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In the back of my mind I wonder what was done to maintain these batteries whilst some vehicles were in 'batch and hold' for so long? Mine was built in January and soon to arrive. Were the batteries disconnected, kept on a maintenance charge, let go flat with constant discharge, replaced? Who knows.. just have to wonder eh.I haven't driven the vehicle for a weekso I checked the voltage between the charging post and the closest earth: 12.5V or ~70%
I connected a new Victron 15Amp smart charger ...took about 1 hr 50 mins to register the "green light" float status. I let it settle then checked the voltage again after 10 mins with two different multimeters. One registered 12.59V, the other 12.60V. ...say about 80%. I would have expected higher. I didn't have time to check the battery status on the main display.
Ok, your fridge is running off the starter battery as it supplies the 12V socket in the boot. If you aren't driving enough to recharge the starter each day, it starts to fall behind so each night you start with less & less capacity to run the fridge until eventually the starter gets so low in the morning it can't start the vehicle. The service battery would've been trickle charging the starter continuously across the Smartpass sensing it was low, but it's only designed to maintain a charged starter, it can't supply enough charge to keep up with the fridge load. I'd say it would've also lost ground overtime to the point where it was also depleted and wasn't able to assist the starter to turn the engine over. Short drives to the next camp doesn't work well when you're running a fridge.We been travelling with the Engel fridge running in tue boot for over three weeks now. Only other power consumption while camping was loading mobile devices from the sockets in feont of the back seats. We mainly stayed for one night per spot. Last night charge went down from 84% to only 75%. Temperatures at night time being between 5 and 15 degrees C all trip.
Agree it should've rested around 12.7-12.8V, maybe it lost 0.1V over the cable and connections to the starter, although I imagine it's fairly hefty cable.I haven't driven the vehicle for a weekso I checked the voltage between the charging post and the closest earth: 12.5V or ~70%
I connected a new Victron 15Amp smart charger ...took about 1 hr 50 mins to register the "green light" float status. I let it settle then checked the voltage again after 10 mins with two different multimeters. One registered 12.59V, the other 12.60V. ...say about 80%. I would have expected higher. I didn't have time to check the battery status on the main display.
Interesting on several (german) web article is written that EFB‘s should not charged in AGM Mode. Normal battery mode is the right one. Now I am confused what is right.. These EFBs have similar charging parameters to AGMs so should be charged at 14.4V.
Be interesting to see what the Victron would do now if connected to the service battery or what voltage the service battery is now sitting at.
Ok, your fridge is running off the starter battery as it supplies the 12V socket in the boot. If you aren't driving enough to recharge the starter each day, it starts to fall behind so each night you start with less & less capacity to run the fridge until eventually the starter gets so low in the morning it can't start the vehicle. The service battery would've been trickle charging the starter continuously across the Smartpass sensing it was low, but it's only designed to maintain a charged starter, it can't supply enough charge to keep up with the fridge load. I'd say it would've also lost ground overtime to the point where it was also depleted and wasn't able to assist the starter to turn the engine over. Short drives to the next camp doesn't work well when you're running a fridge.
So, it's better to run the fridge off the Smartpass load terminal not the boot socket
I'm not sure how well you should rely on the vehicles indication of SOC as being exactly accurate. How do they establish this? Is it simply via voltage or is there a shunt involved? Can it be reset? Noting that the battery when being tested is not in an open cell state so it's either charging or discharging and this will have some effect.Had a short drive this morning and my SOC was 79%. Connected my CTEK MS10 charger via a trailer socket charging point and left to charge all day. Charger indicated battery was fully charged, took the Greny for a drive and it showed SOC of 80% and after a few miles increased to 81%. I have an auxiliary battery, nothing connected to any sockets.
I’m starting to think the Greny SOC reading is either as accurate as some of the other sensors, or I now need to give the battery a float charge to exceed indicated 80% SOC.
