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Winch recovery kit

DCPU

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Yes, it's labelled as the "break load" or MBL on the supplier's datasheet, so you need to apply a safety factor (divide) to arrive at your Safe Working Load (SWL) or more appropriately now designated as the Working Load Limit (WLL).

Safety factors range from 4 to 7 and I think (but don't quote me) can be 10 when used as PPE (Personal Protective Equipment).

So applying a factor of 4 for the shackle would give you a figure of 1,750kg.

The same calculation for the Red Winches item quoted is 4,200kg.

Do your winch recovery calcs for your Grenadier when it is stuck and see which one is most suitable for your particular pull; or get something that is sympathetically rated to your winch/winch line.
 

DCPU

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Nothing wrong.
Sorry but as this is a safety related item, I'm going to be adversarial ~ are you really sure when we're talking in the context of self recovering a Grenadier?

I'm not.
 

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Sorry but as this is a safety related item, I'm going to be adversarial ~ are you really sure when we're talking in the context of self recovering a Grenadier?

I'm not.
OK. I was trying to be non adversarial. Maybe I should be more direct. 12 years in my former life building power lines. I’ve seen what can go wrong when something in your rigging set up fails. I think those shackles would be fine for connecting a tow rope to your compact car when it breaks down on the side of the road.
In essence you have to be confident and competent in your winching and recovery set up. I know I’ve been posting about making my own soft shackles. But I wouldn’t use them in high load load winching situations, probably for towing only. I’ll be buying suitably rated shackles for the job. Wouldn’t want t appear to be encouraging people to use unsafe or untested kit. 👍🏼
if your not sure then buy properly rated kit and get yourself on a winch recovery course. 👍🏼
 

DCPU

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OK. I was trying to be non adversarial. Maybe I should be more direct.
Sorry, perhaps adversarial was a poor choice of word; but having worked in a number of heavy industries myself where anyone could stop a job for a safety concern, I perhaps could expressed that thought better.
I think those shackles would be fine for connecting a tow rope to your compact car when it breaks down on the side of the road.
I thinks that perhaps illustrates the point more concisely. 👍

I know I’ve been posting about making my own soft shackles.
I've enjoyed those postings and it's made me think about having a go myself.
 

Barney

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Hi everyone, yes, of course, the soft shackles should have a breaking load that is better more than twice as high as the WLL (working load limit) and I know that the breaking load of the two small soft shackles is rather low at 7000 kg. But they will probably be enough for work in my hunting ground. But I also will buy 2 more with a breaking load of at least 11000 kg, which also have a slightly larger sling diameter than the two inexpensive ones from "Grube". You can never have enough soft shackles. And by the way: the translation Google always talks about soft shackles like the bondages used in fifty shades of gray ;)
 

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7000kg is sold as a "fuse shackle" in Australia. The weak link that causes you to pause and reassess your set up when it breaks.
But for simple tows/ recoveries , OK.
 

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Can anyone with experience recommend a recovery track brand. Having sold all my recovery kit with my Defender I’m in the market for a complete new set of kit. Previously I had aluminium alloy recovery tracks/bridging ladders. These were good but heavy. I’m now going to go with lightweight plastic tracks such as Maxtracks but not necessarily that brand. At about £300 a set it’s a substantial investment as I want two sets ! what are your recommendations 🤔
The thing is you hardly ever need them but when you do they are invaluable.
 

globalgregors

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Can anyone with experience recommend a recovery track brand. Having sold all my recovery kit with my Defender I’m in the market for a complete new set of kit. Previously I had aluminium alloy recovery tracks/bridging ladders. These were good but heavy. I’m now going to go with lightweight plastic tracks such as Maxtracks but not necessarily that brand. At about £300 a set it’s a substantial investment as I want two sets ! what are your recommendations 🤔
The thing is you hardly ever need them but when you do they are invaluable.
Understandable, I do like the Maxtrax though and will be going for those… although with diff locks etc I’d be surprised if they see much use. UV performance is excellent and in Oz they can be found discounted if you can hold out for a 4x4 show.

Carried Maxtrax on the RTW but only used them for track-building/bridging, once in Mongolia (ruts) and once in Turkmenistan (crossing culverts). Doubled up they will support the DS.

ARB versions look good but I’ve literally never seen them in use. I think about the same price as the Maxtrax but I prefer the double-ended design of the latter.

This is a bit old (and very Australian) but may be worth a look:
 
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Mitchell300

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Can anyone with experience recommend a recovery track brand. Having sold all my recovery kit with my Defender I’m in the market for a complete new set of kit. Previously I had aluminium alloy recovery tracks/bridging ladders. These were good but heavy. I’m now going to go with lightweight plastic tracks such as Maxtracks but not necessarily that brand. At about £300 a set it’s a substantial investment as I want two sets ! what are your recommendations 🤔
The thing is you hardly ever need them but when you do they are invaluable.
I’ve purchased a couple of Rhino recovery trax through Amazon (Union Mart) for £89.99. Haven’t used them yet but they do appear to be substantial. I have wondered if they are genuine as there aren’t any Rhino markings on the tracks. But for the price and for what I need they should cope.
 

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DCPU

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I do like the look of the original Maxtrax boards. I note that they are out in a MkII version.

In UK, the trend was to go to waffle boards:
01_grp_grating_waffle_boards_sand_ladders_bridging_ladders.jpg
And at a price range of £46 to £80 perhaps an easier investment to make.

Watch any winch challenge event in the UK and they seem to be fairly ubiquitous.

 

ECrider

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I do like the look of the original Maxtrax boards. I note that they are out in a MkII version.

In UK, the trend was to go to waffle boards:
View attachment 7810909
And at a price range of £46 to £80 perhaps an easier investment to make.

Watch any winch challenge event in the UK and they seem to be fairly ubiquitous.


prefer that hit to the pocket. maxtrax look good, but lot of dough.
 

emax

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I do like the look of the original Maxtrax boards. I note that they are out in a MkII version.

In UK, the trend was to go to waffle boards:
View attachment 7810909
And at a price range of £46 to £80 perhaps an easier investment to make.

Watch any winch challenge event in the UK and they seem to be fairly ubiquitous.

Tested by Robert Pepper and found to be poor.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=evTaI5iANuQ
 
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jrchrds

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I'm going to look into the Maxtrax. We've made some amazing earth works with logs, rocks and dirt to get over and around obstacles, I can think of a few times this would have worked and been hours less in the preparation.
 
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Logsplitter

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I’ve just found Tred tracks made in Australia but about 30% cheaper than Maxtrax in the U.K.
need to try and find some reviews.
 

bigleonski

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I’ve just found Tred tracks made in Australia but about 30% cheaper than Maxtrax in the U.K.
need to try and find some reviews.
They’ll do at a pinch, but many get chucked in the bin after solid use, they break apart.

A lot of people who don’t expect to use them much buy them.
 

Logsplitter

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They’ll do at a pinch, but many get chucked in the bin after solid use, they break apart.

A lot of people who don’t expect to use them much buy them.
Thanks for that. So maxtrax will take a bit more of a beating ? and are worth the extra investment. ?
 

bigleonski

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Thanks for that. So maxtrax will take a bit more of a beating ? and are worth the extra investment. ?
Buy once buy right.

The only issue with maxtrax (and the others) is you need to make sure you don’t hit the accelerator full on and cause the wheels to spin, otherwise you’ll burn/melt the lugs off the trax. Just make sure they are solidly under the tyres then you just need to drive off them and away you go.
 
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