You now can’t use the Smartpass consumer output

[TheDocAUS]

My original post must not have been clear; all i really want to know is if anyone has identified which vehicle systems are attached to which battery, so i can avoid inadvertently having accessories on both batteries (because this would be stupid) and avoid draining whichever battery supplies critical/background vehicle systems (because we've all left the lights on and a security system on a dead battery is stupid)

That is not an easy question to answer because it depends on the options chosen and the model variations between countries. The best place to start is the 5 stud busbar on the secondary battery, then follow the wiring. Also look at the INTERIOR ELECTRICAL CENTRE (SECONDARY FUSE BOX 1B).

INEOS has released no wiring diagram to my knowledge.

As a broad observation, the optional accessories that come with the aux power option.

 

[Jmccmick]

Without more definitive information my take is that everything is wired to the primary battery. The second battery appears to be for supporting the primary battery when it no longer has enough power to start the vehicle.

Thank you, thats what i had begun to suspect, but find a little disappointing. There seem to some conflicts with my modus operandi, Ill have to wait till mine arrives to decide how im going to approach this. Ive been impressed by the community enthusiasm for the CTEK products, and the 120s/D250se would address all my needs for the actual truck, but i feel strongly about the separation of powers, if you will, and willl need to get my hands on it before trying to plan any further ahead.

 

[TheDocAUS]

Ill have to wait till mine arrives to decide how im going to approach this.

The same conclusion I reached.

 

[Jmccmick]

That is not an easy question to answer because it depends on the options chosen and the model variations between countries. The best place to start is the 5 stud busbar on the secondary battery, then follow the wiring. Also look at the INTERIOR ELECTRICAL CENTRE (SECONDARY FUSE BOX 1B).

INEOS has released no wiring diagram to my knowledge.

As a broad observation, the optional accessories that come with the aux power option

Hadnt occurred to me that there might be variations between countries. I took for granted dual battery would equal dual battery wherever the truck was going. This will become a fun puzzle once it arrives, i had just been hoping to pick up some more items on boxing day sales, but thatll have to be boxing day 2024 now

 

[TheDocAUS]

I can tell you this much. It appears, two Littelfuse busbars are fitted to all vehicles (7 stud to the main and a 5 stud to secondary). When you have a single battery both busbars are being powered by the main battery. When the aux battery option is chosen you the second battery are now more cables come from the 5 stud busbar, but the two batteries are working together through the CTEK120S. If you add a 250SE things change again.

There are also additional fuse boxes fitted with the aux power option and the winch. The winch is wired off the main battery, but EXT2, EXT3, EXT4 and EXT 5 seem to come from the secondary battery.

 

[Jmccmick]

I can tell you this much. It appears, two Littelfuse busbars are fitted to all vehicles (7 stud to the main and a 5 stud to secondary). When you have a single battery both busbars are being powered by the main battery. When the aux battery option is chosen you the second battery are now more cables come from the 5 stud busbar, but the two batteries are working together through the CTEK120S. If you add a 250SE things change again.

There are also additional fuse boxes fitted with the aux power option and the winch. The winch is wired off the main battery, but EXT2, EXT3, EXT4 and EXT 5 seem to come from the secondary battery.

Nice work you and Jean with the fusebox threads, that'll save countless hours down the road. Ill try to contribute once i figure out what will work for us

 

[tristand]

I have traced all of the aux and power outlet wiring and made a few changes - this thread should explain it. In summary nothing (including aux outlets) is powered from the second battery by default - at least it wasn't on mine.

Thread 'Dual battery setup modifications' https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/dual-battery-setup-modifications.12413300/

Tristan

 

[Jmccmick]

I have traced all of the aux and power outlet wiring and made a few changes - this thread should explain it. In summary nothing (including aux outlets) is powered from the second battery by default - at least it wasn't on mine.

Thread 'Dual battery setup modifications' https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/dual-battery-setup-modifications.12413300/

Tristan

Fantastic! This is how i had imagined it being arranged, including the same bluesea fusebox. i especially like the high current inverter wires, we'll need to do better than the 400w from ineos and have been leaning towards a renogy 2000w and battery monitor. Does the victron shunt you installed allow monitoring of the primary battery as well? pictures on amazon look like it has an input for both

 

[tristand]

Fantastic! This is how i had imagined it being arranged, including the same bluesea fusebox. i especially like the high current inverter wires, we'll need to do better than the 400w from ineos and have been leaning towards a renogy 2000w and battery monitor. Does the victron shunt you installed allow monitoring of the primary battery as well? pictures on amazon look like it has an input for both

It allows monitoring of the voltage on a second battery but not current and capacity / soc.

Tristan

 

[MikeW]

There is a problem with the CTEK and a related safety notice. I reckon it might have something to do with it.

