to pull parts directly from the assembly line because the network is not really established. As a result - many of the major parts have to come from the plant, except for typical items - filters, etc. There also seem to be dealers with different access to the parts inventory - for example Sewell in Dallas can see all of the available parts inventory in the US and tell you exactly what is in stock, but Mossy in Houston can’t and they told me they have to put in a parts request to even see if something is available. As far as the batteries - in the US we have very strict import rules on batteries and that is why all of the European spec batteries are very hard to get and expensive in the states. Same thing for Mercedes, BMW, etc. I have not tried yet, but I will bet that you can likely source a battery through one of the European car dealers at likely a better price, but still a lot more than a typical US battery. You want to stay with the European batteries as they are far better than the junk we get in the states, but typically you have to fill them as they are not shipped to the US with acid in them. Simply put - US batteries almost always leak as well and not something you want in a battery that is mounted under the rear seat. The German spec batteries also last a lot longer 5-7 years vs 2-3 from the US batteries.

LWA55DAL said:

From what I have heard the dealers have been discouraged from stocking up on parts inventory as they are having to pull parts directly from the assembly line because the network is not really established. As a result - many of the major parts have to come from the plant, except for typical items - filters, etc. There also seem to be dealers with different access to the parts inventory - for example Sewell in Dallas can see all of the available parts inventory in the US and tell you exactly what is in stock, but Mossy in Houston can’t and they told me they have to put in a parts request to even see if something is available.

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What I said already in different posts here...

AWo

AWo said:

What I said already in different posts here...

AWo

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Not exactly, but my post was also not focused on the EU consumer and intended for the US consumer to understand the PDC in the US. Maybe INOES has PDC’s in the EU, but the EU also has a different process with dealers, etc. So - maybe next time you can share your knowledge of how parts are actually distributed in the EU, the network and the model for parts distribution…..

Mountain4x4 said:

Its low on oil because they were likely supposed to fill it at the dealership. When shipping cars they can come with less fluids for safety in case of fire on a ship or something. But regardless, checking fluid levels would have been on the check list for the dealer. And they will run for awhile on low oil....until they don't, I highly doubt the diff just failed. Its possible something was set up wrong, but I bet it was knuckleheads not filling the oil.

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It is crucial for the very first service after only 1,000 kms - both differentials are drained and replaced with an entirely different oil. The Grenadier service guys are all trained in this.

OzyGrenie said:

It is crucial for the very first service after only 1,000 kms - both differentials are drained and replaced with an entirely different oil. The Grenadier service guys are all trained in this.

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I am understanding you right that there is a diff oil change recommended after 1,000km?

parb said:

I am understanding you right that there is a diff oil change recommended after 1,000km?

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US maintenance schedule replace at 12k miles or 12 months per the owner manual if I am reading it correctly.