NATO Plug,Socket

[Logsplitter]

The

I'll probably fit an 175A Anderson plug near the NATO and use the NATO's cabling - the NATO will just stay in place disconnected. The NATO's cabling is 50mm², the Anderson takes up to 53mm². It'll power the DC charger in the van and portable air compressor. Anderson is the cheaper way to go.

only problem I find with Anderson plugs is they get full of grit and crap. From what I can gather the NATO plugs are not so prone to this, although the price difference makes Anderson more attractive

 

[DCPU]

You would need to know how your car is wired. You may only be able to trickle charge the aux battery.

I would try and wire an Anderson plug into any onboard charger to get all its safety features.

It's all a bit of an unknown at the moment but given that the auxiliary battery system is a separate option from the high load, then the NATO socket must be wired to the starter battery in at least some circumstances. Who knows if that is then changed for an auxiliary battery setup?

However, if it is then there's a feature of the Smartpass that should mean it should make no difference - the auxiliary battery trickle charges the starter battery to compensate for the self-discharge of the starter battery when the voltage of the auxiliary is higher than than that of the starter battery and the voltage of the starter is low (from the CTEK User manual - but I don't see a definition of the "low" trigger voltage for the starter).

 

[DCPU]

Yes Eric the duel batteries, if it could be done via the 13 pin all good. I just want a waterproof access so I can have the charger in the garage and the grenny outside.

I have that solution for you - it's what I'm using, or rather going to be using when I move it off the old Defender.

I'll take some photos this morning and post back later.

 

[DCPU]

The

only problem I find with Anderson plugs is they get full of grit and crap.

That's usually because nobody bothers with the various plugs and covers available.

 

[PBD]

I have that solution for you - it's what I'm using, or rather going to be using when I move it off the old Defender.

I'll take some photos this morning and post back later.

Thanks. This is what the forum is great at well done and to Stu as well for making it all possible. In years to come I will consider my lifetime membership a bargain.

 

[MarkH]

The

only problem I find with Anderson plugs is they get full of grit and crap. From what I can gather the NATO plugs are not so prone to this, although the price difference makes Anderson more attractive

I silicone the back end and use covers. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1857421...d=link&campid=5338980679&toolid=20001&mkevt=1

 

[PBD]

Problem Solved
So, this morning I tightened up all the star bolts on the inner wing liners and mud flaps like you guys have suggested, 50% at least needed tightening. Been on and of a few times me thinks!
Anyway, all doors etc were open and I was sitting on my wall at the back of the truck thinking, the edge of the big door looks a bit odd. Took a while but then the penny dropped, there is an extra bit of trim on the bottom left hand corner where the big and small doors fit together, the rubber seal of which is hollow and pre sliced. Now I suspect it is for pressure equalising but guess what fits in it, my power cable! Had to slam the little door a bit, but not by much, CTec 10 now in truck on left hand battery ( looking from front) window open a bit whilst its charging, 4 lights lit up, screen says 90%.
Will it blow up

 

[DCPU]

Thanks. This is what the forum is great at well done and to Stu as well for making it all possible. In years to come I will consider my lifetime membership a bargain.

I see you've worked a solution; but I'll offer you this as an alternative:


I checked both battery voltages before and after connection, and can confirm that this setup charges the main starter battery. Both the voltage was up on the starter battery and the Smartpass went into standby mode, whereas it has been pulse charging from the auxiliary battery to the starter battery previously: :

 

[Logsplitter]

I see you've worked a solution; but I'll offer you this as an alternative:

View attachment 7811604View attachment 7811605View attachment 7811606View attachment 7811607

Well done that man. Did you have to have the high load 500A switch on in the roof panel. ?

 

[DCPU]

I silicone the back end and use covers. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1857421...d=link&campid=5338980679&toolid=20001&mkevt=1

If it works, it works.

I like to use the boots on the back and a hard plastic cover for the front - the wire lanyard works better in my applications:

 

[DCPU]

Well done that man. Did you have to have the high load 500A switch on in the roof panel. ?

No - this is via the towing electrical socket with no main power switch or anything else switched.

I should add the chap who makes up the CTEK to 13 pin plug includes a nice laminated card to hopefully stop you driving off with it all still connected:

 

[Logsplitter]

Or these I did use the wired ones for my Bundutop tent and solar panels though

 

[Logsplitter]

No - this is via the towing electrical socket with no main power switch or anything else switched.

Thanks. I should have taken more notice of your photo. On closer inspection I see that you’ve connected to the trailer socket

 

[Logsplitter]

I want to have a 16A/blue mains plug fitted to my Grenadier so that I can plug in at camp sites or on my driveway which would then power a permanently wired Ctek smart charger and mains lead to my fridge , this is the setup I had on my Defender and worked well for me. I just need to find a suitable access point for the cable to enter into the vehicle. Don’t really want to be drilling holes into the body work but would be quite happy to come up through the floor. I don’t want any kit that isn’t locked or bolted down outside the vehicle because of the risk of theft.

 

[PBD]

I see you've worked a solution; but I'll offer you this as an alternative:
View attachment 7811604View attachment 7811605View attachment 7811606View attachment 7811607

I checked both battery voltages before and after connection, and can confirm that this setup charges the main starter battery. Both the voltage was up on the starter battery and the Smartpass went into standby mode, whereas it has been pulse charging from the auxiliary battery to the starter battery previously: :
View attachment 7811612

Well done that's a good set up. Once the main battery is charged, will the second one get charged up with these systems?

 

[DCPU]

I honestly don't know - I'll leave it plugged in overnight and try and take some measurements in the morning to see.

 

[PBD]

I honestly don't know - I'll leave it plugged in overnight and try and take some measurements in the morning to see.

SNAP apart from the measurements!

 

[Burki]

The rear NATO plug is wired, from the factory, for 500 amps to run the rear winch

500 amps means cabling with 108 mm² (which I don´t belive it´s done in the Grenny for the NATO plug).
Does anybody really check, how the cabling for the NATO plug with xx mm² is done?

 

[TheDocAUS]

500 amps means cabling with 108 mm² (which I don´t belive it´s done in the Grenny for the NATO plug).
Does anybody really check, how the cabling for the NATO plug with xx mm² is done?

I did ask the dealer and he said it was wired for 500amps. We can only confirm by looking at a production vehicle.

 

[Mitchell300]

500 amps means cabling with 108 mm² (which I don´t belive it´s done in the Grenny for the NATO plug).
Does anybody really check, how the cabling for the NATO plug with xx mm² is done?

Check out post #33 in this thread. Cable is 50 mm2.