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(The battery and monitor thread )Car dead in the middle of the woods

das mo

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Hi all.

Car is dead.

Battery was at 50% 2 hours back.
We now packed all together and car does not start.

Is there an Ineos support hotline I can call on a Sunday?

Thanks
 
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DCPU

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No it doesn’t. As others here have done, I emailed C-Tek and they have mailed me some but they don’t usually supply them as an accessory item, so we need to push INEOS to supply them as they are usually included in the box with the Smartpass I believe. However it would be easy to make up a couple of short cables and ring connectors using heavy duty cable.
Ineos' answer to me via the agent was "These come with the additional charger if you purchase it from CTEK". I've no idea if this is actually the case.
 
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Christoph

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I thought differently as it is only powered, if I switch on the overhead PWR switch, which only comes with the second battery setup.
Are you sure? My boot 12v socket has power when the ignition is on - without having any roof switches enabled.
 
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Hi all.

Car is dead.

Battery was at 50% 2 hours back.
We now packed all together and car does not start.

Is there ab Ineos support hotline I can call on a Sunday?

Thanks
Falls Du in Schweden einen Lade-Stopp benötigst, melde Dich gerne bei mir
 
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Tazzieman

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He will have a rocky relationship I suspect.
 
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Darby

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I’m just learning here, used to simpler electrical, but reading about the 120s/250se devices and beginning to be less confused…. Can we simply replace the 120s with the 250se?
it’s also looking like it might be good to re-wire all aux outlets and roof/footwell outlets to run off aux battery or ctek load terminal…
thoughts?
Re-wiring the aux outlets and roof outlets to the AUX battery are definitely in my interest. Ideally, I want the main battery for starting / running the car only, and the aux battery for all accessories. As the smartpass is designed to be used this way.
 
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bakepl

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Ineos' answer to me via the agent was "These come with the additional charger if you purchase it from CTEK". I've no idea if this is actually the case.
They come with the smartpass... Local Ctek were kind enough to send me a couple they had spare....
 
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Wilaspira

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For a complete incompetent whose Grenadier has an aux battery and the extra wiring but whose little (non-existent) knowledge and understanding has meant most [all] of the very helpful comments have gone right over my head, if someone has the patience to summarise a) whether the Ctek 250SE would be a very sensible addition to what I already have (I think this is the drift of what I have read), b) an idiots guide to what additional stuff I should buy and c) how this all should be fitted together, that would be great. I completely understand (and respect) that no-one might have that patience!
 
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ECrider

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Trobex will love this: after shelling out extra for a second battery to make sure he doesn’t get stuck he will have to shell out extra for third battery to make sure he doesn’t get stuck.
probably room in the RHD footwell for a fourth, just incase.
 
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I see in another post I can't find at present that the smartpass red wire that is normally connected if the vehicle has a smart alternator is not connected in the Ineos on the assumption the vehicle is managing alternator output to include charging of the aux battery. Perhaps the red wire does need connecting to 12 volts? Does anyone know if the 250se is added that its red wire will need connecting to indicate a smart alternator?
There's this but Ctek are thin on details in their videos, and their manuals!
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vT7rssXwx5M
 
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I posted these before but haven't found the post ... get two of these, one for each battery, they cost very little and you are able to see the SoC of your batteries on your mobile phone at any time + get a whole lot more about thier status including if they are being charged....
I bought one for the Aston as we don't use it that much in the winter, range is around 20M

BAT-TEST-bt.jpg


 
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Simon C

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Are you sure? My boot 12v socket has power when the ignition is on - without having any roof switches enabled.
Yep, remember you can have the extra switches/wiring without the auxillary battery (this is what I have) - I doubt the wiring changes when the aux battery is fitted
 
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Highwayman

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Ineos' answer to me via the agent was "These come with the additional charger if you purchase it from CTEK". I've no idea if this is actually the case.
I still have the Smartpass box at home. I recall it shows the 250 connectors are included in the box. Mine were not there, but I did get an empty box!
 
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Lollo050968

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I charge at the moment my Grenadier with CTEK MX 5.0 via Points under the Bonnet, after approximately 3h , smartpass start to charge the auxiliary battery.
SOC was at the beginning 85% on the console.
IMG_5452.jpeg
 
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Logsplitter

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I charge at the moment my Grenadier with CTEK MX 5.0 via Points under the Bonnet, after approximately 3h , smartpass start to charge the auxiliary battery.
SOC was at the beginning 85% on the console.View attachment 7821095
I do the same using the jump lead connection under the bonnet to Maintenance charge with smart charger or connect portable solar panels
 
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bemax

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Do you have a specific information within the setup menu regarding the fault?
I remember that I once noticed a list of all „active“ faults.
 
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DenisM

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Ineos' answer to me via the agent was "These come with the additional charger if you purchase it from CTEK". I've no idea if this is actually the case.
I don't know if
A bit late to this thread, but this is my experience using a fridge powered from the cigar socket in the boot space. I have the Auxiliary battery fitted with associated C-Tek from INEOS.

I drove to Munich from home (UK - circa 900 miles) so I think I can assume my starter battery and auxiliary battery were fully charged. I have a small Dometic CX35 in the rear, plugged into the cigar socket. I had no other electrical appliances connected.

I left my car in a hotel car park (underground - so no heat from sun) and after 40 hours the fridge had already gone into “safe” mode to prevent discharging the batteries too much. The fridge temperature had already risen to 11 degrees (c) so I guess it had already been off for an hour or two.

Car started as normal with no indication of problems (no warning lights etc). Sadly, I didn’t think to check the state of charge on the central screen, I was more pre-occupied as to whether the car would start or not, and was so happy when it did.

Since leaving Munich last Wednesday and driving back in the direction of home, I have used the car every day and the fridge has operated as normal.

So my conclusion is that the car needs to be used daily to be certain the fridge will continue to work.

Going into this, I had expected that I would have been sharing the load across two batteries and therefore be able to run the fridge for longer without driving the car. Clearly this was wrong.

Hope this helps the debate
Just a thought... while there's no sun, my experience of some underground carparks is that they can get quite warm due to "heat sink" from multiple engines all cooling down in a relatively confined space...of course it depends I guess on how busy the place is.... The ambient temperature in the vehicle also might have been sufficient to increase the duty cycle of the fridge due to it operating in a closed /sealed environment...
 
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