CTEK SMARTPASS 120S and 250SE DC to DC charger basic features and install information

[KDJDGrenadier]

You don't want to use the dedicated 40A compressor circuit already installed?

I did not know that DCPU. Do you know where i can find that?

 

[TheDocAUS]

I did not know that DCPU. Do you know where i can find that?

There is a 40 amp circuit in the battery compartment, with bare wires, if you choose the aux power option. It can handle a single ARB compressor, but a twin ARB compressor requires two 40 amp fuses.

 

[DaveB]

Given the 80A output, something like this would work well:
View attachment 7825958

Blue Sea Systems 5056 ST-Blade Water-Resistant Fuse Block With Screw Cover

Blue Sea Systems 5056 IP66 water-resistant standard blade fuse block accepting a wide range of cable sizes. Corrosion resistant for use in marine environments.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

How much wading are you planning on doing that you will need a bilge pump and a fish finder????????

 

[KDJDGrenadier]

There is a 40 amp circuit in the battery compartment, with bare wires, if you choose the aux power option. It can handle a single ARB compressor, but a twin ARB compressor requires two 40 amp fuses.

DocAUS are these the wires and do you use the black and brown wires?

 

[TheDocAUS]

They are the wires. Here is the link to what each wire does here. Thanks to @Highwayman

 

[KDJDGrenadier]

They are the wires. Here is the link to what each wire does here. Thanks to @Highwayman

Thanks so much DocAUS

 

[DCPU]

How much wading are you planning on doing that you will need a bilge pump and a fish finder????????

It's for those with safari windows

 

[bakepl]

Could you explain how you used the signal wire from the 40a supply in the battery compartment. I’m aware where the 40supply is for the compressor that seems to be permanently live but I can’t get my head around how you used that signal wire to turn on the rear solenoid for the nato plug. Thanks

There are 3 wires as below in the battery compartment to run a compressor. Two wires carry +12v and negative. The third smaller wire is a 12v 'ignition on' signal wire intended to activate a relay (to power up a compressor or similar).

I have not touched the +12v or negative at this stage as I do not require them.

I took the 'ignition on' signal wire from this location to the + side of the Albright solenoid located behind the back right panel as this solenoid is used to power up the Nato plug (via whatever steps to turn on the winch)

Remove the '+12v in' small signal wire of the Albright solenoid (green wire in my vehicle) and safely tape it up. Replace this with the signal wire from the compressor.

When you start the car you will activate the Albright solenoid and have power at the Nato.

Yes the Nato will always be live when your car is running but I prefer it this way to power my van and most Anderson plugs in Aus will be wired similarly. Note that I have the front winch installed and perhaps consider replacing the fuse on this Nato circuit to suit your purpose.

Image of taking up (compressor) ignition signal wire from battery compartment.

Image of replacing green + signal wire on the Albright solenoid with the compressor signal wire (that is now the smaller red wire). Spade connector is used on the solenoid. Note this isn't the finished product - tidied it up a little later.

 

[Logsplitter]

There are 3 wires as below in the battery compartment to run a compressor. Two wires carry +12v and negative. The third smaller wire is a 12v 'ignition on' signal wire intended to activate a relay (to power up a compressor or similar).

I have not touched the +12v or negative at this stage as I do not require them.

I took the 'ignition on' signal wire from this location to the + side of the Albright solenoid located behind the back right panel as this solenoid is used to power up the Nato plug (via whatever steps to turn on the winch)

Remove the '+12v in' small signal wire of the Albright solenoid (green wire in my vehicle) and safely tape it up. Replace this with the signal wire from the compressor.

When you start the car you will activate the Albright solenoid and have power at the Nato.

Yes the Nato will always be live when your car is running but I prefer it this way to power my van and most Anderson plugs in Aus will be wired similarly. Note that I have the front winch installed.

Image of taking up (compressor) ignition signal wire from battery compartment.
View attachment 7826033

Image of replacing green + signal wire on the Albright solenoid with the compressor signal wire (that is now the smaller red wire). Spade connector is used on the solenoid. Note this isn't the finished product - tidied it up a little later.
View attachment 7826034

Brilliant thankyou.

 

[bakepl]

I did not know that DCPU. Do you know where i can find that?

