(The battery and monitor thread )Car dead in the middle of the woods

[das mo]

Hi all.

Car is dead.

Battery was at 50% 2 hours back.
We now packed all together and car does not start.

Is there an Ineos support hotline I can call on a Sunday?

Thanks

 

[Logsplitter]

Do you recall what the level was when you parked it, and had you manually charged the battery beforehand?

No I don’t remember what the level was but always seems to be above 90%. After my drive home yesterday which is a 86 mile run it was sitting at 97% I have used a smart charger a few times since I got the vehicle and in fact i connected mine last night so that batteries are in good condition before shipping I think maintenance charging with the smart charger helps
By the way not a single error warning on the way home, sat mainly at 70mph and fully loaded

 

[Kruegerruda]

Sorry for asking again. I'm an auto-electrics layman and was hoping Ineos would bring a ready-made solution. But apparently rework is necessary if you do not want to stand in the forest without electricity:

- Better charge the secondary battery with the installation of a CTEK 250SE, bracket e.g. from BlackSheep.
- Run the consumers only from the secondary battery. This will probably require a new fuse box. Or is there another option?
- Second battery as a lithium battery
- And open question for me: does the CTEK 120 separate the second battery from the starter battery in the sense of an isolation relay?

Other solutions?

 

[MrMike]

Sorry for asking again. I'm an auto-electrics layman and was hoping Ineos would bring a ready-made solution. But apparently rework is necessary if you do not want to stand in the forest without electricity:

- Better charge the secondary battery with the installation of a CTEK 250SE, bracket e.g. from BlackSheep.
- Run the consumers only from the secondary battery. This will probably require a new fuse box. Or is there another option?
- Second battery as a lithium battery
- And open question for me: does the CTEK 120 separate the second battery from the starter battery in the sense of an isolation relay?

Other solutions?

From my understanding it does, BUT it also connects them if the start battery is low and this will not be good for your lithium Aux battery

 

[Kruegerruda]

So I change the CTEK 120 and build the CTEK 250 SE in, use only the CTEK 250. And the starter battery ist happy just to start the engine and nothing more. And in worst case I have a Powerbank to help the starter battery and start the engine without using the Lithium-Akku.

 

[Kruegerruda]

Using a fridge with the risk to empty the starter battery is complete nonsense...

 

[MrMike]

So I change the CTEK 120 and build the CTEK 250 SE in, use only the CTEK 250. And the starter battery ist happy just to start the engine and nothing more. And in worst case I have a Powerbank to help the starter battery and start the engine without using the Lithium-Akku.

I'm going to use Redarc BCDC50D. Known quantity for me. Battery isolation, solar compatible, reliable.

 

[bakepl]

Here's a good explanation from Ctek regarding which one to install... D250SE or Smartpass. Interesting Ineos selected the Smartpass but presume would have been a recommendation from Ctek. For my purpose I need the solar input and will add the 250SE (and gain all the advantages of both units rather than changing brand).

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Gz27SH79Oc

 

[AnD3rew]

I'm going to use Redarc BCDC50D. Known quantity for me. Battery isolation, solar compatible, reliable.

Redarc told me to add the BCDC to the Smartpass

 

[MrMike]

Redarc told me to add the BCDC to the Smartpass

Are you using a lithium auxiliary battery?

Redarc told me to add the BCDC to the Smartpass

Did they give an explanation why?

 

[AnD3rew]

Are you using a lithium auxiliary battery?

No, not yet, may in the future

Did they give an explanation why?

They basically said that it doesn’t have all rhe same functionality, but no were not that specific about it.

 

[MarkH]

Did they give an explanation why?

The Redarc BCDC50 more than doubles the charging amps over the 250SE and will simultaneously charge using solar & the alternator. By keeping the Smartpass you retain the Start Assist feature & the load terminal for consumers such as the fridge etc which is then powered by the alternator while on the move. This leaves the service battery free to be charged quickly to float by the Redarc without the fridge cycling & interrupting the charging stages. You also retain the trickle charging to maintain the starter.

 

[MrMike]

No, not yet, may in the future

They basically said that it doesn’t have all rhe same functionality, but no were not that specific about it.

My concern is that the Smartpass will connect the 2 if the start battery is low, this will not end well for your lithium battery

 

[Miki]

I think all of the issues are related to the fact that the ECU controlls the output of the alternator not the batteries and certainly not the Aux battery.

 

[MarkH]

My concern is that the Smartpass will connect the 2 if the start battery is low, this will not end well for your lithium battery

When moving to a Lithium service battery you remove the Smartpass and just use the 250SE or Redarc and a VSR. Carry a Noco jump starter to replace start assist.

 

[MarkH]

I think all of the issues are related to the fact that the ECU controlls the output of the alternator not the batteries and certainly not the Aux battery.

Reason you need the 250SE (or a Redarc) so it can boost the voltage. Ineos just put the base system in place, user needs to build from there depending on what consumers they run, fridge camp lights etc

 

[MarkH]

Interesting...the Smartpass alone charges up to 120 amps. So imagine just having that alone?

Not with a smart alternator as it can throttle back the voltage to 12.xV and the Smartpass will drop out. You need the 250SE or Redarc which can boost that reduced voltage and start pulling amps from the starter causing the alternator to ramp back up. The Smartpass will then kick back in and add to the charging, depending on the service battery's state of charge.

 

[MrMike]

When moving to a Lithium service battery you remove the Smartpass and just use the 250SE or Redarc and a VSR. Carry a Noco jump starter to replace start assist.

Im conversant with smart alternators. The Redarc should negate the need for a VSR. But yes, I will be carrying a jump starter

 

[Miki]

Not with a smart alternator as it can throttle back the voltage to 12.xV and the Smartpass will drop out. You need the 250SE or Redarc which can boost that reduced voltage and start pulling amps from the starter causing the alternator to ramp back up. The Smartpass will then kick back in and add to the charging, depending on the service battery's state of charge.

But, only if the cars ECU tells the smart alternatoir to tun on and/or your voltage boosting smart device communicates its need of amps to the ECU.
The smart alternator is actually a wee bit of a thicko and needs telling ... the question is here, in the Grenny, who is telling it ?

 

[Tomdoc]

Here's a good explanation from Ctek regarding which one to install... D250SE or Smartpass. Interesting Ineos selected the Smartpass but presume would have been a recommendation from Ctek. For my purpose I need the solar input and will add the 250SE (and gain all the advantages of both units rather than changing brand).

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Gz27SH79Oc

Hi - I am also waiting to install a D250SE and would love to check how the wiring is done given we already have the 120 installed - for instance ?extra fuses required in the 250 cabling. Perhaps we should start a new thread to share the experience of adding a 250 as I am sure a few will be doing it.

 

[bakepl]

Hi - I am also waiting to install a D250SE and would love to check how the wiring is done given we already have the 120 installed - for instance ?extra fuses required in the 250 cabling. Perhaps we should start a new thread to share the experience of adding a 250 as I am sure a few will be doing it.

This video from Ctek together with the installation diagram/instructions is helpful and explains it all. (When he talks about 6mm cable for the solar it will be 6mm2 and not 6mm automotive cable).

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UiIU49R4j2k