I mentioned somewhere previously that the % readout would only be a rough guide and to basically ignore it and just watch the voltage. If the % display wasn't there owners wouldn't be fretting over SOC, you'd only see voltage as with most vehicles, the average punter knows if they see 11.9V something's not right but when it's displaying +12.0V all is good. There has to be some sort of shunt (likely a basic one) near the battery to show that % reading but they never do a good job of calculating charge or discharge, the peukert exponent and charge efficiency factor settings are mostly a shot in the dark so overtime the battery monitor starts to 'drift' and tell lies. To fix, you need to periodically charge the battery with a 240V smart charger to float to reset (recalibrate) to 100%, another reason to regularly charge the battery with a good charger. Battery monitors like the Victron BMVs can auto reset or be done manually but some cheaper/basic shunts will only have an auto reset and no user interface.I'm not sure how well you should rely on the vehicles indication of SOC as being exactly accurate. How do they establish this? Is it simply via voltage or is there a shunt involved? Can it be reset? Noting that the battery when being tested is not in an open cell state so it's either charging or discharging and this will have some effect.
The 'normal' battery mode on the Victron is 14.4V (bulk). This article talks about charging EFBs and AGMs, about half way down.Interesting on several (german) web article is written that EFB‘s should not charged in AGM Mode. Normal battery mode is the right one. Now I am confused what is right.
Not sure the trickle charging at 3 secs bursts could keep up with a fridge load overnight. I'd say it's really only designed to maintain a small (maybe 100-150mA, 3 - 4Ahrs/day) 'at rest' self-discharge on the starter when say the car sits unused for weeks at a time. The average 55L fridge would use around 20Ah overnight, so with losses ~24Ah needs to go back in.The Smartpass trickle charging the starter battery and supplying the fridge via the load terminal both have a 11.5v cutoff, so I can't see why one would be better than the other in terms of just the fridge load.
"Curiouser and curiouser"Agree it should've rested around 12.7-12.8V, maybe it lost 0.1V over the cable and connections to the starter, although I imagine it's fairly hefty cable.
Did you notice if the Victron auto selected 14.7V or 14.4V bulk charge or did you select. These EFBs have similar charging parameters to AGMs so should be charged at 14.4V.
Be interesting to see what the Victron would do now if connected to the service battery or what voltage the service battery is now sitting at.
SorryMark, the smartpass will work with a smart alternator if it's connected properly with it's red wire connected to 12 volts as this shows the device a smart alternator is utilised. The red wire of the D250SE is used in the same way to tell it that a smart alternator is being used. When in combination can charge up to 140amps which is impressive. See below images for smart alternator cable.
I use one of those for my campers lithium batteries. Good quality bit of kit.The 'normal' battery mode on the Victron is 14.4V (bulk). This article talks about charging EFBs and AGMs, about half way down.
It's why I've asked DenisM what mode the Victron selected.
Maybe you caught the service battery doing it's 3 second burst of trickle charging the starter, which would've been happening since the service battery's voltage is higher than the starter's.The reading between the charge post and the top of the radiator is most interesting
Ah! Thank you Mark...Maybe you caught the service battery doing it's 3 second burst of trickle charging the starter, which would've been happening since the service battery's voltage is higher than the starter's.
From 12.6V down to 12.38V overnight on the starter doesn't bode well in relation to parasitic loads while the vehicle is parked up. Have you got the Advanced alarm system?
I'd stick the charger back on for a good 8-10hrs and measure again. Maybe charge up the service battery directly first. That way you could check the battery % progress on the screen while charging it & then the starter to see what it's reading.
Shame they don't have an isolation switch like Mercedes have.View attachment 7821578I’ve just back in my Grenadier after 5days in a marina car park and my state of charge is 94%. That’s not too bad I think![]()
Do you recall what the level was when you parked it, and had you manually charged the battery beforehand?I’ve just back in my Grenadier after 5days in a marina car park and my state of charge is 94%. That’s not too bad I think![]()