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You now can’t use the Smartpass consumer output

After reading all 11 pages, I have come to the conclusion that Ineos just wired everything backwards in comparison to what a majority of us would do. Isolate the starter battery from the house battery and use the house battery for all the toys and gizmos. At this point I would be more inclined to just install a Blue Sea ML ACR Smart Solenoid and call it a day, or if using lithium install a Redarc DC to DC charger with solar inputs. That will have to wait until my warranty is up for that one to happen.

I don't think that Ineos did the plastic plug mod to slight anyone, rather to cover their own asses in the case of liability. This community is much more inclined to make aftermarket modifications, so its a solid way to CYOA and not get sued if someone burns their car down from hooking up a 2500 watt inverter to that plug. Just act like the plug never existed and use a battery terminal on the house battery or main battery. I am still torn on whether I want my fridge on my main battery or the house battery for the risk of draining down both. Although my fridge has a low voltage cutoff, I would prefer not to roll the dice. LOL
For the moment I have decided to give in to the INEOS philosophy and am just running the fridge from the rear cigarette plug. I have attached an Anderson plug to the second battery and run to the rear load space but just using that for the portable compressor atthe moment with the car running. I may mess with this again in the future of better information and understanding emerges but for now I have decided to have faith.
 
Any issues with electronics once the batteries are disconnected? I replaced the battery in my daughter’s Mazda and it triggered two warning lights that ultimately had to be reset by dealer.
 
Any issues with electronics once the batteries are disconnected? I replaced the battery in my daughter’s Mazda and it triggered two warning lights that ultimately had to be reset by dealer.
I had a few lights the 2nd time I isolated my batteries (x2) but they cleared within a few minutes of driving. Was a while ago so I cannot recall which lights stayed on. Nothing that needed agent intervention though.
 
Any issues with electronics once the batteries are disconnected? I replaced the battery in my daughter’s Mazda and it triggered two warning lights that ultimately had to be reset by dealer.
No issues for me.
 
Any issues with electronics once the batteries are disconnected? I replaced the battery in my daughter’s Mazda and it triggered two warning lights that ultimately had to be reset by dealer.
I had to disconnect the main battery many times to kill alerts that did not stop.

Few times it gave me some flashing buttons and stuff for few min, but all good.
 
For the moment I have decided to give in to the INEOS philosophy and am just running the fridge from the rear cigarette plug. I have attached an Anderson plug to the second battery and run to the rear load space but just using that for the portable compressor atthe moment with the car running. I may mess with this again in the future of better information and understanding emerges but for now I have decided to have faith.
Good luck to all of us as connecting my fridge to the 12v plug in the trunk had me stranded in the woods with empty batteries. Was planning to plug it into the Smartpass this summer. ;)

As there has been no findings why the Smartpass did not protect the starter battery to allow the car to start, I am hoping the software update did the trick.
 
Good luck to all of us as connecting my fridge to the 12v plug in the trunk had me stranded in the woods with empty batteries. Was planning to plug it into the Smartpass this summer. ;)

As there has been no findings why the Smartpass did not protect the starter battery to allow the car to start, I am hoping the software update did the trick.
Does your fridge have a built-in low voltage cut-off?
 
After reading all 11 pages, I have come to the conclusion that Ineos just wired everything backwards in comparison to what a majority of us would do. Isolate the starter battery from the house battery and use the house battery for all the toys and gizmos. At this point I would be more inclined to just install a Blue Sea ML ACR Smart Solenoid and call it a day, or if using lithium install a Redarc DC to DC charger with solar inputs. That will have to wait until my warranty is up for that one to happen.

I don't think that Ineos did the plastic plug mod to slight anyone, rather to cover their own asses in the case of liability. This community is much more inclined to make aftermarket modifications, so its a solid way to CYOA and not get sued if someone burns their car down from hooking up a 2500 watt inverter to that plug. Just act like the plug never existed and use a battery terminal on the house battery or main battery. I am still torn on whether I want my fridge on my main battery or the house battery for the risk of draining down both. Although my fridge has a low voltage cutoff, I would prefer not to roll the dice. LOL
@tristand has an interesting post here how he modified it: link here

I'll see, perhaps after warranty I will do it, or earlier if I really have problems with the "standard Ineos" battery set-up.
 