Mid rear of the battery compartment. 3 wires. (I've attached a red wire to the signal wire. Other 2 wires are 12v + and -)

 

[Logsplitter]

Mid rear of the battery compartment. 3 wires. (I've attached a red wire to the signal wire. Other 2 wires are 12v + and -)

View attachment 7826037

If I’m thinking correctly then that signal wire that is live when the ignition is on could be used to connect the smartpass or Ctek D250SE smart alternator cable if so required.

 

[bakepl]

If I’m thinking correctly then that signal wire that is live when the ignition is on could be used to connect the smartpass or Ctek D250SE smart alternator cable if so required.

Correct. Before I connect the Ctek to signal I'll see how it all performs however Ctek did state 'if you don't know if your car has a smart alternator or not then just connect the signal wire'. (and it'll use it or not) Thing for me is I can't finish off the car as I'm chasing the missing pins from the 13 trailer socket (or find a cut off socket that I can scavenge the pins from and re-use - quite frustrating.)

 

[Logsplitter]

Correct. Before I connect the Ctek to signal I'll see how it all performs however Ctek did state 'if you don't know if your car has a smart alternator or not then just connect the signal wire'. (and it'll use it or not) Thing for me is I can't finish off the car as I'm chasing the missing pins from the 13 trailer socket (or find a cut off socket that I can scavenge the pins from and re-use - quite frustrating.)

I’m not doing anything to my Grenadier until after I’ve lived with it for a few months. Just saving up all the ideas in my head before deciding what to do.

 

[DCPU]

Remove the '+12v in' small signal wire of the Albright solenoid (green wire in my vehicle) and safely tape it up. Replace this with the signal wire from the compressor.

One thing slightly puzzles me. The control feed for the Albright solenoid is switched by an earlier relay which is rated at 30A.

The control feed for the compressor can't be providing that sort of current for a 40A circuit.

Edit: Scratch that ~ just checked and the winch pre-relay output is fused at just 5A.

 

[KDJDGrenadier]

One thing slightly puzzles me. The control feed for the Albright solenoid is switched by an earlier relay which is rated at 30A.

The control feed for the compressor can't be providing that sort of current for a 40A circuit.

DCPU I was just thinking about the gauge of those three wires set aside for the compressor. They are quite small so starting to wonder if they are meant to deliver the current needed for a compressor. Might have to take the 40A fuse out and meter it to see if it is in fact a direct connection to the 40A fuse.FL13

 

[Tazzieman]

How much wading are you planning on doing that you will need a bilge pump and a fish finder????????

Have you seen that guy on 4x4 24/7 channel who actually has a bilge pump with outlet through the back window?
Some folk are just more committed than others!

 

[Tazzieman]

This is getting ridiculous. I don’t really believe that the Grenadier doesn’t have a smart alternator. I can come up with at least half a dozen theories and ideas but none are useful without some actual information from INEOS.

I don't have my car , but is the simple check mentioned here enough to confirm it does have the smart alternator?
https://www.redarcelectronics.com/a...r-have-a-smart-alternator-test-method-redarc/

 

[AnD3rew]

I don't have my car , but is the simple check mentioned here enough to confirm it does have the smart alternator?
https://www.redarcelectronics.com/a...r-have-a-smart-alternator-test-method-redarc/

Based on this yes

Thread 'Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS)'
https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/intelligent-battery-sensor-ibs.12412930/

 

[DCPU]

DCPU I was just thinking about the gauge of those three wires set aside for the compressor. They are quite small so starting to wonder if they are meant to deliver the current needed for a compressor. Might have to take the 40A fuse out and meter it to see if it is in fact a direct connection to the 40A fuse.FL13

I think that's already been done by @Logsplitter (and maybe others):
Post in thread 'Right Hand side auxiliary footwell 12V wire' https://www.theineosforum.com/threa...ry-footwell-12v-wire.12412344/post-1333185871

But it doesn't hurt to confirm for yourself before using them. Size wise they look OK to me for that current.

 

[ADVAW8S]

My CTek 250SE arrived today. Im still a 1yr plus before my Grenadier shows up but i was able to save $100 by getting a open box from Amazon. Opened up the box( in mint condition) and it is brand new, no scrapes, no marks on the bolts, manual in perfect condition. I feel like someone ordered it from Amazon and sent it back because it wasn't what they needed. The package came from Amazon warehouse which just reprocesses the returns without looking at them. Rolled the dice and came up winner.

Now have two things for it, AA Wireless controller and the Ctek