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Steering and Poor Stability

The bracket is just a little narrow for what you are shoving in there, particularly because there are two fat washers, so you need to line up the holes in all three at the same time. This was the only tricky part of the install, and why I put it on my lift after starting on the garage floor. But what I eventually worked out would probably have worked on the floor.

Without the damper, I partially threaded the bolt back into place in the bracket. Then I used a bearing puller to shove the bolt in all the way. The nut is welded onto the bracket, so this pushed the two plates apart. I let it sit like that for a few minutes. It was just enough to get everything in there. I think once you see it this will make sense, but I'm going to make use of my incredible Paint skills here. The goal is to just spread apart the C bracket a little bit. Also, I don't know how to draw a bearing puller.

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Top job. It's owners making this extra effort to help others that sets this forum aside from others 👏

Agile's instructions show a flange nut on the back of that C bracket. My Feb 2023 build RHD vehicle also has a flange nut.
You note a welded nut on your vehicle. I'm not questioning your post, just curious if there has been an engineering change?

Screenshot_20240419-085627.jpg
 
Did you get any sense that the original steering stabilizer might bind in the bracket if it was overtightened?
No, I don't think it was being pinched or anything like that. I think just what was being put back in was a few millimeters wider.
 
Top job. It's owners making this extra effort to help others that sets this forum aside from others 👏

Agile's instructions show a flange nut on the back of that C bracket. My Feb 2023 build RHD vehicle also has a flange nut.
You note a welded nut on your vehicle. I'm not questioning your post, just curious if there has been an engineering change?

View attachment 7853541
Yes, a change. I remember that clearly because I spent 15-20 minutes looking for a second 21mm wrench or socket (my tools are just scattered around for some reason), and then I only needed one.
 
Yes, a change. I remember that clearly because I spent 15-20 minutes looking for a second 21mm wrench or socket (my tools are just scattered around for some reason), and then I only needed one.
To be fair, the number of people with more than one 21-mm wrench or socket is rather limited, even on this board :)
 
Where was your steering specialist?
Horsham Vic . I tend to avoid tyre retailers for steering issues but it was at an inderpendant tyre seller , this bloke doing the alignment specialises in steering and is not a tyre fitter and had done other work for me . If you search around a bit you should find somebody to do it ,also avoid franchised steering retailers they will want to sell you a complete overhaul with lots of their parts
 
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It makes me wonder how, on a solid axle, can caster be adjusted differently for different sides.
I understand what you are saying but the amount of adjustement is small and if you imangine that if you only adjusted one side it would in effect put a twist ( or move the other side to a different setting, one affects the other) , thats where experince and patience comes into play and why it is almost impossible to get them both the same if you are playing with half of a degree . I hope that sort of explains it but it is hard to do without waving my arms . Also not all f solid axle set ups can be adjusted by turning an offset bolt system .
 
What do we think about the rubber bellows getting ripped?
 
What do we think about the rubber bellows getting ripped?
They want to sell products, so I consider any comments with that in mind.

Not on my to do list at this time (it might never be). With the fitout done, the car is heavier and even better behaved on the road now.
 
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They want to sell products, so I consider any comments with that in mind.

Not on my to do list at this time *it might never be). With the fitout done, the car is heavier and even better behaved on the road now.
The steering damper was one of the things I first considered and was going to remove it and see if there was any difference on road but never did ,still might try it out of interest sake but as I said it is a completly different car to drive and I am happy with it .
 
A few thoughts on solid axles and tires. It took me years to get used to the Power Wagon. On my Montero with SAS I hold on for dear life every time I drive it, so that does not count. But I have found tires to be a huge influencer. A few rules;

1. Find the right air pressure. Less then factory setting no doubt, but not TOO LOW or you will get cupping.
2. Rotate tires at least 2x during the life of the tires, I never rotated a tire ever on IFS.
3. Do not fall for the cheap tire trick, everyone does at some point. Stick with BFG M/T, A/T
4. If anything significant is out of whack with your tires your rig will handle poorly. I have been to the point of being SCARED, and yet nothing has even worn out on my Power Wagons suspension at 175K miles, it was when tires had issues.
5. The worst case scenario can be bad, but less then driving home with a bent up IFS front end if you have done that before.
6. The steering stabilizer helps, but not if you have a real problem.
 
A few thoughts on solid axles and tires…. A few rules;

1. Find the right air pressure. Less then factory setting no doubt, but not TOO LOW or you will get cupping.
I will also share that after dropping from dealer pressures to 36F/40R there was no change in handling. It still drove great but the tires were softer.
 
Hopefully I cross paths with an owner of an unstable Grenadier. Right now I just scratch my head. Mine is tight, dare I say sporty, and I often drive with one hand.
Can 100% confirm this now; drove just shy of 950mi home yesterday (probably 600 of me driving, 350 of the better half driving). The steering definitely isn't like everything else, honestly it feels similar (but much sportier) to driving an F450.

With that being said, cruised at speeds as high as 90mph (during a short, ahem, jaunt through Mexico), and even with the tire pressures set to full load (didn't feel like adjusting before leaving the dealer) it was super planted, not tiring, and totally stable with 1 finger on the wheel (or none if straight). My only issue is personally tuning my mind away from the ridiculous turn angle that my Sprinter has compared to the Grenadier, as I "missed" my first few attempts at parking spaces.
 
All this chatter of a radical change in vehicle handling by merely changing tire psi 5-10 points is odd, especially on something with solid axles, so much unsprung weight, and large volume heavy sidewall tires.

Going from 35 to 40 psi in 6000 pound truck on an E rated sidewall wouldn't be noticeable. It would be like playing the Pepsi challenge with 4 cups of Pepsi. If I had a truck that went from dangerous high speed handling to calm by changing a few PSI, I's sell it, because something is waaaaaaay out of wack.

My goal isn't to insult anyone, but, I think this is pure placebo effect here.
 
All this chatter of a radical change in vehicle handling by merely changing tire psi 5-10 points is odd, especially on something with solid axles, so much unsprung weight, and large volume heavy sidewall tires.

Going from 35 to 40 psi in 6000 pound truck on an E rated sidewall wouldn't be noticeable. It would be like playing the Pepsi challenge with 4 cups of Pepsi. If I had a truck that went from dangerous high speed handling to calm by changing a few PSI, I's sell it, because something is waaaaaaay out of wack.

My goal isn't to insult anyone, but, I think this is pure placebo effect here.
At least it'a placebo for free, and it's not going hurt or damage anything.
 
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