- Local time
- 12:30 PM
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2022
- Messages
- 417
- Reaction score
- 293
That’s a factory fit?295/70R17 BFG MT on factory steel rims
View attachment 7844323
That’s a factory fit?295/70R17 BFG MT on factory steel rims
View attachment 7844323
Toyo ATIIIWhat brand tires? I
Did you lift it? I just did the eibach 2.5 and regret it…its ride horrible now.That’s a factory fit?
So no lift right? I just did the Eibach 2.5/1.7 and regrets itMight as well add it to this thread as well...
Method 703 - 17x7.5 ET50 - Gloss Titanium
Falken Wildpeak A/T3W - LT255/80/17
View attachment 7856882
View attachment 7856883
No lift; given that the lift springs don't alter the bump stops or shocks, at full compression the tire location with or without the lift will be the sameSo no lift right?
I have the eibach lift and going to remove it ——I hope the 285/75r17 will still fit? I see some comments in thread about it not sure - I read on page 14 or 15 that John @ Agile ran 285/75r17 without the lift.No lift; given that the lift springs don't alter the bump stops or shocks, at full compression the tire location with or without the lift will be the same
I’m late on responding, but just to be clear the 70 and 75 in those measurements (I.e. 285/75/17) are percentages, not mm’s. The side wall height would be 285 x 75% = 213.75 mm. Also I don’t know of a 315/75/17 tire, the common size is a 315/70/17.only 70mm despite +30mm Lift? I was hoping the 75mm wouldn't be a problem. I want wider and bigger wheels than the original ones, I was thinking about 285/75/R17, but then I saw that some people here also have 315/75/R17 tires. Yes, I know that there is a difference between the Eibach US and EU versions of the Lift kit, but even the US version has a rear lift of only 30mm, right?
At every other level of compression (other than fully compressed) you will however have more space with the lift, so I don’t really follow your logic.No lift; given that the lift springs don't alter the bump stops or shocks, at full compression the tire location with or without the lift will be the same
The logic is that taller coils alone do not increase tire clearance. Yes there is more space when static but no one wants fender or tire damage because contact is being made under compression. Therefore if a larger tire does not rub with the stock suspension then you don't actually need taller coils to run that tire. If the tire does rub with stock suspension then you need more than just taller coils to make it work. You also need extended bump stops at a minimum and ideally longer shocks to match which will preserve or increase total suspension travel when used with the longer stops. This is basic suspension design for solid axle vehicles.At every other level of compression (other than fully compressed) you will however have more space with the lift, so I don’t really follow your logic.
That seems to imply that taller coils alone are of no benefit. I don’t agree with that. You still get improved approach and departure angles at every scenario other than at full compression.The logic is that taller coils alone do not increase tire clearance. Yes there is more space when static but no one wants fender or tire damage because contact is being made under compression. Therefore if a larger tire does not rub with the stock suspension then you don't actually need taller coils to run that tire. If the tire does rub with stock suspension then you need more than just taller coils to make it work. You also need extended bump stops at a minimum and ideally longer shocks to match which will preserve or increase total suspension travel when used with the longer stops. This is basic suspension design for solid axle vehicles.
Firstly, you're correct, the wheel will sit out further, but there's more to calculating the wider stance than just the offset, as the wheel widths are also different.1. Is their any downside to this much offset or unnatural stress that would put on the steering components, hubs, wheel bearings?
2. Do the on-road driving characteristics change at all with a wider track?
3. If I keep the OEM wheel as a spare (I like my little trash bin back there) are there any big issues in how the vehicle will track / drive if I get a puncture and put in the spare with a greater offset?
Most often? AestheticsOne follow up question - what is the main reason for a reduced offset? To fit larger tires so one can clear the suspension components?
Firstly, you're correct, the wheel will sit out further, but there's more to calculating the wider stance than just the offset, as the wheel widths are also different.
The Owl Talon being 17x8 ET30 will sit 31.3mm further "out" than the 17x7.5 ET55 (stock) wheel, and also give 18.7mm further clearance from the suspension (it's not just 25mm out due to the difference in width).
1) As you run wheels with lower offset (or add wheel spacers) you put more stress on the wheel bearings/hubs of the vehicle as the mass moves further away from the mounting surface. Is a 31mm move enough to cause long term issues? On the Grenadier, probably not; on other vehicles? It can be
2) Technically increasing track width will increase your scrub radius, which could increase steering effort and feedback slightly, as with above, not sure if this would actually be perceptible on the Grenadier
3) If on the front, you may notice very slightly different handling due to the difference in lateral wheel placement, but as long as the tire size is the same, no real worries.