You now can’t use the Smartpass consumer output

Jackattack13 said:

After reading all 11 pages, I have come to the conclusion that Ineos just wired everything backwards in comparison to what a majority of us would do. Isolate the starter battery from the house battery and use the house battery for all the toys and gizmos. At this point I would be more inclined to just install a Blue Sea ML ACR Smart Solenoid and call it a day, or if using lithium install a Redarc DC to DC charger with solar inputs. That will have to wait until my warranty is up for that one to happen.

I don't think that Ineos did the plastic plug mod to slight anyone, rather to cover their own asses in the case of liability. This community is much more inclined to make aftermarket modifications, so its a solid way to CYOA and not get sued if someone burns their car down from hooking up a 2500 watt inverter to that plug. Just act like the plug never existed and use a battery terminal on the house battery or main battery. I am still torn on whether I want my fridge on my main battery or the house battery for the risk of draining down both. Although my fridge has a low voltage cutoff, I would prefer not to roll the dice. LOL

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Ragman said:

Any issues with electronics once the batteries are disconnected? I replaced the battery in my daughter’s Mazda and it triggered two warning lights that ultimately had to be reset by dealer.

Click to expand...

Ragman said:

Any issues with electronics once the batteries are disconnected? I replaced the battery in my daughter’s Mazda and it triggered two warning lights that ultimately had to be reset by dealer.

Click to expand...

Ragman said:

Any issues with electronics once the batteries are disconnected? I replaced the battery in my daughter’s Mazda and it triggered two warning lights that ultimately had to be reset by dealer.

Click to expand...

AnD3rew said:

For the moment I have decided to give in to the INEOS philosophy and am just running the fridge from the rear cigarette plug. I have attached an Anderson plug to the second battery and run to the rear load space but just using that for the portable compressor atthe moment with the car running. I may mess with this again in the future of better information and understanding emerges but for now I have decided to have faith.

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das mo said:

Good luck to all of us as connecting my fridge to the 12v plug in the trunk had me stranded in the woods with empty batteries. Was planning to plug it into the Smartpass this summer.

As there has been no findings why the Smartpass did not protect the starter battery to allow the car to start, I am hoping the software update did the trick.

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Jackattack13 said:

After reading all 11 pages, I have come to the conclusion that Ineos just wired everything backwards in comparison to what a majority of us would do. Isolate the starter battery from the house battery and use the house battery for all the toys and gizmos. At this point I would be more inclined to just install a Blue Sea ML ACR Smart Solenoid and call it a day, or if using lithium install a Redarc DC to DC charger with solar inputs. That will have to wait until my warranty is up for that one to happen.

I don't think that Ineos did the plastic plug mod to slight anyone, rather to cover their own asses in the case of liability. This community is much more inclined to make aftermarket modifications, so its a solid way to CYOA and not get sued if someone burns their car down from hooking up a 2500 watt inverter to that plug. Just act like the plug never existed and use a battery terminal on the house battery or main battery. I am still torn on whether I want my fridge on my main battery or the house battery for the risk of draining down both. Although my fridge has a low voltage cutoff, I would prefer not to roll the dice. LOL

Click to expand...

das mo said:

Good luck to all of us as connecting my fridge to the 12v plug in the trunk had me stranded in the woods with empty batteries. Was planning to plug it into the Smartpass this summer.

As there has been no findings why the Smartpass did not protect the starter battery to allow the car to start, I am hoping the software update did the trick.

Click to expand...

Ragman said:

Any issues with electronics once the batteries are disconnected? I replaced the battery in my daughter’s Mazda and it triggered two warning lights that ultimately had to be reset by dealer.

Click to expand...

Tom109 said:

Does your fridge have a built-in low voltage cut-off?

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AnD3rew said:

Odd, how long did you leave it running without starting the car? I have had my fridge running overnight many times and batteries have been fine. I do keep a Noco jumpstarter in the car in case of emergencies though

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(The battery and monitor thread )Car dead in the middle of the woods

Hi all. Car is dead. Battery was at 50% 2 hours back. We now packed all together and car does not start. Is there an Ineos support hotline I can call on a Sunday? Thanks

www.theineosforum.com

AnD3rew said:

attach things like fridges and camp lights and inverters etc to your second battery to preserve the starting battery when camped

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DenisM said:

If you're going to use the fridge while you're driving for a few days, just plug it into the rear outlet. If you're camping for a few days without the engine running,
* then run the fridge from a battery box and recharge with solar;
* or install a Ctek D250S or D250SE to recharge the main and aux. batteries via a solar panel/ blanket and connect fridge to the rear outlet.
It's all perfectly explained elsewhere here

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emax said:

Isn't that the opposite of how they designed the system?

As far as I understand it, the idea is that the aux battery should support the main battery when the charge is low and therefore no consumers should be connected to the aux battery.

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das mo said:

3 nights -

(The battery and monitor thread )Car dead in the middle of the woods

Hi all. Car is dead. Battery was at 50% 2 hours back. We now packed all together and car does not start. Is there an Ineos support hotline I can call on a Sunday? Thanks

www.theineosforum.com

It was till the end of a long trip where we had no issues with the setup for weeks. But as opening doors makes the car prep for starting and I have been observing voltage drops via my battery monitors post trip, have the car sitting somewhere for days in a camping setup with the fam opening doors a lot, seems to mess with the Ineos power mgmt.

Bought a jumpstarter post the trip.

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AnD3rew said:

3 days will drain most systems, but yes a good system should shut off your fridge before you are left with no starting capacity

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emax said:

Isn't that the opposite of how they designed the system?

As far as I understand it, the idea is that the aux battery should support the main battery when the charge is low and therefore no consumers should be connected to the aux battery.

Click to expand...