Weld a 2m piece of thick steel pipe to the end of the shovel
Makes for harder shovelling (but better muscles) , and you don't need a huge torque wrench!
Weld a 2m piece of thick steel pipe to the end of the shovel
Still a bit off topic but based these times on averages from other similar vehicles. Could be like a 70series and the service interval is 20k km wheel bearing repack which is needed in extreme service and loaded increased gvm applications but can comfortably go to 80k to 100 k km for normal service. 200 to 250km is about the average for Hilux etc that do mixed heavy work, regular off road and daily driver. Some do 400k km+ doing normal daily work no heavy towing or full gvm off road work.
Likewise.
Do I see one wide bearing and it is not centered?This is a strange system to my eye. The claim is greater durability but the suboptimal offset of the bearing in relation to the wheel mounting surface (WMS) is no better than modern unit bearings I am more familiar with. Worse to my uneducated brain than old fashioned spindle/hub arrangements that had the WMS roughly centered between the inner and outer bearings. I watched several videos on bearing replacement (none were specifically Grenadier related) and all I came away thinking was "That's a lot of work to not throw out a hub when a wheel bearing goes bad and there are still no guarantees you won't have to if the hub is out of spec". Component 18 in the diagram - if similar to the Grenadier axle - is especially odd but possibly reassuring. It appears to provide a secondary sealed space (along with component 10) for the bearing (12) that will be pressed into the knuckle (not shown) but I can't e sure.
I'm wondering just how big of a bottle jack you can fit into the Grenadier's jack space? Could you pull off a bearing replacement with a Hi-Lift if truly desperate?
Such a killjoy.
Still off track from original post. Remember this is the larger Carraro axle as a reference just to show some of the repair differences that will be encountered on the Grenadier compared to the common similar repairs on the 4x4s we are used to. On the Grenadier the brake disc is mounted on the outside of the hub flange not the inside like the Iveco so brake jobs will be cheaper with no hub and wheel bearing disassembly.This is a strange system to my eye. The claim is greater durability but the suboptimal offset of the bearing in relation to the wheel mounting surface (WMS) is no better than modern unit bearings I am more familiar with. Worse to my uneducated brain than old fashioned spindle/hub arrangements that had the WMS roughly centered between the inner and outer bearings. I watched several videos on bearing replacement (none were specifically Grenadier related) and all I came away thinking was "That's a lot of work to not throw out a hub when a wheel bearing goes bad and there are still no guarantees you won't have to if the hub is out of spec". Component 18 in the diagram - if similar to the Grenadier axle - is especially odd but possibly reassuring. It appears to provide a secondary sealed space (along with component 10) for the bearing (12) that will be pressed into the knuckle (not shown) but I can't e sure.
I'm wondering just how big of a bottle jack you can fit into the Grenadier's jack space? Could you pull off a bearing replacement with a Hi-Lift if truly desperate?
Such a killjoy.
I've changed wheel bearings and hubs in many vehicles.This is a strange system to my eye. The claim is greater durability but the suboptimal offset of the bearing in relation to the wheel mounting surface (WMS) is no better than modern unit bearings I am more familiar with. Worse to my uneducated brain than old fashioned spindle/hub arrangements that had the WMS roughly centered between the inner and outer bearings. I watched several videos on bearing replacement (none were specifically Grenadier related) and all I came away thinking was "That's a lot of work to not throw out a hub when a wheel bearing goes bad and there are still no guarantees you won't have to if the hub is out of spec". Component 18 in the diagram - if similar to the Grenadier axle - is especially odd but possibly reassuring. It appears to provide a secondary sealed space (along with component 10) for the bearing (12) that will be pressed into the knuckle (not shown) but I can't e sure.
I'm wondering just how big of a bottle jack you can fit into the Grenadier's jack space? Could you pull off a bearing replacement with a Hi-Lift if truly desperate?
Such a killjoy.
I'm having the exact same experience. Just took mine in for the second time for them to take a look at how the car pulls hard to the left when accelerating. They assured me everything was great after they checked alignment.... sure enough, on the drive home it is still auto lane changing when accelerating. I'm wondering if it could be the tires.
I would take it to an independent shop, preferably someone that is familiar with Jeeps, and have them do an alignment.
A lot of discussion regarding the steering and many theroies and possible solutions . I found the steering vauge or fluffy or something I was not quite used to and found my self prefering my old disco 2 td5 to drive when I needed to go some where , I am not saying the IG is bad but I just did not like the feel of chasing it on of Victorias top class straight but bumpy roads . Today I took it to a steering specialist and asked if he could check the castor and increase it if it was low , he took it for a test drive and when he came back he said the same thing ,there is nothing wrong wit the steering but it could be better . He put it on the machine and it was in spec but on the low side ,1.5 on the left and 2 and a bit on the right , so he adjusted it up to the max spec of 3.5 on both front wheels and got it within .5 of a degree . He also checked the rear and it was in spec but not the same on both sides which He said would give it that wandering feeling so He evened that up and I drove a completly different car home , steering felt solid and no chasing on our excelent bumpy /rough roads best $77 I have ever spent
Where was your steering specialist?
It makes me wonder how, on a solid axle, can caster be adjusted differently for different sides.
It makes me wonder if some of our vehicles have had the steering stabilizer over torqued and essentially crushing the bracket and preventing free range of motion of the stabilizer. Thus necessitating the need to open up the bracket to install the fox stabilizer. Hopefully @ZemTyrion can give some insight on the part about opening the bracket.
Did you get any sense that the original steering stabilizer might bind in the bracket if it was overtightened?
Your drawing is top notch, appreciate it! I would love to try your vehicle out and compare it, I'm in the Denver Metro Area... half way to Boulder.
Good point. Axle housing and knuckle manufacturing tolerances is all I can think of that might present different readings, but no amount of eccentric bolt adjustment is going to eliminate that. Sounds like old mate maxxed out the available castor adjustment and got a more consistent side to side 2nd reading after adjustment. In the process he may have unwittingly eliminated a minor left versus right wheelbase mismatch which would create a crabbing force and contribute to wandering due to tracking.
