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Winch recovery kit

AnD3rew

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globalgregors

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I have collected my kit over time and it has multiple brands my one rule is buy decent brands.
I would consider a basic kit. Without winch:
- a long handled shovel (in 90% of situations it should be the first option and often the best, if you can dig out or track build and then drive out it puts the least strain on the vehicle and introduces the least additional risks.)
- Maxtrax x2 (as above plus these)
- A kinetic recovery rope
- min 2 soft shackles
- gloves

Then with a winch the above plus.
- a hook, winch ring or recovery ring for the winch loop
- a tree trunk protector

Then add as required
- a couple of rated bow shackes
- extra soft shackles
- a 5m bridle/equaliser strap
- a winch rope extension 20-30m
- X-lock for shortening extension rope
- a couple of recovery rings or snatch block
Excellent list. Is it worth considering the bridle/equaliser strap (or a utility rope) and a couple of extra soft shackles in the basic kit?

This gives a non-kinetic tow option and allows one to recover regular passenger vehicles/lighter SUVs (which may lack appropriate recovery points). I wonder whether this is maybe the most common recovery scenario….

If it’s a utility rope not a strap it may also be handy for roof/loadspace load retention.
 

AnD3rew

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Excellent list. Is it worth considering the bridle/equaliser strap (or a utility rope) and a couple of extra soft shackles in the basic kit?

This gives a non-kinetic tow option and allows one to recover regular passenger vehicles/lighter SUVs (which may lack appropriate recovery points). I wonder whether this is maybe the most common recovery scenario….

If it’s a utility rope not a strap it may also be handy for roof/loadspace load retention.
Good call, I agree this is a good option to have, apart from anything else else it’s good to be able to snatch from both recovery points if possible, and it possibly gives you an extra tow option, although you can tow with a kinetic rope as well. I guess I was going for the basic kit, but you can always add additional items to a basic kit.
 

DCPU

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It’s true, there is an irony, but you work with what you have and reduce as many hazards as you can within the envelope you have.
Yes, very definitely.

I saw the x locks advertised some time ago and was curious to see how they turn out in real world applications so looking forward to the group buy working out and reading about how people get on with them. 👍
 

Nocrays

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Excellent list. Is it worth considering the bridle/equaliser strap (or a utility rope) and a couple of extra soft shackles in the basic kit?

This gives a non-kinetic tow option and allows one to recover regular passenger vehicles/lighter SUVs (which may lack appropriate recovery points). I wonder whether this is maybe the most common recovery scenario….

If it’s a utility rope not a strap it may also be handy for roof/loadspace load retention.
Excellent List I agree. Only thing that I havent had the need for is Maxtraxs.

A good hydraulic Jack and decent base plate is my get out of jail free card.
 

DCPU

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Believe me, the Irony is not lost on me at all.
However, what other ways exist to shorten the very necessary winch extension rope.
Honesty, I need educating in this regard.
Yes, anyone with a winch extension rope needs some way of shortening it - myself included.

Others have said they do it easily but when asked about actual techniques have always gone quiet. It was discussed on this forum when the winch rope length was first made public.

I've always struggled with a long extension rope. You either walk further up the track to anchor at full length or put a pulley in to half the length. I'd even considered some form of drum to wrap the excess around and operate it as a friction brake, akin to a capstan winch; but that was a bit cumbersome.

This looks interesting.

The other alternative is to carry a selection of different length extension rope made up to say 5m, 10m, 25m, etc. Rope is light and not too bulky to find a space for somewhere. Cost/value would be the limiting factor for me.
 

AWo

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My suggestions for recovery kits:

No winch:
1 x Kinetic rope (good for stucked cars and absolutely necessary for recovery in sand (desert))
1 x Static strap (only for recovery of cars which are not really stuck, but maybe can't move or are trapped on slippery ground (wet grass, not too deep mud). Dynamic recovery with a static rope is a no go, it creates too much stress in the ladder frame and to the recovery points, high risk of ripping the strap and snatching. It can also be used to secure a car which tends to roll over or slip away).
A selection of steel and soft shackles.
A shovel

With winch:
1 x pulley (three if you also want to pull the car sideways)
1 x Tree rope (for mounting the winch rope or the pulley)
2 x static straps or ropes (to create a V shaped mounting point in front of the car to equal the load left and right inserted into the ladder frame. The longer the V the more equal the load will be. Can be used to secure a car like mentioned above. One very long and broad rope can be used to easily keep a car from rolling over while on sloped ground by winding it 3/4 around a tree. The tree acts like a brake and while the car moves forward you give rope. When it will turn over the strap will be tightend and pulled againts the tree thereby applying braking force. There is not much weight to hold, just a few kg when the car has not turned over too much already, so that is a safe thing).

P1020184.JPG

A selection of steel and soft shackles (at least 2, better 4 or 6)
1 x Kinetic rope (if sand driving is planned. A winch and a kinectic rope can do a great job when the car can't drive anymore in desert dunes. Depending on the actual situation you permanently have to change between the one and the other to get the car out.)
A shovel
Optional: brake shoes (you always have to shore up the load you will pull against the ground. That is the most fundamental thing. Brake shoes can support you here if the shape of the landscape doesn't.

