CTEK SMARTPASS 120S and 250SE DC to DC charger basic features and install information

[Tinki]

Ctek legends came through . Straight from Sweden. Ctek d250 on order with a black sheep bracket . Thanks to your bad influence guys , keep it coming !!!

 

[AnD3rew]

For the Australians 4wd Superstore has D250SE on sale for $199 again.

D250SE $199

 

[Greg]

For the Australians 4wd Superstore has D250SE on sale for $199 again.

D250SE $199

and if you are an ebay plus member the postage is covered and an extra $5 off if you buy off their ebay store

 

[DCPU]

Wow ~ how can they knock them out for that...seems a superb deal.

 

[Michael H.]

Wow ~ how can they knock them out for that...seems a superb deal.

My understanding is that this particular retailer is no longer a CTEK distributor and is clearing their existing stock.

 

[Rooballer]

My understanding is that this particular retailer is no longer a CTEK distributor and is clearing their existing stock.

Either way, I picked one up, not sure if I’ll use it, but couldn’t walk past at that price.

 

[Michael H.]

Either way, I picked one up, not sure if I’ll use it, but couldn’t walk past at that price.

I got one too.

 

[AnD3rew]

I got one last time they had this special

 

[Tinki]

At that price if I hadn’t bought one it would make sense to pay import fees for . Would still be cheaper than what i paid . Ahahah .

 

[Darby]

For the Australians 4wd Superstore has D250SE on sale for $199 again.

D250SE $199

Cheers, just ordered! If you use their welcome promo code (WELCOME10) on their website you get another $10 off (accounts for shipping).

 

[Logsplitter]

For people that have installed the D250SE how is it working out without the ignition cable attached ?
Also I notice that it can only handle an open circuit voltage of 23v which is much lower than stand alone mppt controllers. In my research of solar panels before I commit to buying the D250SE I see that many of the premium monocrystalline semi flexible solar panels have open circuit voltages higher than 23volts. I’m interested to see what solar panels people are fitting to their Grenadier with the D250SE fitted.

 

[TD5-90]

Jean

Jean

Response from Ctek, which I think may muddy the water further.

Hello Miles,
I've asked out technicians about your question and received a response form them:
"Grenadier has no smart alternator. SMARTPASS is to recharge the Service battery, maintenance charge the starter battery and as a start assist function."

I confess to now being lost - but do have a shiny ctek branded 120 smart pass that came with the vehicle (twin battery option), a red cable unconnected, a 250se in readiness for solar etc, and 2 bus bars kindly supplied FOC by Ctek.

Am I incorrect in thinking Ineos have removed the smart alternator, for a std one? hence ctek installing white label 120’s?.

If so, then the red cable IS redundant, but I assume all other wiring to include 250 is relevant, and I can run a fridge from the 120 as ctek show in thier dwgs?.

Info from CTEK is definitely wrong. From my own observation, the Gren _has_ a "smart" alternator: Cruising at 100km/h, slightly accelerating => batt voltage drops to 14.1V. Foot off the pedal =>batt voltage immediately rises to 14.8...15.0V. Everybody (with a Gren, of course ;-) ) can easily test this with the Gren on-board "electric" info panel.

I am also in contact with CTEK regarding the 120/250 combination, but have not received technically satifying information. I bought a 250 already and will install it, with 2 EFB batts I think the setup is ok & does make sense.
But: I plan to replace the aux EFB with a Li, and here, IMHO, the issues start with the Smartpass120: Having close to 15V coasting/going downhill, and having those 15V directly, without current limiting, "smartpassed" to the Li, will not be good. Either the Li BMS will turn the battery off due to overvoltage, or uncontrolled current will flow. The D250SE, which, as a true charger, features current control and voltage limiting. Having >14.2V (Li-mode) present at its output, however, it will be turned off. Being "smartpassed" anyway, it will be left inoperable.

Latest suggestion from CTEK was to get rid of the 120 and replace it with another 250, then having true controlled 40A max and safe voltage limit at 14.2V....

