Sticking door handle button?

[Chadd7]

Well I was too lazy to go to the store and decided to press each door’s button 30 times or so. Must have loosened things up because no issues since. Who lnows.

 

[grnamin]

Constant storms seem to have exacerbated the problem. Maybe more debris and corrosion inside the door button mechanism. Stuck buttons occurring more often now. Lubrication only delays the next occurrence.

 

[Eric]

Well I was too lazy to go to the store and decided to press each door’s button 30 times or so. Must have loosened things up because no issues since. Who lnows.

I agree with you, my driver and passenger door very rarely stick now, through use. Similarly the back door is getting better. All I need to do is carry more rear seat passengers

 

[Top Cat]

I am having trouble with the drivers side door (R/H Drive) button not popping back out.
Last week I was at an accident holding the traffic back when I had to move the car to let the ambulance in.
I opened the driver door and closed it but couldn't move the car as it went into stop mode as the door wasnt secured. I got out and fiddled with the locking mechanism and finally got the button to pop back and was able to close the door. A bit embarrassing!
Now the passenger door has started doing it.
Anyone else having this issue?
TC

 

[Jean Mercier]

I am having trouble with the drivers side door (R/H Drive) button not popping back out.
Last week I was at an accident holding the traffic back when I had to move the car to let the ambulance in.
I opened the driver door and closed it but couldn't move the car as it went into stop mode as the door wasnt secured. I got out and fiddled with the locking mechanism and finally got the button to pop back and was able to close the door. A bit embarrassing!
Now the passenger door has started doing it.
Anyone else having this issue?
TC

That's a recurrent problem with quite some Grenadiers, I had it too. They place some additional rubber rings in the mechanism, but it doesn't always solve the problem

 

[bakepl]

Yep, I was told by agent too much grease.... apparently easy fix.... was done at agent a month ago but has returned, only one door - drivers side rear RHD. I did try silicone spray and that worked for a little while. Still sticks now and I've learnt to bump the button area hard with my hand and it pops out. Will ask for a permanent fix next service.

 

[Brandtnm]

Plain WD40, while moving the button in and out, fixed mine, and because it isn’t really a lubricant but rather a water dispersant (‘WD’) it doesn’t gum up the works with microscopic waterproof silicon residue after a few weeks.

 

[Dok]

I am having trouble with the drivers side door (R/H Drive) button not popping back out.
Last week I was at an accident holding the traffic back when I had to move the car to let the ambulance in.
I opened the driver door and closed it but couldn't move the car as it went into stop mode as the door wasnt secured. I got out and fiddled with the locking mechanism and finally got the button to pop back and was able to close the door. A bit embarrassing!
Now the passenger door has started doing it.
Anyone else having this issue?
TC

Permanent (till next issue) fix = Buttons replacement (except for the driver one with the key which seems a problem to order).
Have them changed 10 days ago.

Workaround = WD40.

 

[Tazzieman]

Give the door a thump with the heel of your hand.
And lube. I used silicone spray.

 

[Eric]

Plain WD40, while moving the button in and out, fixed mine, and because it isn’t really a lubricant but rather a water dispersant (‘WD’) it doesn’t gum up the works with microscopic waterproof silicon residue after a few weeks.

Doesn't WD40 eventually rot rubber? That's why I use silicon or better still ptfe based spray

 

[LeftCoastOverland]

Same here. Sticky buttons. Annoying but not a deal breaker. Glad to see everyone else is using WD40 as well.

 

[CRH]

I thought they had a fix for this with some replacement parts as I was asked if mine needed looking at when they had it in for work

 

[trobex]

Graphite powder is your friend. Use a small 'tomato sauce' squeezer an shoot it in there!

 

[emax]

There is a Technical Service Bulletin which addresses this issue.

About an hour of work for each door as they have to dismantle the entire mechanic inside the door.

So forget WD40 and other tricks.

 

[CrazyOldMan]

There is a Technical Service Bulletin which addresses this issue.

About an hour of work for each door as they have to dismantle the entire mechanic inside the door.

So forget WD40 and other tricks.

Thanks for sending - actually had the door swing open on a left hand turn, with my little one in the back. Of course the alarm went off, but her scream was definitely louder! Will have this addressed next time I’m in.

 

[Brandtnm]

Doesn't WD40 eventually rot rubber? That's why I use silicon or better still ptfe based spray

I had not heard that before. So I checked with the hive mind (because everything you read on the Internet is true ). But it sounds like that is true for some plastics. Apparently:
Amorphous polymers like polycarbonate, polystyrenes, and PVC are the kind that are vulnerable to WD-40-based erosion. These are the kinds of plastics you'd find in things like plastic cutlery, baby bottles, optical discs, and LCD screens. If you spray these things with WD-40, they're going to break down.
But , crystalline plastics are more resistant to erosion caused by WD-40. These include things like polypropylene, polyethylene, polyester, and nylon. This stuff is used in the creation of tougher plastic objects like laboratory-grade chairs or dishwasher-safe Tupperware.

So, I see two possibilities; 1 the plastics in our doorhandle are crystalline and it’s not doing anything but slicking stuff, OR 2 that the too tight factory seals are actually getting degraded on a microscopic level, thus making them no longer too tight.

Any real chemists like to chime in?

Full disclaimer: not a chemist!

 

[Eric]

I had not heard that before. So I checked with the hive mind (because everything you read on the Internet is true ). But it sounds like that is true for some plastics. Apparently:
Amorphous polymers like polycarbonate, polystyrenes, and PVC are the kind that are vulnerable to WD-40-based erosion. These are the kinds of plastics you'd find in things like plastic cutlery, baby bottles, optical discs, and LCD screens. If you spray these things with WD-40, they're going to break down.
But , crystalline plastics are more resistant to erosion caused by WD-40. These include things like polypropylene, polyethylene, polyester, and nylon. This stuff is used in the creation of tougher plastic objects like laboratory-grade chairs or dishwasher-safe Tupperware.

So, I see two possibilities; 1 the plastics in our doorhandle are crystalline and it’s not doing anything but slicking stuff, OR 2 that the too tight factory seals are actually getting degraded on a microscopic level, thus making them no longer too tight.

Any real chemists like to chime in?

Full disclaimer: not a chemist!

I'll just stick with silicone, ptfe or graphite spray to be on the safe side.

 

[Tazzieman]

I'll just stick with silicone, ptfe or graphite spray to be on the safe side.

You could make up a paste and syringe it in. The dealer can clean it all out when he eventually fixes the problem under warranty!

 

[bakepl]

There is a Technical Service Bulletin which addresses this issue.

About an hour of work for each door as they have to dismantle the entire mechanic inside the door.

So forget WD40 and other tricks.

champion thank you.

 

[trobex]

My boot door lock had this issue - and only after the wife used a drive through clean!! I suspect soap being slapped into the mechanism fouled whatever grease/rings are in there and made it tacky. After about 40x presses and roughly 3 grams of graphite (the ultra-fine version for precision tools) and now working as intended. Will have to be dealt with at dealers later when I have spare time!