General Coolant hose ~ damage / holed

[255/85]

There does look to be enough room to get a jack under the transfer case despite the size of the big X-shaped crossmember. Look at 3:30 in this video.

On level ground with the wheels chocked and E-brake "on" it should be safe enough to remove the front & rear prop shafts/drive shafts. With a jack in place supporting the transfer case and the crossmember removed, begin lowering the rear of the drive train slowly. Remember to open the hood and monitor for any interference in the engine bay. The front engine mounts should not be disconnected in the field. The rest of the drivetrain will (should) pivot on the those front mounts. Watch for strained electrical or fluid connections to the trans/t-case/etc. I'd rather do it with a floor jack but even the smaller aluminum models take up a lot of space. A bottle jack - even on soft ground - with a good jack base should work. Lower just until a confirmation of the leaking hose can be made then bypass or replace as you can. This is just a very generalized summary - not a technical writeup - in case someone has to do it before a real fix is found. YMMV.

Additional Warnings: You will get dirty. Do not put a jack under the plastic transmission pan. Oh. and disconnect the negative connections to your batteries.

 

[Tazzieman]

This is just a very generalized summary - not a technical writeup - in case someone has to do it before a real fix is found. YMMV.

What you're saying is that it's a "rite of passage" for the serious offroader

 

[255/85]

What you're saying is that it's a "rite of passage" for the serious offroader

Well, certainly the "You will get dirty" part because ->

 

[Woodley]

Just prior to Christmas I was on my way to have parts that were ordered with the vehicle fitted by the dealer. The dealer is 140klm from home and about 50 klm into the trip the temperature gauge shot to 130°C , slowing down the temperature dropped to 90°C so I thought ok, probably just a glitch along with the other annunciator warnings. As soon as I increased speed the temp shot back up and finally put the vehicle into limp mode. Pulled over and immediately saw the problem, burst radiator hose. With just over 9500klm I was destined to see the vehicle on a flat top and dropped at the dealer for repair. Contacted Ineos road side assist and within 90 minutes a truck had arrived to take us to the dealer. Turns out the coolant hose had been rubbing on the condenser fan shroud, developed a pin hole then finally burst. I saw this as a simple fix but it took almost 3 weeks for the replacement hose to arrive. The hose was re-routed clear of the shroud. The Ineos road side assist program is excellent with a hire vehicle provided for the duration. With the vehicle in for so long the dealer gave the vehicle a full service, oil change etc and ironed out some of the issues that had presented. The software upgrade fixed 95% of the problems with the only issues being the service interval annunciater remaining on (they haven't yet figured out how to turn it off) and the map freeze , which can be extremely frustrating.
We have just completed another 3000 odd klm over the Christmas break and had no mechanical issues and absolutely love Grenadier.
Happy New Year to you all

 

[MrMike]

Just prior to Christmas I was on my way to have parts that were ordered with the vehicle fitted by the dealer. The dealer is 140klm from home and about 50 klm into the trip the temperature gauge shot to 130°C , slowing down the temperature dropped to 90°C so I thought ok, probably just a glitch along with the other annunciator warnings. As soon as I increased speed the temp shot back up and finally put the vehicle into limp mode. Pulled over and immediately saw the problem, burst radiator hose. With just over 9500klm I was destined to see the vehicle on a flat top and dropped at the dealer for repair. Contacted Ineos road side assist and within 90 minutes a truck had arrived to take us to the dealer. Turns out the coolant hose had been rubbing on the condenser fan shroud, developed a pin hole then finally burst. I saw this as a simple fix but it took almost 3 weeks for the replacement hose to arrive. The hose was re-routed clear of the shroud. The Ineos road side assist program is excellent with a hire vehicle provided for the duration. With the vehicle in for so long the dealer gave the vehicle a full service, oil change etc and ironed out some of the issues that had presented. The software upgrade fixed 95% of the problems with the only issues being the service interval annunciater remaining on (they haven't yet figured out how to turn it off) and the map freeze , which can be extremely frustrating.
We have just completed another 3000 odd klm over the Christmas break and had no mechanical issues and absolutely love Grenadier.
Happy New Year to you all

The service annunciator should have been rectified the dealer when the service was completed. You *should be able to reset this unless it's a software problem.
The hose issue on the fan shroud seems to be very common.

