Check your NATO plug

[drinkmorejava]

Checked mine today. It was on snuggly, and no ovbious water or corrosion, but man are the threads oxidizing all on their own. The inside of the cap was coated in powder from the oxidation. I put on lanoloin and it went back on smoothly. I also discovered it threaded on meaningfully more with the grease. I wonder if these things just aren't seated all the way from the factory because the cheap threads are binding.

 

[Tazzieman]

I wouldn't be surprised.... It's labelled a NATO plug by Ineos..... "imitation NATO style" plug might be more accurate. The quality of the cover is disappointingly 'lightweight' and "crude" in its finish.

Clever person might be able to ABS 3D print a better cap?

 

[Clark Kent]

I did a quick online search including Oz Unimog forum and couldn't find anything about NATO plug corrosion/ leak issues. Is the Ineos one made of inferior alloy?

I wouldn't be surprised.... It's labelled a NATO plug by Ineos..... "imitation NATO style" plug might be more accurate. The quality of the cover is disappointingly 'lightweight' and "crude" in its finish.

My first career included operating and repairing Unimogs and I can honestly say I used the 2-pin NATO socket zero times so it's unsurprising to me that no one is talking about it over in Mog-land.

The socket on the Grenadier is made by Maehler and Kaege. Their name is cast into the cap. M&K are one of two German companies (with Elke Technik) that produce high current charging connectors against Defence Standard VG-96917. It's a standard catalogue part available on an NSN. Of course it could be a bogus knock-off copy from Temu but I doubt it.

VG-96917 calls for IPX4 water resistance and corrosion and salt spray resistance. Something is not quite working there but these parts are covered by the vehicle warranty so if they become defective talk to your dealer or agent.

Anyone who wants to address this at the material level should look for a paint-on corrosion conversion product like ACF-50 or M-CR 1201 Alodine. Aviation, marine or motorcycle shops will have something suitable. An aluminium cleaner or polish will not help. You need a corrosion conversion product. The mechanical action of removing and installing the cap is going to wear away at a protective coating so it's a process that would need to be repeated periodically.

A preventative maintenance action is to clean the cap and body with some hot soapy water and a small brush (buy her a new toothbrush afterwards ) Scrub, rinse and dry the parts thoroughly then apply a water repelling product like lanolin or petroleum jelly on the threads, not the cap gasket. If you have a silicon equivalent then go at it.

 

[Clark Kent]

My first career included operating and repairing Unimogs and I can honestly say I used the 2-pin NATO socket zero times so it's unsurprising to me that no one is talking about it over in Mog-land.

The socket on the Grenadier is made by Maehler and Kaege. Their name is cast into the cap. M&K are one of two German companies (with Elke Technik) that produce high current charging connectors against Defence Standard VG-96917. It's a standard catalogue part available on an NSN. Of course it could be a bogus knock-off copy from Temu but I doubt it.

VG-96917 calls for IPX4 water resistance and corrosion and salt spray resistance. Something is not quite working there but these parts are covered by the vehicle warranty so if they become defective talk to your dealer or agent.

Anyone who wants to address this at the material level should look for a paint-on corrosion conversion product like ACF-50 or M-CR 1201 Alodine. Aviation, marine or motorcycle shops will have something suitable. An aluminium cleaner or polish will not help. You need a corrosion conversion product. The mechanical action of removing and installing the cap is going to wear away at a protective coating so it's a process that would need to be repeated periodically.

A preventative maintenance action is to clean the cap and body with some hot soapy water and a small brush (buy her a new toothbrush afterwards ) Scrub, rinse and dry the parts thoroughly then apply a water repelling product like lanolin or petroleum jelly on the threads, not the cap gasket. If you have a silicon equivalent then go at it.

Call this Part 3...

I took a long look at my own NATO socket to come up with a sealing arrangement to prevent water getting into the threads. I'm not having this problem but it seems that many are.

My suggested solution is to install a 2nd gasket to seal the lip edge of the cap. A 50mm (~2") Camlock Gasket is a perfect fit. Example. I paid A$1.50 at a local rural water equipment business.

This gasket (actually a square profile o-ring) is made from Buna rubber so is unaffected by many chemicals and definitely not bothered by detergents and salty road spray or water. It's a firm fit but once it is in place the gasket is lightly squeezed between the cap lip and the body to close off the void where I suspect water is pooling then wicking into the cap.

