Personally I’m going with what Ineos supply using the built for purpose and form follows function analogies. But I guess the Australia’s will go with what they are used to or what is readily available at the right price.
Those are exactly the jumper cables i am after !!! If i cannot find a pair i will just chop up a new pair and stick a nato plug at the end !I keep wondering about those theoretical values.
In practise, the jump leads in the picture were supplied with a 15m coach ex works. They did the job for the bus no problem from what I know - and have certainly done it for me for the past five years.
View attachment 7811758
We jump started anything with them. Once, a 3l BMW diesel wouldn't want to fire up and the jump leads were used for about five minutes, more the less continuously, until they got the engine running.
Cables are 50mm2 and 2m in length.
Jump starting a small engine draws what, 200-300A..?..the 2kw starter motor of the BMW was more like 400-500A I guess, and a truck/bus engine starter can be inxs of 1000A I´d say.
After a few minutes of starting, the cables got a bit warm, ts it...
Running a winch of a NATO socket is equally uneventful. Done that for ten years in the sand, without a single failure..like this Ramsey-type 5000lb worm gear winch.
View attachment 7811765
The "NATO wiring" saves a lot of headaches and money in my book. What has been good for the military for decades, will outlast any consumer or even industrial grade stuff.
Personally I can't understand the desire for conversions to Anderson, once you are used/familiar with NATO, you´d probably want to convert your Anderson gear to NATO rather then vice versa.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but Anderson was originally a product for industrial applications and was only later adapted by enthusiasts for automotive use..?
I know, there are a lot of trailers in certain parts of the world with Anderson. Well, maybe they all get converted, eventually.... After all, you guys are getting used to the 13-pin trailer sockets too...
That’s what we did 15 years ago! Plus an NATO plug under the drivers seat of the Defender to provide an extra short cable to the battery.
post#33 says only that the NATO socket CAN be wired with max. 50mm² cabling. Hopefully the Grenny has internally a cabling with 50mm² to the NATO socket.
So are you suggesting that after spending AUD$120,000 on the vehicle, that spending another AUD$450 is the line in the sand?You better, they cost an arm and a leg, $250-400, or more, depending on length and diameter, like those in 35mm
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It seems your transmitter would use around the same power as the removable winch which the wiring is designed for so should be OK
Well I've checked it this morning and the screen is displaying a charge of 96% and a voltage of 12.8v. It was measured at the starter battery at 12.8v also, but with the ignition off:
Would be interesting to see if it would be cheaper to get the components separatey ie nato male socket , cables (photovoltaic guys usually have good prices ) , and crocodiles . Xmmm …
I just bought a NATO plug and cut of the crocodiles from one end of the starter cable.
Let’s hope the wiring and fusing of the rear NATO socket will allow the sort of amperage needed for jump starting another vehicle now that you have cut the crocodile clips off.
I cut it long ago for my Defender, so I don’t care to much. On the Defender I just wanted to have a possibility to jumpstart someone without removing my seat. I have another jumpstart cable with both crocodiles still on both sides.
Not being overly sparkie orientated and a bit naive in these things, my issue with using the NATO plug socket connected to croc clips as a jump starter cable is - when I plug in, how do I know the red cable is actually the pos and the black cable neg? After all the plug can go into the 2-pin socket either way, or doesn't it matter. Apologies if it's a stupid question.
Sorry I don’t know much about NATO plugs and sockets but I would be surprised if it could go in either way! Until someone can work out what that circuit is fused at I would hold off on making those leads up. As per earlier post the NATO plug as far as I’m aware is there primarily to power the rear removable winch which has max 150amp load. So if that circuit is only fused to suit that current loading then it may not be suitable for jump leads. For me I’ll be using the dedicated live post under the bonnet if I have to use jump leads at any point. Thats just my understanding of it. Hope that helps.
I’ve just looked at the pictures on post 33 as I’ve never used NATO plugs only Anderson and they can only be located together one way as I suspected otherwise you could have disastrous consequences
Thanks!I’ve just looked at the pictures on post 33 as I’ve never used NATO plugs only Anderson and they can only be located together one way as I suspected otherwise you could have disastrous consequences
Yes it's now charging the aux, the charger is mimicing the alternator, the Smartpass flicks to the aux once the main is looked after.
