Yeaaaaahhhhh - I heard him say that but kinda thought the same as @Logsplitter - and Ronny Dahl did have some rubbing that you could hear when he swapped tires.
Yeaaaaahhhhh - I heard him say that but kinda thought the same as @Logsplitter - and Ronny Dahl did have some rubbing that you could hear when he swapped tires.
Going with modestly larger tires, assuming they don’t rub, would be the most reliable and safest way to gain some lift… all suspension geometry would remain at stock settings and not impacted. Anything up to say 1.5” taller (half this measurement for your actual lift) should not present any issue unless you go excessively wide at the same time. Done right the only penalties you’ll pay will be increased weight at each corner, slight speedometer error, the engine working a bit harder as the rolling circumference is larger which is sort of like having a taller gear ratio and finally a bit less fuel economy. Balanced against what you’ll gain off-road all perfectly acceptable compromises.
a "35" is .5 to .75" more radius, but a 10-10.5 may be 2" narrower than a 12.5 (1" per side measured from the center line), and depending on what is being rubbed and when, your nominal 35 pizza cutter may do slightly better than your fattie 33.5. Thats why it's nice to know actual dimensions vs sidewall labeling. Kenda may not be my goto tire brand, but, if I can get a free 1" lift out of it, I bet it's good enough.
Oi vey - 12.5”???? A 285/75/17 is only 11.2” - I think that’s what Ronny Dahl was using and he got some rubbing. 12.5 would be “a gentleman of prosperous carriage”
This made me curious enough to attempt to measure the angles on my stock drivetrain with nonstock springs (Eibach 2.5 lift). I found it difficult to measure the angles and the numbers were much lower than I would have guessed by just looking at the angles. The numbers I measured below are the most conservative measurements I made (i.e. highest angle I measured) at each joint. For each measurement I attempted to measure both sides of the axle in an attempt to get a flat surface as a guide (i.e. the diff housing).
If my measurements are even close to correct, then we should easily be within the 15 degree allowance of the Teraflex unit. I wonder what the tolerances are for the stock unit?
I'm not sure if someone else who is more agile and perhaps has better tools to measure the angles can double check my measurements?
Here is what I found:
_____________________
Front driveshaft where it connects to the front diff:
About 7 degrees
[Edit note: This is simply a photo so I would know what measurement I took, it is not me actually doing the measuring. When I had the protractor aligned to take the measurements it required both hands and at that point I had the center of the protractor alighted about even with where those screw heads meet the metal housing. I didn't have a third hand to help take a photo at that point.]
______________________
Front driveshaft where it connects to the center diff, about 6.5 degrees:
(sorry for the crappy photo)
__________________
Rear driveshaft where it connects to the center diff, about 3.5 degrees:
_______________
Rear driveshaft where it connects to the rear diff, about degrees also about 3.5 degrees:
______________
As a side note I saw that the cooling fins on my transmission housing are caked in dried on mud, I guess I need to find a place where I can lift up my Grenadier and power wash the mud off, anyone happen to know such a place in the Phoenix Area? This was a very common service for car washes when I lived in Saudi.
I grabbed a cheap mag base angle finder from Harbor Freight and attached it to the bottom side of the front driveshaft, in the middle. It showed right at -10. Of course it's not calibrated and that may not be the right way to check it, but that's what I did. Also have the 2.5 with stock 17" rims/tires. I'll compare next week after the Teraflex is installed.This made me curious enough to attempt to measure the angles on my stock drivetrain with nonstock springs (Eibach 2.5 lift). I found it difficult to measure the angles and the numbers were much lower than I would have guessed by just looking at the angles. The numbers I measured below are the most conservative measurements I made (i.e. highest angle I measured) at each joint. For each measurement I attempted to measure both sides of the axle in an attempt to get a flat surface as a guide (i.e. the diff housing).
If my measurements are even close to correct, then we should easily be within the 15 degree allowance of the Teraflex unit. I wonder what the tolerances are for the stock unit?
I'm not sure if someone else who is more agile and perhaps has better tools to measure the angles can double check my measurements?
Here is what I found:
_____________________
Front driveshaft where it connects to the front diff:
About 7 degrees
[Edit note: This is simply a photo so I would know what measurement I took, it is not me actually doing the measuring. When I had the protractor aligned to take the measurements it required both hands and at that point I had the center of the protractor alighted about even with where those screw heads meet the metal housing. I didn't have a third hand to help take a photo at that point.]
