That is not an easy question to answer because it depends on the options chosen and the model variations between countries. The best place to start is the 5 stud busbar on the secondary battery, then follow the wiring. Also look at the INTERIOR ELECTRICAL CENTRE (SECONDARY FUSE BOX 1B).
Thank you, thats what i had begun to suspect, but find a little disappointing. There seem to some conflicts with my modus operandi, Ill have to wait till mine arrives to decide how im going to approach this. Ive been impressed by the community enthusiasm for the CTEK products, and the 120s/D250se would address all my needs for the actual truck, but i feel strongly about the separation of powers, if you will, and willl need to get my hands on it before trying to plan any further ahead.
The same conclusion I reached.
Hadnt occurred to me that there might be variations between countries. I took for granted dual battery would equal dual battery wherever the truck was going. This will become a fun puzzle once it arrives, i had just been hoping to pick up some more items on boxing day sales, but thatll have to be boxing day 2024 now
Nice work you and Jean with the fusebox threads, that'll save countless hours down the road. Ill try to contribute once i figure out what will work for us
Fantastic! This is how i had imagined it being arranged, including the same bluesea fusebox. i especially like the high current inverter wires, we'll need to do better than the 400w from ineos and have been leaning towards a renogy 2000w and battery monitor. Does the victron shunt you installed allow monitoring of the primary battery as well? pictures on amazon look like it has an input for both
It allows monitoring of the voltage on a second battery but not current and capacity / soc.
www.ctek.com
There is a problem with the CTEK and a related safety notice. I reckon it might have something to do with it.
Product Safety Notice - SMARTPASS
I also kept the screw and put some anti sieze in there so that if they did try to glue it wouldn’t stick. In the end I don’t think they did glue, but if they did, my trick worked.I refer to the first post of this thread, my post number 15 and post 17 ..., all on the first page of this thread.
Last week I went to my workshop for my 20000 km periodic (preventive) maintenance, and they did the put a sticker on my smartpass that I am not allowed to use the consumer output, and did put the plastic "screw".
As I said, I removed the original screw before going to the workshop, and I asked NOT to glue the plastic screw.
In fact it isn't a screw! I is a cap, and has to be glued, otherwise it stays completely loose!
View attachment 7836877
I am happy I kept the original screw
I would agree with that.