Product Safety Notice - SMARTPASS

www.ctek.com

 

[Znarfgh]

I'm not sure that the product has a problem - the Smartpass has been around since Moses was a pup and I have not heard of any issues before.

The major takeaway from the notice is that it's not short circuit protected and that a maximum of 50A can be linked to the Consumer output. I'm wondering if some numpty has not connected something with a heavy current draw to the Consumer output and caused a major incident which is resulting in Ineos blanking off the Consumer output. I remember some discussion about wiring inverters into the IG - perhaps somebody thought the Consumer output was a good place to connect it?

 

[Clark Kent]

There is a problem with the CTEK and a related safety notice. I reckon it might have something to do with it.

Product Safety Notice - SMARTPASS

www.ctek.com

The MY24 Owners Manual Supplement refers to the Smartpass 120S as a 'Battery Combiner'. The update incorporates some of the information from the CTEK safety notice.
MY24 Supplement thread is here if you haven't seen it.

 

[ADVAW8S]

Didn't someone here post about a auto electrian blowing out the whole system, even set off the 500amp fuse. We joked around that he needed to disconnect the battery before working on system. Maybe this is the response to the aftermath.

 

[MikeW]

That’ll do it.

Alas, anyone know why the Smartpass red wire is not connected to ACC? Installing the 250SE and noticed this today. Now I’m contemplating a seperate manager 30 because frankly, it’s all a bit strange.

 

[Jean Mercier]

I refer to the first post of this thread, my post number 15 and post 17 ..., all on the first page of this thread.

Last week I went to my workshop for my 20000 km periodic (preventive) maintenance, and they did the put a sticker on my smartpass that I am not allowed to use the consumer output, and did put the plastic "screw".

As I said, I removed the original screw before going to the workshop, and I asked NOT to glue the plastic screw.

In fact it isn't a screw! I is a cap, and has to be glued, otherwise it stays completely loose!


I am happy I kept the original screw

 

[AnD3rew]

I refer to the first post of this thread, my post number 15 and post 17 ..., all on the first page of this thread.

Last week I went to my workshop for my 20000 km periodic (preventive) maintenance, and they did the put a sticker on my smartpass that I am not allowed to use the consumer output, and did put the plastic "screw".

As I said, I removed the original screw before going to the workshop, and I asked NOT to glue the plastic screw.

In fact it isn't a screw! I is a cap, and has to be glued, otherwise it stays completely loose!
View attachment 7836877

I am happy I kept the original screw

I also kept the screw and put some anti sieze in there so that if they did try to glue it wouldn’t stick. In the end I don’t think they did glue, but if they did, my trick worked.

It’s looking more and more to me as if this 50amp restriction is the reason they did this, they claimed it wasn’t compatible with the INEOS setup but the only real way that makes sense is if they are worried that it will drain the second battery and they rely on that to start the main battery because all the other consumers come from that. However probably more likely is that they can’t restrict the amperage of what you connect to the consumer and are worried you might burn your Grenadier to the ground if you put too much load on it. Pretty happy that my fridge won’t endanger that at all, and I successfully ran my fridge from it for a couple of weeks on a trip.

 

[Mitchell300]

I also kept the screw and put some anti sieze in there so that if they did try to glue it wouldn’t stick. In the end I don’t think they did glue, but if they did, my trick worked.

It’s looking more and more to me as if this 50amp restriction is the reason they did this, they claimed it wasn’t compatible with the INEOS setup but the only real way that makes sense is if they are worried that it will drain the second battery and they rely on that to start the main battery because all the other consumers come from that. However probably more likely is that they can’t restrict the amperage of what you connect to the consumer and are worried you might burn your Grenadier to the ground if you put too much load on it. Pretty happy that my fridge won’t endanger that at all, and I successfully ran my fridge from it for a couple of weeks on a trip.

I did the same, only used Vaseline

 

[TheDocAUS]

However probably more likely is that they can’t restrict the amperage of what you connect to the consumer and are worried you might burn your Grenadier to the ground if you put too much load on it.

I would agree with that.

Dealers are already seeing some "unusual" wiring set ups. At least one is urging owners to use auto-electricians the owner trusts.

 

[NQ94]

Does "Unusual" wiring translate into to poor auto electrical work done by accessory shops and DIYers that lack knowledge, installs done on the cheap and ultimately these people should be kept away from tools?

 

[IG_in_AZ]

So with the information on this page, would any of you who have experience with such matters and the Grenadier's wiring setup (@TheDocAUS @AnD3rew ) say that it's safe or I'd be OK to have a stereo shop attach the amplifier main lead wire ( I think the amplifier, an Orion HCCA 250G4, is fused at 2x40A) to one of the terminals in the Fittlefuse busbar, appropriate to that draw? I'm trying to determine the safest way to attach my accessories - so far, a subwoofer amplifier, a Midland MTX575 radio (50Watt), and a backup camera (whatever it was everyone recommended, I bought one).