You now can’t use the Smartpass consumer output

[TheDocAUS]

That's a big surge to blow a 300 amp fuse.

The 300 amp MEGA fuses are high quality fuses made by Littelfuse, so a faulty fuse is unlikely.

 

[Camskii]

That's a big surge to blow a 300 amp fuse.

The 300 amp MEGA fuses are high quality fuses amde by Littelfuse, so a faulty fuse is unlikely.

Yep. thats my concern. All that we did was add the D250SE to the smartpass. Nothing is connected to the output consumer at all. So maybe its related to this recall issue somehow? Autoelec is looking into it at the moment.

 

[Tazzieman]

I have just had the 300amp fuse blow between the smartpass and second battery. Anyone had this happen?

I hope you've never made a joke about Lucas electrics!

 

[TheDocAUS]

Yep. thats my concern. All that we did was add the D250SE to the smartpass. Nothing is connected to the output consumer at all. So maybe its related to this recall issue somehow? Autoelec is looking into it at the moment.

You must disconnect both batteries when installing the CTEK250SE. That must have caused a short, a big one.

 

[Camskii]

You must disconnect both batteries when installing the CTEK250SE. That must have caused a short, a big one.

The install was done by a very experienced autoelec so dont think that caused it

 

[Clark Kent]

The install was done by a very experienced autoelec so dont think that caused it

Probably not, but everyone is entitled to a bad day. I have to think your sparky would own it if he caused it. That's a LOT of brown smoke to hide.
No new welded on tool-shaped seat frame attachments?

Hard to think what could cause a current flow >300A other than a short to ground. Did he happen to connect the red wire for the Smartpass or the D250SE? We're all still on the fence on that point.
The lack of terminal boots and covers on the Grenadier is dissapointing. Disconnecting both batteries has become my first action when I'm working under the seat. It's just too easy to mindlessly put a tool down onto a live terminal.

 

[TheDocAUS]

The install was done by a very experienced autoelec so dont think that caused it

The circuit needs power to blow the fuse. No power no blown fuse. So the circuit had power or there was an accidental short between exposed terminals.

 

[MrMike]

Yep. thats my concern. All that we did was add the D250SE to the smartpass. Nothing is connected to the output consumer at all. So maybe its related to this recall issue somehow? Autoelec is looking into it at the moment.

What about removing the Smartpass altogether and just running the D250SE.
Remember that the Smartpass works the other way around compared to the D250SE. It supplies power to the start battery when it's low.

 

[AnD3rew]

I hope you've never made a joke about Lucas electrics!

As someone who has multiple classic English cars I have lost count of the number of lucas jokes.

 

[Logsplitter]

My consumer output on my smartpass was blanked off on order of Ineos whilst at NMI Ineos in Gabarone getting fixed. There is a campaign for this apparently and my fridge connection that I had connected to the consumer output was connected to the main battery , although that was my choice, I could have had connected to either battery. All seems to be working fine though.

 

[Jmccmick]

After reading through the last 8 pages my current understanding of the intention of the Ineos dual battery setup is that the primary battery serves everything, the smartpass allows rapid charging of the secondary battery and facilitates its supportive role during starting, and the secondary battery really sees no use except when the primary battery has been depleted to a certain threshold. I can see a few advantages to this, like the alternator charging the primary battery directly, but on the whole it seems no better than carrying a NOCO booster, which is far less expensive and weighty. In my mind, a primary battery's primary purpose should be to start the engine and supply critical functions (ie ECU, security system, clock [ I hate resetting these when power is lost ]) and a secondary battery should supply optional low current accessories like the beer cooler (ive heard people call this 'fridge'?) and camp lights. I would be almost inclined to switch the battery connections and reverse the smartpass, or switch to a redarc dual sensing isolator, when my truck arrives (we just found out who our dealer will be in BC, Canada yesterday Dec 7, but no deilvery date yet). The other utility of the second battery is in high current operations, but i dont see how their system accomplishes this, unless the smartpass will connect it for winching as it does for starting. Has anyone identified which battery the critical systems are powered by? I imagine it must be from the secondary if they want accessories powered by the primary

 

[Znarfgh]

What about removing the Smartpass altogether and just running the D250SE.
Remember that the Smartpass works the other way around compared to the D250SE. It supplies power to the start battery when it's low.