 

[AnD3rew]

There does look to be enough room to get a jack under the transfer case despite the size of the big X-shaped crossmember. Look at 3:30 in this video.

On level ground with the wheels chocked and E-brake "on" it should be safe enough to remove the front & rear prop shafts/drive shafts. With a jack in place supporting the transfer case and the crossmember removed, begin lowering the rear of the drive train slowly. Remember to open the hood and monitor for any interference in the engine bay. The front engine mounts should not be disconnected in the field. The rest of the drivetrain will (should) pivot on the those front mounts. Watch for strained electrical or fluid connections to the trans/t-case/etc. I'd rather do it with a floor jack but even the smaller aluminum models take up a lot of space. A bottle jack - even on soft ground - with a good jack base should work. Lower just until a confirmation of the leaking hose can be made then bypass or replace as you can. This is just a very generalized summary - not a technical writeup - in case someone has to do it before a real fix is found. YMMV.

Additional Warnings: You will get dirty. Do not put a jack under the plastic transmission pan. Oh. and disconnect the negative connections to your batteries.

Nice thank you. BTW these cars don’t have an “E-brake” it is a manually operated cable handbrake.

 

[Tazzieman]

Nice thank you. BTW these cars don’t have an “E-brake” it is a manually operated cable handbrake.

E brake is what they call a handbrake in NA. "Emergency brake"...
Like "driving stick" it's just weird language!

 

[AnD3rew]

E brake is what they call a handbrake in NA. "Emergency brake"...
Like "driving stick" it's just weird language!

Aaah, yes I think I had heard that before now you mention it. Wierd

 

[Tazzieman]

Except after C

 

[255/85]

I haven't really heard it called a "handbrake" in years even though that's how they were actuated on many cars and 4x4s until more recently.

A lot of vehicles in the States come with an extra pedal that controls the emergency brake - aka E-brake. Full sized pickups and big sedans used to be set-up this way. Basically you can only stomp it "on" in an emergency or when parking (parking brake is another term that gets used). Then there's a separate hand release mechanism which always seems to be difficult to reach for some reason. You almost need three legs and three arms to use it as a hill hold device when driving a manual transmission because you now have four different pedals in the well. I pretty much hate the system but I see the point of your legs being stronger than your arms when applying the rear brakes in a potential brake system failure. That really doesn't happen much any more with dual reservoir master cylinders. I guess it's just a holdover. And nowadays we have push button electronic parking brakes which confuse me completely. Having a true handbrake is a very big selling point for us with the Grenadier. Sorry for the confusion.

E brake is what they call a handbrake in NA. "Emergency brake"...
Like "driving stick" it's just weird language!

Actually we say "driving a stick" as leaving out the determiner sounds slightly, uh, neanderthal to our ears. We don't say "go to bar" for example - it's "go to the bar".

Just part of the interesting difference between how us Yanks see our environs and how many Commonwealth people see theirs. I doubt that I can make this very clear but, going back to the example above, I saw it this way when I traveled in Britain/Ireland long ago: The local pub was more of an "experience" where family, friends, and even the whole community might gather. Like Shangri-La. Like "Home".

Here a bar is just a place to drink. Like "house".

 

[Tazzieman]

Actually we say "driving a stick" as leaving out the determiner sounds slightly, uh, neanderthal to our ears. We don't say "go to bar" for example - it's "go to the bar".

IME on car forums for many years I've only ever seen it termed "driving stick".
And before you think I'm into neanderthal (we call them bogan , or in NA redneck) cars , my flavours have been vintage Porsches and Benzes!
Driving a stick is something I do many times when propping up my tomatoes each year!