I dropped the gasket into some hot (not boiling) water for a few minutes then worked it into place behind the body threads. There's a square shoulder for it to sit against and that's your target; to push the gasket up against the shoulder so it sits just behind the body threads.

If you're having problems with water in your NATO socket try this fix. Clean up any corrosion as per my post above, install this gasket, put some lube on the threads plus a dab on the lip of the cap. Screw the cap on firm but not tight and I am confident you will never stress about it again.

A Camlock is typically used for quick connection of fluid hoses. See the last pic. You need the internal gasket that is flat on both sides.

 

[Tazzieman]

Nice and simple , no mess. Better than trying a peanut butter jar lid.

 

[Clark Kent]

Nice and simple , no mess. Better than trying a peanut butter jar lid.

Let's not be too hasty. Crunchy or smooth?

 

[Tazzieman]

Let's not be too hasty. Crunchy or smooth?

Not sure. TBH I think it's got mixed up with the Vegemite one.

 

[DenisM]

Call this Part 3...

I took a long look at my own NATO socket to come up with a sealing arrangement to prevent water getting into the threads. I'm not having this problem but it seems that many are.

My suggested solution is to install a 2nd gasket to seal the lip edge of the cap. A 50mm (~2") Camlock Gasket is a perfect fit. Example. I paid A$1.50 at a local rural water equipment business.

This gasket (actually a square profile o-ring) is made from Buna rubber so is unaffected by many chemicals and definitely not bothered by detergents and salty road spray or water. It's a firm fit but once it is in place the gasket is lightly squeezed between the cap lip and the body to close off the void where I suspect water is pooling then wicking into the cap.

I dropped the gasket into some hot (not boiling) water for a few minutes then worked it into place behind the body threads. There's a square shoulder for it to sit against and that's your target; to push the gasket up against the shoulder so it sits just behind the body threads.

If you're having problems with water in your NATO socket try this fix. Clean up any corrosion as per my post above, install this gasket, put some lube on the threads plus a dab on the lip of the cap. Screw the cap on firm but not tight and I am confident you will never stress about it again.

A Camlock is typically used for quick connection of fluid hoses. See the last pic. You need the internal gasket that is flat on both sides.

I suggest Clark Kent's thorough explanation and solution with the cam-lock gasket make a worthy addition to Rok-dr's "unofficial owner's manual"

 

[Emil]

i am very grateful for the technically detailed instructions, but i am already failing to open the cap. Tried with WD40 but the cap still refuses to move. Do I miss something or is simply more force needed? How much force can it take?

 

[Tazzieman]

i am very grateful for the technically detailed instructions, but i am already failing to open the cap. Tried with WD40 but the cap still refuses to move. Do I miss something or is simply more force needed? How much force can it take?

Channel lock pliers or pipe wrench wrapped around a cloth. Don't crush it, just apply enough friction and rotational force. The leverage will break it free.

 

[ECrider]

Call this Part 3...

I took a long look at my own NATO socket to come up with a sealing arrangement to prevent water getting into the threads. I'm not having this problem but it seems that many are.

My suggested solution is to install a 2nd gasket to seal the lip edge of the cap. A 50mm (~2") Camlock Gasket is a perfect fit. Example. I paid A$1.50 at a local rural water equipment business.

This gasket (actually a square profile o-ring) is made from Buna rubber so is unaffected by many chemicals and definitely not bothered by detergents and salty road spray or water. It's a firm fit but once it is in place the gasket is lightly squeezed between the cap lip and the body to close off the void where I suspect water is pooling then wicking into the cap.

I dropped the gasket into some hot (not boiling) water for a few minutes then worked it into place behind the body threads. There's a square shoulder for it to sit against and that's your target; to push the gasket up against the shoulder so it sits just behind the body threads.

If you're having problems with water in your NATO socket try this fix. Clean up any corrosion as per my post above, install this gasket, put some lube on the threads plus a dab on the lip of the cap. Screw the cap on firm but not tight and I am confident you will never stress about it again.

A Camlock is typically used for quick connection of fluid hoses. See the last pic. You need the internal gasket that is flat on both sides.

that is the fix I was looking for, thank you