As I understand it, the Smartpass will also connect the second battery to the main for additional power when required (ie. winching or a flat starting battery). This is not possible with a D250SE as its primary function is to isolate the auxiliary battery from the main and ensure that the auxiliary battery is fully charged. The primary function of the Smartpass as it is connected in the IG is to provide a backup to the starter battery and connect both batteries so the alternator can charge the auxiliary battery.

 

[TheDocAUS]

After reading through the last 8 pages my current understanding of the intention of the Ineos dual battery setup is that the primary battery serves everything, the smartpass allows rapid charging of the secondary battery and facilitates its supportive role during starting, and the secondary battery really sees no use except when the primary battery has been depleted to a certain threshold. I can see a few advantages to this, like the alternator charging the primary battery directly, but on the whole it seems no better than carrying a NOCO booster, which is far less expensive and weighty. In my mind, a primary battery's primary purpose should be to start the engine and supply critical functions (ie ECU, security system, clock [ I hate resetting these when power is lost ]) and a secondary battery should supply optional low current accessories like the beer cooler (ive heard people call this 'fridge'?) and camp lights. I would be almost inclined to switch the battery connections and reverse the smartpass, or switch to a redarc dual sensing isolator, when my truck arrives (we just found out who our dealer will be in BC, Canada yesterday Dec 7, but no deilvery date yet). The other utility of the second battery is in high current operations, but i dont see how their system accomplishes this, unless the smartpass will connect it for winching as it does for starting. Has anyone identified which battery the critical systems are powered by? I imagine it must be from the secondary if they want accessories powered by the primary

It is more flexible than that. The user can power accessories off the second battery if they choose.

If you mate a CTEK250SE to the 120S then:

1. the second battery is fully charged;
2. you can add solar input from a solar panel;
3. your set up is now much more like a dual battery system and you can use it as such;
4. you can replace the second battery with a Lithium battery (with minor wiring changes).

 

[MrMike]

As I understand it, the Smartpass will also connect the second battery to the main for additional power when required (ie. winching or a flat starting battery). This is not possible with a D250SE as its primary function is to isolate the auxiliary battery from the main and ensure that the auxiliary battery is fully charged. The primary function of the Smartpass as it is connected in the IG is to provide a backup to the starter battery and connect both batteries so the alternator can charge the auxiliary battery.

Yes, this is the way they used to do it many years ago, but with battery technology and monitoring it shouldn't be an issue. You can still jump the Grenadier by bypassing the D250.

 

[Jmccmick]

As I understand it, the Smartpass will also connect the second battery to the main for additional power when required (ie. winching or a flat starting battery). This is not possible with a D250SE as its primary function is to isolate the auxiliary battery from the main and ensure that the auxiliary battery is fully charged. The primary function of the Smartpass as it is connected in the IG is to provide a backup to the starter battery and connect both batteries so the alternator can charge the auxiliary battery.

I'd wondered about if would contribute during winching, nice to have that confirmed, thanks.

 

[Jmccmick]

It is more flexible than that. The user can power accessories off the second battery if they choose.

If you mate a CTEK250SE to the 120S then:

1. the second battery is fully charged;
2. you can add solar input from a solar panel;
3. your set up is now much more like a dual battery system and you can use it as such;
4. you can replace the second battery with a Lithium battery (with minor wiring changes).

Absolutely could power accessories off either, but the reason ive bothered with dual battery systems (never CTEK before) is to isolate my primary battery from everything else. I want my primary battery to serve the truck, and nothing else. I want my secondary to supply my accessories and 'nice-to-have' items. A secondary can always be used to support the primary, through a function of your isolator or hardwired with an interrupter, or jumper cables if you prefer. I havent seen a real wiring diagram (see Jeans posts) to know what is supplied by which battery (such as the ineos installed wiring to roof lights and foot wells). It would seem like poor planning to me to have the vehicles background functions supplied by the primary, and than have ineos tell us to please also use the primary as source for accessories, but dont worry because you have another battery. It would also seem silly for me to add accessories to the secondary if it risks drawing down both batteries. The ctek devices sound pretty slick reading through their website and manuals, but im sceptical of this arrangement, without understanding the rest of the wiring, or the rational for their blocking off the smartpass feed.