 

[K1LL3M]

Info from CTEK is definitely wrong. From my own observation, the Gren _has_ a "smart" alternator: Cruising at 100km/h, slightly accelerating => batt voltage drops to 14.1V. Foot off the pedal =>batt voltage immediately rises to 14.8...15.0V. Everybody (with a Gren, of course ;-) ) can easily test this with the Gren on-board "electric" info panel.

I am also in contact with CTEK regarding the 120/250 combination, but have not received technically satifying information. I bought a 250 already and will install it, with 2 EFB batts I think the setup is ok & does make sense.
But: I plan to replace the aux EFB with a Li, and here, IMHO, the issues start with the Smartpass120: Having close to 15V coasting/going downhill, and having those 15V directly, without current limiting, "smartpassed" to the Li, will not be good. Either the Li BMS will turn the battery off due to overvoltage, or uncontrolled current will flow. The D250SE, which, as a true charger, features current control and voltage limiting. Having >14.2V (Li-mode) present at its output, however, it will be turned off. Being "smartpassed" anyway, it will be left inoperable.

Latest suggestion from CTEK was to get rid of the 120 and replace it with another 250, then having true controlled 40A max and safe voltage limit at 14.2V....

If you're going to remove the 120 for any reason, and particularly if you are going to put a Li battery in, surely a redarc (or similar) Li 50a dcdc would be a better option that 2x 250s

 

[Clark Kent]

Did my D250SE installation today to gain solar charge input.
I used the Blacksheep winged bracket (M1, 5 seat).
Made my own bus bars from 2mm X 16mm copper bar.
Temperature probe was attached next to the auxiliary battery positive terminal.
Red and black sense wires on the D250SE were not connected. Black wire remains disconnected for wet chemistry batteries including EFB.
I will probably connect both red wires (Smartpass 120S and D250SE) once I can monitor the voltage and charge rate on the auxiliary battery. That's a project for another time.

 

[TD5-90]

If you're going to remove the 120 for any reason, and particularly if you are going to put a Li battery in, surely a redarc (or similar) Li 50a dcdc would be a better option that 2x 250s

Yes, I also think so. I have a similar setup (Victron Isolated Charger and LionTron LiFePO4) in my VW T3 camper, mentioned that elswhere here.
But for now, I think it's reasonable to use the EFB aux till it's worn out. Decent charger will come with the LiFePO4.

 

[DCPU]

For people that have installed the D250SE how is it working out without the ignition cable attached ?

Here's a bit of data from my Victron Smartshunt, attached to the auxiliary battery and also monitoring the starter battery voltage.

On engine start the voltage of starter battery jumps, as I assume the alternator kicks in and starts charging the starter battery. The auxiliary battery voltage also jumps, but is @10 seconds behind the starter battery:

The starter battery settles down to taking 46A and the auxiliary battery is taking 13.5A concurrently.

 

[DCPU]

When the engine is switched off the D250SE stays illuminated and appears to continue to power the auxiliary battery for a period of time before switching off and the power drops to zero:

 

[bakepl]

When the engine is switched off the D250SE stays illuminated and appears to continue to power the auxiliary battery for a period of time before switching off and the power drops to zero:
View attachment 7826417

cheers, be interesting to see charge rates when the Aux is say 60% and car is then driven for an hour or more....

 

[CountyV8]

Here's a bit of data from my Victron Smartshunt, attached to the auxiliary battery and also monitoring the starter battery voltage.

On engine start the voltage of starter battery jumps, as I assume the alternator kicks in and starts charging the starter battery. The auxiliary battery voltage also jumps, but is @10 seconds behind the starter battery:
View attachment 7826412

The starter battery settles down to taking 46A and the auxiliary battery is taking 13.5A concurrently.
View attachment 7826411View attachment 7826413

46 AMPS I only get 9 tops I suspect something is wrong always got the charger on it

 

[TD5-90]

46 AMPS I only get 9 tops I suspect something is wrong always got the charger on it

Same with me. Reconditioned and 100% charged both batteries after picking up the vehicle. SOC says close to 100% mostly, charging current is negligible (<10A). Always travel 50km+, no short range driving, strárt/stop always disabled.
So, that's how it all should be. Why do you think you have a problem? To me it all looks perfect!