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Petrol/Gas US Oil for B58 Engines

S52

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What Oil are you guys using (weight/ brand) for the diffs and T-case?

I'm at 1100 miles on my Gren. Plan on doing an engine oil service soon- reading this thread is making me want to tackle the diffs and transfer case as well!
 
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What Oil are you guys using (weight/ brand) for the diffs and T-case?

I'm at 1100 miles on my Gren. Plan on doing an engine oil service soon- reading this thread is making me want to tackle the diffs and transfer case as well!
The transfer case is the easiest to change, given the ease of access. Used valvoline synthetic 75w-90, with the flexible container, to more easily pour into the fill hole.

my transfer case fluid at the 800miles mark had a LOT of metal flakes. The oil was almost milky for the initial few seconds of flow.
 
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C-Mack

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I’d be careful and double check the levels of the transfer case a few times after a refill. With a cooler in the circuit it will be hard to know for certain the true level unless you measured exactly what you took out and put the same back in.

For example, would draining a cold transfer case produce less/more fluid than a hot one? What cooling cycle/mode was the transfer case in when drained? Does that even matter? Is the fill plug even a legitimate measurement point for the transfer case like on a differential or does the manual call for putting in a specified amount which has no relationship to the fill port?

I would have to think there is a specific drain/refill procedure the dealer performs which involves hooking their diagnostic system up to the vehicle and triggering a circulation pump, assuming it’s an electrical one. Would love to see Ineos service documents on this procedure anyone have a friend at a dealership who can take a screen capture of their software?
 

Norb-TX

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Well Mossey Houston is charging $860 for an oil change and both dif service. Outrageous.
 

LWA55DAL

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Liqui Moly TopTec 6600 if what I have used for the break-in oil change and the 2nd one at 7k miles

Here is the excerpt from Liqui Moly. I had trouble finding an oil that met BMW LL-17FE+ but the Liqui Moly was on Amazon.
  • The BMW Longlife-17 FE+ approval is intended specifically to reduce the risk of LSPI. LSPI stands for low speed pre-ignition and means that the mixture ignites spontaneously in the combustion chamber at low speeds before the ignition spark.
For the diffs I used Valvoline Full Synthetic 75-90. I have not done the T-case yet, but plan to use the same. Likely going to do that this weekend.
 

FlyingTexan

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Yes - that’s the same on the diffs. You want to do it cold as the oil will expand if it’s hot, but honestly - by the time you drain and fill - it won’t be that hot and your fine.

I personally overfill until it wants to keep coming out of the fill hole and plug it.
Diffs really don’t get hot. You’re not talking much difference on the oil level. I’m still not sold on multiple changes. My 3/4 ton work truck that I only use for towing has 227k miles and no diff issues. Changed twice at 100k mile intervals.
 

LWA55DAL

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Apparently you don’t tow anything - they get very hot towing and there is a reason there is an entire market dedicated to diff covers and temp sensors. I completely disagree with changing diffs at 100k if you don’t want issues but your truck - your call. I’ll do what I want to do and you can do the same, but I sure as hell wouldn’t tow on a routine basis and do diffs at 100k.

Happy trails!
 

FlyingTexan

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Apparently you don’t tow anything - they get very hot towing and there is a reason there is an entire market dedicated to diff covers and temp sensors. I completely disagree with changing diffs at 100k if you don’t want issues but your truck - your call. I’ll do what I want to do and you can do the same, but I sure as hell wouldn’t tow on a routine basis and do diffs at 100k.

Happy trails!
That truck has 226k miles and was used for a company towing goosenecks for delivery lol. Average temp is about 185-190 meanwhile the breakdown is over 300F. Diff fluid is like boat lower unit oil and I've seen many 200k+ trucks that never have it changed. That oil isn't running through an engine dealing with combustion and compression. Unless you drown it in water that synthetic isn't breaking down. GM doesn't even list a change interval on the axels and says 100k for heavy usage. So it gets it every 100k. Runs and drives like a champ. If you want to go argue with GM feel free. My Land Rover didn't do it that often either and 12k intervals is an absolute joke on these diffs.
 

FlyingTexan

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Well Mossey Houston is charging $860 for an oil change and both dif service. Outrageous.
If it makes you feel better I did mine at valvoline just to see what the fuss is about at 17k miles. They absolutely didn't need it. Total cost for all three was $240
 

Tom109

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Keep in mind that some of us change fluids out of habit. Coming from an old LR fleet (down to two thankfully) that see off road use, when there is wading involved I typically change fluids on axle, swivels and t-case every month.
 

Krabby

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often either and 12k intervals is an absolute joke on these diffs.
The first diff service is at 12k but the second is not until 60k. Still sooner than the 100k you reference, but thankfully it isn't every 12k. I'm assuming that first 12k is to remove any swarf from the building process and maybe the fluid has some breakin additives or something.
 
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Well Mossey Houston is charging $860 for an oil change and both dif service. Outrageous.
I just scheduled the 12k at RDS. I'm going to take the bath so as to not have to deal with excuses for rejected warranty claims.
 
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That truck has 226k miles and was used for a company towing goosenecks for delivery lol. Average temp is about 185-190 meanwhile the breakdown is over 300F. Diff fluid is like boat lower unit oil and I've seen many 200k+ trucks that never have it changed. That oil isn't running through an engine dealing with combustion and compression. Unless you drown it in water that synthetic isn't breaking down. GM doesn't even list a change interval on the axels and says 100k for heavy usage. So it gets it every 100k. Runs and drives like a champ. If you want to go argue with GM feel free. My Land Rover didn't do it that often either and 12k intervals is an absolute joke on these diffs.
If one were to install a clutch differential I'd consider a cooling cover, but, otherwise, these diffs should never produce enough heat to damage anything. If they are, there's something wrong with them. I picked up the AO Iron covers. Since he was at it and charged 300/ea, he should have cast some fins into them, but it isn't a deal breaker.
 
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What diff covers are those???
They are on the Agile off-road site. Expensive for what they are, as a banks set that has cooling fins and air direction for my f350 are about 2/3 as much, but, I want the diff bomb proofed as we’re never gonna see easily available parts for these units.
 
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