Good luck to all of us as connecting my fridge to the 12v plug in the trunk had me stranded in the woods with empty batteries. Was planning to plug it into the Smartpass this summer. ;)

As there has been no findings why the Smartpass did not protect the starter battery to allow the car to start, I am hoping the software update did the trick.
Odd, how long did you leave it running without starting the car? I have had my fridge running overnight many times and batteries have been fine. I do keep a Noco jumpstarter in the car in case of emergencies though
 
Any issues with electronics once the batteries are disconnected? I replaced the battery in my daughter’s Mazda and it triggered two warning lights that ultimately had to be reset by dealer.
No. Disconnected and swapped (interchanged) both batteries in an attempt to get the car running after breaking down on my very first ride home from the dealer (root cause was a loose ground braid from chassis to xfer case, as reported elswhere here). No trouble.
 
Does your fridge have a built-in low voltage cut-off?
Yes.

It s an Engel SB30 - SB30 manual

IMG_0332.jpeg

Engel suggests to connect the fridge directly to tze second battery (page 11), but with the little info given by Ineos I was going for the 12V plug last summer.
 
Odd, how long did you leave it running without starting the car? I have had my fridge running overnight many times and batteries have been fine. I do keep a Noco jumpstarter in the car in case of emergencies though
3 nights -


It was till the end of a long trip where we had no issues with the setup for weeks. But as opening doors makes the car prep for starting and I have been observing voltage drops via my battery monitors post trip, have the car sitting somewhere for days in a camping setup with the fam opening doors a lot, seems to mess with the Ineos power mgmt.

Bought a jumpstarter post the trip. ;)
 
I'm really looking forward to picking up my Grenadier and asking the dealer while on the lot - "So, how do you recommend I hook up my refrigerator to the dual battery system?" Prediction - "Ummmmmmm . . . . Well , , , , ,"
 
If you're going to use the fridge while you're driving for a few days, just plug it into the rear outlet. If you're camping for a few days without the engine running,
* then run the fridge from a battery box and recharge with solar;
* or install a Ctek D250S or D250SE to recharge the main and aux. batteries via a solar panel/ blanket and connect fridge to the rear outlet.
It's all perfectly explained elsewhere here😉
 
attach things like fridges and camp lights and inverters etc to your second battery to preserve the starting battery when camped
Isn't that the opposite of how they designed the system?

As far as I understand it, the idea is that the aux battery should support the main battery when the charge is low and therefore no consumers should be connected to the aux battery. 🤔
 
If you're going to use the fridge while you're driving for a few days, just plug it into the rear outlet. If you're camping for a few days without the engine running,
* then run the fridge from a battery box and recharge with solar;
* or install a Ctek D250S or D250SE to recharge the main and aux. batteries via a solar panel/ blanket and connect fridge to the rear outlet.
It's all perfectly explained elsewhere here😉
Yes, correct. I just connect a solar blanket with attached regulator direct to the auxiliary battery, the Smartpass seems to manage things fine (eg top up the primary battery) from there. Very handy being able to turn the rear outlet (and therefore the fridge) off/on from the roof switches.
 
Isn't that the opposite of how they designed the system?

As far as I understand it, the idea is that the aux battery should support the main battery when the charge is low and therefore no consumers should be connected to the aux battery. 🤔
My point was that INEOS have set it up the opposite to most normal dual battery systems. But yes in the INEOS world you attach everything to the starter battery and the second battery is the backup jump starter l.
 
3 nights -


It was till the end of a long trip where we had no issues with the setup for weeks. But as opening doors makes the car prep for starting and I have been observing voltage drops via my battery monitors post trip, have the car sitting somewhere for days in a camping setup with the fam opening doors a lot, seems to mess with the Ineos power mgmt.

Bought a jumpstarter post the trip. ;)
3 days will drain most systems, but yes a good system should shut off your fridge before you are left with no starting capacity
 
3 days will drain most systems, but yes a good system should shut off your fridge before you are left with no starting capacity
And I am not talking a fridge in Australien heat here. Daytime temp was 20 degress celsius. 5 at night.
 
Isn't that the opposite of how they designed the system?

As far as I understand it, the idea is that the aux battery should support the main battery when the charge is low and therefore no consumers should be connected to the aux battery. 🤔
My feeling is: Ineos did it the wrong way! (This after reading all the comments here and with my electronic engineering background, because I have no personal experience with dual battery systems).
 
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