 

[DenisM]

The service annunciator should have been rectified the dealer when the service was completed. You *should be able to reset this unless it's a software problem.
The hose issue on the fan shroud seems to be very common.

When I collected my vehicle following the unexpected call to swap the transfer case, the Service Manager mentioned in passing that they'd also done some work on outstanding "service campaigns", but the conversation went in a different direction and so I didn't quite understand the implication , nor did I follow it up.
Now that my strengthened garage wooden floor is finally completed and fit for purpose , despite the torrential rain the past few days, I was able to crawl under the Gren. in comfort and take note: double nutted sway bar was installed , and as I perused the fluid hoses, I noted numerous "precision" green and yellow markings on the hoses attached to which are several stand off clips which securely position the hose(s) clear of other structures especially the fan shroud . Where the hoses "cross" each other, they are secured with clips to hold them apart and prevent them abrading each-other. From previous photos I'd taken, these are all improvements... excellent service from the Brisbane dealer!

 

[Tazzieman]

Yes there are many paintmarks and many clips. Some of the hoses are quite vulnerable, and close to hard structures. I'm making a habit of ducking under and giving everything the eye, plus of course plenty of large zipties in the toolbox for any emergencies.

 

[Chadd7]

I bought this "harness tape" which is usually used for electrical applications but is highly heat resistant and sticky. Wrapped the coolant hoses in areas where there was contact with metal. I was able to identify only 2. Inexpensive. Extra layer of protection. Hope it holds. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I2MLN2Q/?tag=globalgrena0b-20

 

[Woodley]

The service annunciator should have been rectified the dealer when the service was completed. You *should be able to reset this unless it's a software problem.
The hose issue on the fan shroud seems to be very common.

The dealer tried a rest but to no avail. They spoke with Ineos direct and then connected with them remotely and still no luck

 

[A sweaty Grenadier]

Grenadier kms: 1200 location: Western Australia, My coolant leak:
Took the dogs to the dog beach on Sunday (no 4x4ing) and got back home, parked in the garage and was cleaning the inside out when I heard a ‘depressurisation’ of fluid under and saw it was light green, continued to leak for a few minutes and stopped. I waited for the car to cool down than got underneath and tried locating the leak which was difficult and still not 100% sure, leak is on the LHS where some sort of cooler is next to the transmission but above the 2 hoses to the small cooler, I believe the leak is coming from the hose above the 2 hoses going to the small cooler looks like and I’m unsure of the hose but I believe it’s 1/2” or 5/8” hose running from somewhere in the engine bay (LHS) to back towards the transmission and runs near top of the transmission/bellhousing (this hose was not properly secured and was just contacting and resting on the transmission and other parts) , I’ll post photos of leak but was very limited with space under the car (I could either look up to try find the source or put one arm/hand up to feel around)

Also: looking under the grenadier LHS there is a hose that runs over a mount with a large protective thing around it that I’m guessing is suppose to stop the hose from contacting the mount but for whatever reason the protective bit had moved and the hose was contacting the mount and there was several other hoses that were rubbing/contacting other parts.

Sorry about the long post/comment and if I have got any information incorrect.

Update: my grenadier is still at the dealership since 22nd of December, hopefully get it back this week. My VIN (last 6 digits) 003050 for anyone whose interested.

 

[MrMike]

Update: my grenadier is still at the dealership since 22nd of December, hopefully get it back this week. My VIN (last 6 digits) 003050 for anyone whose interested.

Did they say what the issue was?

 

[A sweaty Grenadier]

Did they say what the issue was?

Coolant hose between overflow coolant tanks split/burst

 

[Trialmaster]

I wonder if anyone is developing silicone coolant hoses for the Grenadier? http://classicsiliconehoses.uk/

 

[OGrid]

Coolant hose between overflow coolant tanks split/burst

I had that and it was fixed in 5 days.

What issue/s have they encountered??