CTEK SMARTPASS 120S and 250SE DC to DC charger basic features and install information

[TheDocAUS]

Ok now I am confused because in post #1 of this thread states the following
"The CTEK SMARTPASS 120S is the Lithium version (plus other chemistries) installed on the INEOS. The CTEK SMARTPASS 120 (no S) is the non-lithium version. Add S for Lithium"

That is what CTEK says about the difference between the 120 and the 120S. Just like the CTEK D250SE (lithium) and the D250SA (non lithium).

 

[chrsbe]

The easy answer to all of these questions is to replace the CTEK system with one from Redarc or Victron. The CTEK setup is mediocre at best.

You might be right. But before I replace it I want to understand it.

 

[TheDocAUS]

The easy answer to all of these questions is to replace the CTEK system with one from Redarc or Victron. The CTEK setup is mediocre at best.

I have used a few different systems over the years (Redarc x2, Intervolt and CTEK). The Redarc is better, but the CTEK is very capable also. CTEK is a good choice for the IG and my system is working well (dual batteries with 120S, 2540SE and solar panel).

There will always be complications when you want to add in a Lithium battery to the mix – resulting in mixed battery chemistries. Which is why I use a battery box with a DC to DC charger if I need it.

The other thing I have learnt is that EFB batteries work and charge a lot better than the older sealed lead acid batteries. The CTEK system can recharge very quickly.

 

[chrsbe]

I have used a few different systems over the years (Redarc x2, Intervolt and CTEK). The Redarc is better, but the CTEK is very capable also. CTEK is a good choice for the IG and my system is working well (dual batteries with 120S, 2540SE and solar panel).

There will always be complications when you want to add in a Lithium battery to the mix – resulting in mixed battery chemistries. Which is why I use a battery box with a DC to DC charger if I need it.

The other thing I have learnt is that EFB batteries work and charge a lot better than the older sealed lead acid batteries. The CTEK system can recharge very quickly.

The 250SE is a DC DC charger and your system should work with a Lithium battery replacing the original secondary FEB. Why carry a third one with you?

 

[TD5-90]

With this setup we would loose tickle charging of the starter battery and also start assist function am i right?

IMHO: Yes.

 

[TheDocAUS]

The 250SE is a DC DC charger and your system should work with a Lithium battery replacing the original secondary FEB. Why carry a third one with you?

I already had a battery box with a lithium battery. I just fitted the BB to the Grenadier to give me that option. I have not used it yet on a trip, but I have tested it in the Grenadier.

It gives me an extra option and more capacity when I go remote in Australia (like a Simpson Desert crossing, Cape York or The Kimberley). All it cost me was a Kickass installation cable and 30 minutes of work. I was just making better use of what I had.

I can go remote (just one 8.000km trip, plus 390km in the air over Lake Eyre):

 

[Znarfgh]

So it is very likely that the function of the Smartpass 120s to connect the second battery while starting is disabled with a Lifepo4 type household battery. So you loose this safety net when you install a Lifepo4. Would you agree?

I don't think so. The Smartpass is not smart enough to recognise different chemistries so I think that function will still work - the question is, how well and at what cost to the LiFePO4 battery.

 

[Znarfgh]

I already had a battery box with a lithium battery. I just fitted the BB to the Grenadier to give me that option. I have not used it yet on a trip, but I have tested it in the Grenadier.

I use mine all the time and have almost all my power consumers connected to a 12-gang fuse block which is in turn, conncected to the battery box with one Anderson plug. Works well, one plug and everything is live.

 

[Znarfgh]

The 250SE is a DC DC charger and your system should work with a Lithium battery replacing the original secondary FEB. Why carry a third one with you?

You don't have to modify anything which could possibly affect warranty if something goes wrong with the electrical system. Secondly, why get rid of a working battery? Even if the dual battery system is not ideal. When the auxiliary EFB dies, you replace it with a Lithium. Better yet, you replace both EFB's with Lithium, do some rewiring and have a traditional dual battery system (I believe there are cranking Lithium's out there but am unsure whether they will cope with the stop/start system which pulls huge current on startup)

I also had a spare Lithium battery which I bought a few years back for an experiment, and with the motivation of extra Amps and not changing the factory system, I used it the IG.