 

[TheDocAUS]

Absolutely could power accessories off either, but the reason ive bothered with dual battery systems (never CTEK before) is to isolate my primary battery from everything else. I want my primary battery to serve the truck, and nothing else. I want my secondary to supply my accessories and 'nice-to-have' items. A secondary can always be used to support the primary, through a function of your isolator or hardwired with an interrupter, or jumper cables if you prefer. I havent seen a real wiring diagram (see Jeans posts) to know what is supplied by which battery (such as the ineos installed wiring to roof lights and foot wells). It would seem like poor planning to me to have the vehicles background functions supplied by the primary, and than have ineos tell us to please also use the primary as source for accessories, but dont worry because you have another battery. It would also seem silly for me to add accessories to the secondary if it risks drawing down both batteries. The ctek devices sound pretty slick reading through their website and manuals, but im sceptical of this arrangement, without understanding the rest of the wiring, or the rational for their blocking off the smartpass feed.

The CTEK Manual sets out in detail what the combined units can and cannot do.

Mating the 250SE and 120S is quite flexible and there is a battery cut-off between the two batteries, so the main battery is not drained. The manual describes this feature.

I was never going to use the SMARTPASS terminal to power accessories, but attach what I needed to the main or secondary battery terminals similar to what I have done before. INEOS has been very vague, so I will work my own setup myself, with help from an autoelectrician when needed.

 

[Jmccmick]

The CTEK Manual sets out in detail what the combined units can and cannot do.

Mating the 250SE and 120S is quite flexible and there is a battery cut-off between the two batteries, so the main battery is not drained. The manual describes this feature.

I was never going to use the SMARTPASS terminal to power accessories, but attach what I needed to the main or secondary battery terminals similar to what I have done before. INEOS has been very vague, so I will work my own setup myself, with help from an autoelectrician when needed.

The manuals from CTEK well describe their functions and i understand how they work. They are not my concern. I dont understand how Ineos has wired their truck, and without that information, their dual battery arrangement is odd at best. If essential vehicle functions are supplied by the primary, then i will not be supplying accessories from the primary, because i just really dont want to reset the clock when i forget to turn the lights off, and having a security system attached to a battery that can be drained is stupid. If the ineos supplied wiring for accessories is from the primary, then i dont want to attach my accessories to the secondary because having accessories attached to both batteries is again, stupid.
My original post must not have been clear; all i really want to know is if anyone has identified which vehicle systems are attached to which battery, so i can avoid inadvertently having accessories on both batteries (because this would be stupid) and avoid draining whichever battery supplies critical/background vehicle systems (because we've all left the lights on and a security system on a dead battery is stupid)

 

[Jean Mercier]

The manuals from CTEK well describe their functions and i understand how they work. They are not my concern. I dont understand how Ineos has wired their truck, and without that information, their dual battery arrangement is odd at best. If essential vehicle functions are supplied by the primary, then i will not be supplying accessories from the primary, because i just really dont want to reset the clock when i forget to turn the lights off, and having a security system attached to a battery that can be drained is stupid. If the ineos supplied wiring for accessories is from the primary, then i dont want to attach my accessories to the secondary because having accessories attached to both batteries is again, stupid.
My original post must not have been clear; all i really want to know is if anyone has identified which vehicle systems are attached to which battery, so i can avoid inadvertently having accessories on both batteries (because this would be stupid) and avoid draining whichever battery supplies critical/background vehicle systems (because we've all left the lights on and a security system on a dead battery is stupid)

I think nothing is connected only to the secondary battery, nothing

 

[Znarfgh]

The manuals from CTEK well describe their functions and i understand how they work. They are not my concern. I dont understand how Ineos has wired their truck, and without that information, their dual battery arrangement is odd at best. If essential vehicle functions are supplied by the primary, then i will not be supplying accessories from the primary, because i just really dont want to reset the clock when i forget to turn the lights off, and having a security system attached to a battery that can be drained is stupid. If the ineos supplied wiring for accessories is from the primary, then i dont want to attach my accessories to the secondary because having accessories attached to both batteries is again, stupid.
My original post must not have been clear; all i really want to know is if anyone has identified which vehicle systems are attached to which battery, so i can avoid inadvertently having accessories on both batteries (because this would be stupid) and avoid draining whichever battery supplies critical/background vehicle systems (because we've all left the lights on and a security system on a dead battery is stupid)

Without more definitive information my take is that everything is wired to the primary battery. The second battery appears to be for supporting the primary battery when it no longer has enough power to start the vehicle.