______________________
Front driveshaft where it connects to the center diff, about 6.5 degrees:
(sorry for the crappy photo)
__________________
Rear driveshaft where it connects to the center diff, about 3.5 degrees:
_______________
Rear driveshaft where it connects to the rear diff, about degrees also about 3.5 degrees:
______________
As a side note I saw that the cooling fins on my transmission housing are caked in dried on mud, I guess I need to find a place where I can lift up my Grenadier and power wash the mud off, anyone happen to know such a place in the Phoenix Area? This was a very common service for car washes when I lived in Saudi.
I just received a Ryobi 18v 320psi cordless power washer. Maybe worth a thought if you don't mind crouching down.
Don’t forget there is a horizontal angle imparted on each joint (not just a vertical angle) as none of the major components are in a perfectly straight line down the length of the vehicle. Horizontal angles also contribute to the overall workload each CV joint has to do when spinning and transferring torque. Not something folks think about when lifting their vehicles as the more obvious concern is the vertical angle.This made me curious enough to attempt to measure the angles on my stock drivetrain with nonstock springs (Eibach 2.5 lift). I found it difficult to measure the angles and the numbers were much lower than I would have guessed by just looking at the angles. The numbers I measured below are the most conservative measurements I made (i.e. highest angle I measured) at each joint. For each measurement I attempted to measure both sides of the axle in an attempt to get a flat surface as a guide (i.e. the diff housing).
If my measurements are even close to correct, then we should easily be within the 15 degree allowance of the Teraflex unit. I wonder what the tolerances are for the stock unit?
I'm not sure if someone else who is more agile and perhaps has better tools to measure the angles can double check my measurements?
Here is what I found:
_____________________
Front driveshaft where it connects to the front diff:
About 7 degrees
[Edit note: This is simply a photo so I would know what measurement I took, it is not me actually doing the measuring. When I had the protractor aligned to take the measurements it required both hands and at that point I had the center of the protractor alighted about even with where those screw heads meet the metal housing. I didn't have a third hand to help take a photo at that point.]
______________________
Front driveshaft where it connects to the center diff, about 6.5 degrees:
(sorry for the crappy photo)
__________________
Rear driveshaft where it connects to the center diff, about 3.5 degrees:
_______________
Rear driveshaft where it connects to the rear diff, about degrees also about 3.5 degrees:
______________
As a side note I saw that the cooling fins on my transmission housing are caked in dried on mud, I guess I need to find a place where I can lift up my Grenadier and power wash the mud off, anyone happen to know such a place in the Phoenix Area? This was a very common service for car washes when I lived in Saudi.
It would be interesting to strap a GoPro on and watch what happens when flexed out
285/70/17 KM3's here. No rub.
That’s good to know. So just over an inch increased tyre diameter but to go to 35” without a suspension lift as some are suggesting seems a bit too much.
Ok - that’s helpful. I guess that’s the plan for now, then, if people want a little more clearance without the risk of a drive shaft failure and warranty issues. It’s probably also worth noting that if you go to 285/70/17, you’re only picking up 1.1” of total tire diameter - just over 1/2” of additional clearance.
Stock 17" steels. I bought a spare set off of spjnr on here. Kept my K02's for the alps. I do very much like the look of the bigger tyre and it's necessary for me to have m/t here as an awful lot of clay down here in Sussex and the K02's just slick up.
I've been considering going to this tyre size but on paper at 32.7" diameter the 285/70R17's are only +1.1" compared to the 31.6" diameter of the stock 265/70R17 tyres. As this only equates to a 0.55" lift (because the other half of the tyre is above the axle) I can't justify the ~£1,800 price tag for a set of 5 new tyres in my head. A true 34" tyre would be in the realm of 285/75R17 but numerous searches online have been fruitless - no one seems to offer a quality tyre at any size bigger than 285/70R17 in the UK. If anyone has managed to source a decent 34" tyre option in the UK I'd be keen to hear about it.
Hmm - probably better for the wheels/tires thread instead of driveshaft - but I was less than thrilled by the K02’s in snow/ice (had a couple of blizzards after I picked up the Grenadier this spring), so ordered Blizzak LT’s for when it gets really bad. Won’t put them on until November so don’t know how much it will improve performance.
It will be interesting to see when reports come out on KM3 in snow and ice. They seem to have more sipes from the reviews I saw, making hopefully for a more compliant and flexible tread on ice and in snow. We shall see. Certainly they will never match a proper winter tire.
There's probably a category for this on pornhub
Can't get them in the UK sadly