Tips:
Whenever possible, get weight out of the car which is stuck. Try to create a ramp if you need to pull a car over a steep bank or step. That reduces the pulling load significantly. If you use a hook, always hook it up with the (don't know the term) secured mouth up. If the hook breakes it tends to snatch to the ground, not into the air). Pull as straight as possible. Always check the mount point at the car. When your gear is in good shape and not damaged, that is the point with the highest risk that something will break and things flying around. If you do not know the car, you may even want to reject from recovery. We pulled out a friends car once, with a good looking, heavy and trustworthy bumper. A few weeks later we removed the bumper and it was just hold by some remainings of steel and a lot of rust. We couldn't see that during the recovery and we were lucky that the bumper didn't come loose. Open the hood on the winch car for additional protection. Never use the recovery gear of others, you do not know the history of that and how it was (ab-)used. If the car is down to the ladder frame, a hand hoist could be very helpful. Take a tree rope around a tree about 2 meters high and attach it to the car which is stuck. Raise the car with that a few centimeters and pull it out then. Be aware the the hand hoist will come loose then. Not all trees can be used for that. It must be strong and thick enough and the bark must be rough. Whenever possible use a pulley, it saves energy, makes the recovery more precise and manageable and reduces load, stress and wear,

taubenreuther-winde-und-diverses-web-19.jpg

AWo
 
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Excellent List I agree. Only thing that I havent had the need for is Maxtraxs.

A good hydraulic Jack and decent base plate is my get out of jail free card.
I’ve used my sand mats many times in the past when traveling on my own and would have been in trouble without them. One of those bits of kit like the winch that you hardy ever need until you do.
 

AnD3rew

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2 x static straps or ropes (to create a V shaped mounting point in front of the car to equal the load left and right inserted into the ladder frame. The longer the V the more equal the load will be.
A single strap preferably at least 5 metres long, with a sheeth in the middle is better than two. The problem with 2 is that unless your pull is perfectly straight you end up putting all the strain on one anyway, if you use one with the sheeth it’s more likely to be able to self distribute.
 

AWo

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A single strap preferably at least 5 metres long, with a sheeth in the middle is better than two. The problem with 2 is that unless your pull is perfectly straight you end up putting all the strain on one anyway, if you use one with the sheeth it’s more likely to be able to self distribute.
Hmm, not in my practical experience. Because the strap tends to rip if you use one strap in a triangle. The strap cant't move in the mount points when load is applied and if you do not pull straight, So the strap can't balance that out, once load is applied. So even here you apply load to just one side and you'll rip the strap. I saw that often when only one strap was availble. As long as the strap can move freely, you're right.

If the single straps are strong enough, yes, you may pull only via one of them, but they do not get damaged. By having long straps, the risk of pulling only ovwer one side is mitigated. If possible never pull at an angle.

Here you can use using that triangled version you mention, it has worked, but we were pulling straight. If you pull at an angle you'll better of with two straps, even if one get's less load, but it will not be damaged. Even if you get the strap aligned in the beginning, when the car moves, the angle changes and the load will be distributen uneven and due to th eload the strap can't mitigate this.

sp_grubebergeset-549_34219792553_o.jpg

AWo
 

AnD3rew

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Hmm, not in my practical experience. Because the strap tends to rip if you use one strap in a triangle. The strap cant't move in the mount points when load is applied and if you do not pull straight, So the strap can't balance that out, once load is applied. So even here you apply load to just one side and you'll rip the strap. I saw that often when only one strap was availble. As long as the strap can move freely, you're right.

If the single straps are strong enough, yes, you may pull only via one of them, but they do not get damaged. By having long straps, the risk of pulling only ovwer one side is mitigated. If possible never pull at an angle.

Here you can see two 1,5 metre straps and it works like a charm:

View attachment 7818401

AWo
Thats why you need to get one designed for the job with a low friction sheeth over the rope in the middle that allows the shackle and sheeth to slide over the equaliser bridle.
 
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AWo

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I do not know "Low friction sheet". Maybe that's what I'm missing.

AWo
 

AnD3rew

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I do not know "Low friction sheet". Maybe that's what I'm missing.

See the black sheeth in the middle? You make sure that is under your shackle and that allows the sheeth and shackle to slide over the rope if necessary without damaging the rope.
IMG_4272.jpeg
 

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here’s how I would attach a bridal strap to a vehicle , both recovery points are taking some strain even at an angled pull agreed though that a protection sleeve would help protect the strap at the connection point of the tow rope
IMG_0304.jpeg
 

AWo

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here’s how I would attach a bridal strap to a vehicle , both recovery points are taking some strain even at an angled pull agreed though that a protection sleeve would help protect the strap at the connection point of the tow rope View attachment 7818455
You have to keep in mind, how the working load limit (or breaking load) changes, when you use it that way. If you look at the mark of a strap on how to use it, that case is not listed there. Thereby you don't know how it will behave. It is not put around a large radius like a tree, so it is bended heavily.

When you put it across a large radius (tree) it would be fine (due to Newtons third law), you can put more load on it. But that requires an even distribution of load across the single fibres (where the large radius is needed for).

20230629_124546.jpg

AWo
 
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Nocrays

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Yes, anyone with a winch extension rope needs some way of shortening it - myself included.

Others have said they do it easily but when asked about actual techniques have always gone quiet. It was discussed on this forum when the winch rope length was first made public.

I've always struggled with a long extension rope. You either walk further up the track to anchor at full length or put a pulley in to half the length. I'd even considered some form of drum to wrap the excess around and operate it as a friction brake, akin to a capstan winch; but that was a bit cumbersome.

This looks interesting.

The other alternative is to carry a selection of different length extension rope made up to say 5m, 10m, 25m, etc. Rope is light and not too bulky to find a space for somewhere. Cost/value would be the limiting factor for me.
It’s amazing how creative you can get when you need to be.
I carry extension straps and just take wraps on a tree to close things up.
 
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