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Battery down! And the second battery is no help...

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Or just replace the factory aux battery with a lithium set up in the same space :)
I suppose I could walk outside and look, but, my keyboard is right here, and so are you... :) ... are these AGM's or just regular lead acids? and group size are these?
 

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I suppose I could walk outside and look, but, my keyboard is right here, and so are you... :) ... are these AGM's or just regular lead acids? and group size are these?
Neither, they are EFB... And I'm 98% sure they are 95R/H9 size as they are 105Ah each
 
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Neither, they are EFB... And I'm 98% sure they are 95R/H9 size as they are 105Ah each
Is it safe to assume, in a pinch, those are replaceable with a standard flooded and not an agm?
 

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Is it safe to assume, in a pinch, those are replaceable with a standard flooded and not an agm?
Sure.... EFB is effectively a "intended for auto start/stop" standard battery and is slightly more resilient to numerous high amperage moments (the auto start/stop system). It still uses (roughly) the charge profile of a traditional battery, unlike AGMs
 

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Sure.... EFB is effectively a "intended for auto start/stop" standard battery and is slightly more resilient to numerous high amperage moments (the auto start/stop system). It still uses (roughly) the charge profile of a traditional battery, unlike AGMs
I feel AGM can handle high amperage and actually do better with high tech vehicles. The trade off, is they do worst when you draw them past 50%. Also heavy draw loads are better suited with AGM.
 

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I check the state of charge of my batteries every time I drive…

I agree (so much so that my “FAV” button is programmed to bring up The Off-road Electrical Page).
 

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I feel AGM can handle high amperage and actually do better with high tech vehicles. The trade off, is they do worst when you draw them past 50%. Also heavy draw loads are better suited with AGM.
AGM would absolutely be better... But, it is also notably more expensive :)
 

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I have an Anderson plug attached to the aux bat. To this I connect a DC-DC charger which outputs to a 140AH LiFePo4. This is my house battery, until I understand how TF the Ineos system works.
 

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My Grenny was at the dealer, among other things to fit a winch. The car was there for three weeks. After that, there were several error messages, such as passenger airbag off. I suspect that they didn't wait long enough for the sleep mode when fitting the winch. And/or by repeatedly opening the doors, the car was on standby for three weeks and the starter battery was deeply discharged as a result. The car was then parked in my yard with the damaged battery, again for tinkering. That probably killed the battery. And the second battery couldn't prevent that.
For me, the Ineos dual-battery system is not safe enough. I will leave the starter battery with AGM or, if possible, convert to a lithium starter battery. And operate my Anker lithium power bank with built-in 2200W converter via CTEK 250S. The Anker power bank is used to operate the cool box and the espresso machine. That works perfectly.
My battery discharged rapidly from time to time without any reason within less than a week. When down to nearly empty all lights have been on (all but the e-call light vanished after charging). I talked to my dealer and they measured the voltage under various circumstances for some days. At the end they replaced the battery by a new one as the thought that there might be a damaged cell in the first one.
Since eight months I do not have any issues with the battery anymore even after leaving the car alone for a month in summer.
 

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I have an Anderson plug attached to the aux bat. To this I connect a DC-DC charger which outputs to a 140AH LiFePo4. This is my house battery, until I understand how TF the Ineos system works.
Hi @Disco Dave I’m thinking of one of these systems for my leisure battery usage such as fridge. It says to use the supplied ignition wire for vehicles with modern/euro 6 alternators. Have you used an ignition live wire to your dc to dc charger
 
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Disco Dave

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Hi @Disco Dave I’m thinking of one of these systems for my leisure battery usage such as fridge. It says to use the supplied ignition wire for vehicles with modern/euro 6 alternators. Have you used an ignition live wire to your dc to dc charger
No I haven’t. Am not sure why it is necessary, the aux gets charged by the main, which gets charged by the alternator. My DC-DC is bolted to the top of my battery box. I can basically send or receive power from anywhere.
 

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Znarfgh

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No I haven’t. Am not sure why it is necessary, the aux gets charged by the main, which gets charged by the alternator. My DC-DC is bolted to the top of my battery box. I can basically send or receive power from anywhere.
Have you checked to see if the DC/DC charger shuts down when you turn the engine off? Theoretically, if the power supply to the DC/DC charger is constant it will not shut down and continue to drain the power source.

The ignition trigger wire is only required if the alternator is used to power the DC/DC charger so that it keeps running even when the smart alternator stops charging the starter battery.
 

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Perfect thanks @Disco Dave and @Znarfgh. I have the two seater commercial so would want a battery box in a similar location. I also have the dual battery and high load wiring. I think there is an ignition trigger wire with 40a supply that is in the battery compartment, which is there to potentially supply a compressor, so In theory I could use that ignition trigger wire if I get the portable battery box as I posted above that has inbuilt dc to dc charger.
 

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Portable lithium battery box with a DC- DC charger works very well.
Hi Tazzieman. Have you used an ignition trigger wire or just direct connection via the dc to dc charger to one of the two Grenadier batteries
 

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Perfect thanks @Disco Dave and @Znarfgh. I have the two seater commercial so would want a battery box in a similar location. I also have the dual battery and high load wiring. I think there is an ignition trigger wire with 40a supply that is in the battery compartment, which is there to potentially supply a compressor, so In theory I could use that ignition trigger wire if I get the portable battery box as I posted above that has inbuilt dc to dc charger.
Yep, that's the trigger wire that I used for my portable LiFePO4 battery in a box with DC/DC charger.
 

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Perfect I’ll get one like the one I posted above from 12v planet. Unless others have got a better suggestion or manufacturer
 
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