CTEK SMARTPASS 120S and 250SE DC to DC charger basic features and install information

[TheDocAUS]

Ok now I am confused because in post #1 of this thread states the following
"The CTEK SMARTPASS 120S is the Lithium version (plus other chemistries) installed on the INEOS. The CTEK SMARTPASS 120 (no S) is the non-lithium version. Add S for Lithium"

That is what CTEK says about the difference between the 120 and the 120S. Just like the CTEK D250SE (lithium) and the D250SA (non lithium).

 

[chrsbe]

The easy answer to all of these questions is to replace the CTEK system with one from Redarc or Victron. The CTEK setup is mediocre at best.

You might be right. But before I replace it I want to understand it.

 

[TheDocAUS]

The easy answer to all of these questions is to replace the CTEK system with one from Redarc or Victron. The CTEK setup is mediocre at best.

I have used a few different systems over the years (Redarc x2, Intervolt and CTEK). The Redarc is better, but the CTEK is very capable also. CTEK is a good choice for the IG and my system is working well (dual batteries with 120S, 2540SE and solar panel).

There will always be complications when you want to add in a Lithium battery to the mix – resulting in mixed battery chemistries. Which is why I use a battery box with a DC to DC charger if I need it.

The other thing I have learnt is that EFB batteries work and charge a lot better than the older sealed lead acid batteries. The CTEK system can recharge very quickly.

 

[chrsbe]

I have used a few different systems over the years (Redarc x2, Intervolt and CTEK). The Redarc is better, but the CTEK is very capable also. CTEK is a good choice for the IG and my system is working well (dual batteries with 120S, 2540SE and solar panel).

There will always be complications when you want to add in a Lithium battery to the mix – resulting in mixed battery chemistries. Which is why I use a battery box with a DC to DC charger if I need it.

The other thing I have learnt is that EFB batteries work and charge a lot better than the older sealed lead acid batteries. The CTEK system can recharge very quickly.

The 250SE is a DC DC charger and your system should work with a Lithium battery replacing the original secondary FEB. Why carry a third one with you?

 

[TD5-90]

With this setup we would loose tickle charging of the starter battery and also start assist function am i right?

IMHO: Yes.

 

[TheDocAUS]

The 250SE is a DC DC charger and your system should work with a Lithium battery replacing the original secondary FEB. Why carry a third one with you?

I already had a battery box with a lithium battery. I just fitted the BB to the Grenadier to give me that option. I have not used it yet on a trip, but I have tested it in the Grenadier.

It gives me an extra option and more capacity when I go remote in Australia (like a Simpson Desert crossing, Cape York or The Kimberley). All it cost me was a Kickass installation cable and 30 minutes of work. I was just making better use of what I had.

I can go remote (just one 8.000km trip, plus 390km in the air over Lake Eyre):

 

[Znarfgh]

So it is very likely that the function of the Smartpass 120s to connect the second battery while starting is disabled with a Lifepo4 type household battery. So you loose this safety net when you install a Lifepo4. Would you agree?

I don't think so. The Smartpass is not smart enough to recognise different chemistries so I think that function will still work - the question is, how well and at what cost to the LiFePO4 battery.

 

[Znarfgh]

I already had a battery box with a lithium battery. I just fitted the BB to the Grenadier to give me that option. I have not used it yet on a trip, but I have tested it in the Grenadier.

I use mine all the time and have almost all my power consumers connected to a 12-gang fuse block which is in turn, conncected to the battery box with one Anderson plug. Works well, one plug and everything is live.

 

[Znarfgh]

The 250SE is a DC DC charger and your system should work with a Lithium battery replacing the original secondary FEB. Why carry a third one with you?

You don't have to modify anything which could possibly affect warranty if something goes wrong with the electrical system. Secondly, why get rid of a working battery? Even if the dual battery system is not ideal. When the auxiliary EFB dies, you replace it with a Lithium. Better yet, you replace both EFB's with Lithium, do some rewiring and have a traditional dual battery system (I believe there are cranking Lithium's out there but am unsure whether they will cope with the stop/start system which pulls huge current on startup)

I also had a spare Lithium battery which I bought a few years back for an experiment, and with the motivation of extra Amps and not changing the factory system, I used it the IG.

 

[bakepl]

Two questions that remain unanswered for me:
1) Will start assist still being available when i swap the original Aux Battery for a Lifepo4?
2) Why is the "fridge" connector on the 120s not usable?
View attachment 7886785

Perhaps the total removal of the consumer out has something to do with the following safety notice and Ctek themselves having to reduce the output from 80 to 50amps and supply a standoff free of charge. Perhaps Ineos conducted a risk assessment of whatever the issue was and total destruction of the vehicle, due to a possible but unlikely fault with the Ctek was unacceptable. https://www.ctek.com/product-safety-notice-smartpass.

My early build trialmaster has the 250SE fitted and works fine. IMPO I believe there are better or more capable products available and perhaps I will look at this after warranty. The solar input of the D250SE is relatively limited (for my purpose) with a max input of 23v. (I have a superb folding panel but @ 40v) What is very good about the combination of 250 and 120 is the max amp output of 120amps. Otherwise works as intended.

 

[Rok_Dr]

Ok maybe i got this wrong. I thought the "fridge" consumer outlet switches of automatically before the aux battery is drained. Isn't it?

Correct but its to protect the auxiliary battery from deep discharge and kicks in at 11.5v. Effectively the battery is close to flat.

Ok now I am confused because in post #1 of this thread states the following
"The CTEK SMARTPASS 120S is the Lithium version (plus other chemistries) installed on the INEOS. The CTEK SMARTPASS 120 (no S) is the non-lithium version. Add S for Lithium"

Again you're correct and I stand corrected. But what is not clear from reading the Ctek literature is whether the Smartpass alone, can manage charging profiles or does it need DS250SE to be fitted as well to do this. Perhaps asking Ctek support will give a clearer answer. I've found them to be very responsive and helpful to my queries.

Ctek support will also be able to advise whether the battery you are considering is suitable to use with the Smartpass in the Grenadier.

At the end of the day regardless of the size and chemistry of the auxiliary battery fitted to the Grenadier, without further modification you will run the risk of having 2 flat batteries if you power accessories from the auxiliary battery. This is why others are replacing the Smartpass system with other charging/management systems and in some cases redirecting the vehicles auxiliary wiring from the starter battery to the auxiliary battery. I also believe that this is why Ineos removed the consumer post as they consider the auxiliary battery's only purpose is for emergency starting.

Cheers
Steve