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Mark, the smartpass will work with a smart alternator if it's connected properly with it's red wire connected to 12 volts as this shows the device a smart alternator is utilised. The red wire of the D250SE is used in the same way to tell it that a smart alternator is being used. When in combination can charge up to 140amps which is impressive. See below images for smart alternator cable.It just doesn't do a good job of charging the service battery due to the smart alternator throttling back the voltage. The 250SE fixes that.
So why has that red wire not been utilised/connected?Mark, the smartpass will work with a smart alternator if it's connected properly with it's red wire connected to 12 volts as this shows the device a smart alternator is utilised. The red wire of the D250SE is used in the same way to tell it that a smart alternator is being used. When in combination can charge up to 140amps which is impressive. See below images for smart alternator cable.
Below is Jean's image showing red wire is not connected.. therefore smartpass does not know the vehicle has a smart alternator...
View attachment 7821119
This is the question.So why has that red wire not been utilised/connected?
Yes, can only be answered by Ineos, (as seems Ctek says it needs to be connected), maybe they have some other magic going on.So why has that red wire not been utilised/connected?
I plan to do the same as I do not want to rewire the cables that are now connected to the starter battery.Thank you everyone for the fantastic posts. Unfortunately, I am illiterate in auto electrics. Nevertheless, I plan to install a second cigarette box for my Engel fridge in the right backspace. Question: does it make sense to simply lay a fused cable directly from the auxiliary battery to protect the starter battery and only operate the refrigerator with it? Barney.
Maybe, will ask my dealer when the car arrives as I need the solar input ability but of course will be guided by what they say. Ctek say in combination suitable for a battery greater than 100ah - see attached.Maybe Ineos don't want a possible 80A flowing into a single 105Ah lead acid battery.![]()
Hopefully with time, someone will get to the bottom of this but currently the auxiliary battery doesn’t appear to be performing as expected. I’m not sure if the auxiliary battery is even charging properly off the alternator.
which then raises the question for those of us fitting the d205se for solar.... do we connect the red sense wire or not... another question for my dealer.... but then if the smartpass is not working as intended then.... crikey I'm with Bigleonski, how hard can this be....Here are screen shots from an email request from me and the reply from Ineos regarding this matter. I have posted before but probably in the Battery thread View attachment 7821148View attachment 7821149
same here red wire not connected petrol TMMark, the smartpass will work with a smart alternator if it's connected properly with it's red wire connected to 12 volts as this shows the device a smart alternator is utilised. The red wire of the D250SE is used in the same way to tell it that a smart alternator is being used. When in combination can charge up to 140amps which is impressive. See below images for smart alternator cable.
View attachment 7821117 View attachment 7821118
Below is Jean's image showing red wire is not connected.. therefore smartpass does not know the vehicle has a smart alternator...
View attachment 7821119
I am not 100% convinced they didn’t just make that up. But I don’t have the expertise required to properly test that.Here are screen shots from an email request from me and the reply from Ineos regarding this matter. I have posted before but probably in the Battery thread View attachment 7821148View attachment 7821149
In theory this shouldn’t be hard to do, the switches control relays to turn the power on and off. In theory you leave the relay in place but swap the power supply so that it comes from the load terminal of the smartpass. Whether or not this then throws a bunch of Canbus errors and complications is the question that will likely only be answered by the first brave soul to try it.Has anyone with a car explored the potential for isolating the circuits for roof and internal aux power?
hopefully they might be removed from the ‘back’ of the bus, and clipped into a (same brand) bus to be supplied from the smartpass load post. Not sure if that is simple, or heavy surgery.
…and of course to confirm that the ceiling ‘power’ switch would still control what then becomes powered from the secondary battery.
I have emailed Ctek with the details I posted above and asked about wiring requirements if I add the D250SE. I await their response. But I’m sure someone on this forum has had the D250SE added to their system already so maybe they will see this thread and clarify the situation.I am not 100% convinced they didn’t just make that up. But I don’t have the expertise required to properly test that.