Petrol/Gas US Oil for B58 Engines

[anand]

Edit: Disregard my post, LL-12FE+ is a BMW supersession for LL04 in their BMW Branded TurboPower oils

 

[Tom109]

Anyone know the specific differences between LL01/LL04 and LL12FE+?

@Jayman1 I can understand going with a heavier oil, but why go with one that doesn't meet any of the (confusingly several) BMW specs that are mentioned for the B58?

See Post #18

Or were you asking for oil-specific spec’s?

 

[anand]

See Post #18

Or were you asking for oil-specific spec’s?

Disregard, I did further Googling and found that LL-12FE+ is the supersession of BMW branded LL-04; I hadn't seen it mentioned in the thread yet

 

[bikesandguitars]

I’ve been fortunate enough to push a few vehicles to the high 200K miles - and I’ve lost a couple before 100K too. I’m a firm believer in synthetic oils AND not changing brands or viscosity unless you’re drastically changing the demands you’re putting on the vehicle. I have no scientific data. Just superstitious.

 

[LWA55DAL]

This wasn’t mentioned yet so going to share with the group as I just completed my break-in oil change yesterday (2.2k mls) - Liqui Moly 6600 0w-20 is fully compliant and BMW approved for use in the B58. I don’t want to get into the oil weight debate (20/30/40/50), but this is the exact oil spec and I have used their oil in many cars for years with great results on new to very high mileage vehicles. We all have a GPF so you can’t really use some of the other specs in the long run.

Top Tec 6600 SAE 0W-20

Fully synthetic superior low friction motor oil. The low viscosity ensures excellent cold start behavior, improves engine efficiency and reduces fuel consumption. The innovative additive technology ensures excellent protection against wear, superb engine cleanness and greater oxidation...

www.liqui-moly.com

 

[FlyingTexan]

After looking at the specifications, the LL17FE+ is super low viscosity and lighter than I want to use. I would prefer a higher viscosity to improve engine life, such as the BMW LL04 or LL01 spec oils.

The Ineos B58 particulate filter calls for a low SAPS (sulfated ash, phosphorus, sulfur) oil. This is BMW LL04 spec, designed to prevent degradation of particulate filters.

If you want better wear protection you could go with BMW LL01 spec which contains more SAPS antiwear additives. I understand there is a chance this could accelerate degradation of the CAT or particulate filter, but I cannot comment on that directly.

You have that backwards the LL04 has better protection and had cat issues but that was when US fuels has higher sulfur rates vs the Euro matched sulfur rates they do now.

 

[FlyingTexan]

This wasn’t mentioned yet so going to share with the group as I just completed my break-in oil change yesterday (2.2k mls) - Liqui Moly 6600 0w-20 is fully compliant and BMW approved for use in the B58. I don’t want to get into the oil weight debate (20/30/40/50), but this is the exact oil spec and I have used their oil in many cars for years with great results on new to very high mileage vehicles. We all have a GPF so you can’t really use some of the other specs in the long run.

Top Tec 6600 SAE 0W-20

Fully synthetic superior low friction motor oil. The low viscosity ensures excellent cold start behavior, improves engine efficiency and reduces fuel consumption. The innovative additive technology ensures excellent protection against wear, superb engine cleanness and greater oxidation...

www.liqui-moly.com

LM is a mid-tier oil. Spends more money on advertising. That oil appears to have a rather low TBN and high sodium content based on this thread and confirms other reports I’ve read.

Liqui Moly Top Tec 6600 0W-20 (BMW LL-17 FE+) | 7,540 miles | 2019 BMW X3 | High Sodium??

This may be the first UOA of Liqui Moly Top Tec 6600 0W-20, which is a BMW Longlife-17 FE+ oil. The previous UOA was performed on the oil that was in the vehicle when I purchased it. It either has 1k or 6k miles on it, depending on when it was last changed. I posted that UOA here previously...

bobistheoilguy.com

 

[Tom109]

You have that backwards the LL04 has better protection and had cat issues but that was when US fuels has higher sulfur rates vs the Euro matched sulfur rates they do now.

We're kinda on the same page and splitting hairs between those two oils, but that info came from a M1 engineer.

 

[Tinerfeño]

Just one general comment on the viscosity: The bearing clearances and oil viscosity are linked. New engines have both tighter clearances and thinner oil. If too thick oil is used oil pressure is good but oil flow will be reduced to a level that may cause damage. So thicker oil may not be good for the engine.

When engine wears it can be compensated with thicker oil. I recommend oil pressure gauge at least when mileage increases.

 

[zvakanaka]

Time for my first oil change at 5535 miles.
Used standard BMW oil filter part # ending in 799 and as identified elsewhere in the forum. Purchased from BMW dealer about $25. Amsoil see pic and did a tire rotation, man are those wheels heavy.

 

[Krabby]

Time for my first oil change at 5535 miles.
Used standard BMW oil filter part # ending in 799 and as identified elsewhere in the forum. Purchased from BMW dealer about $25. Amsoil see pic and did a tire rotation, man are those wheels heavy.

Did you do the tire rotation yourself? How are your TPMS sensors reacting?

 

[ecohen2]

I reached out to my dealer the other day to ask what they are using for oil changes etc. They said Motul 0W-20 ECO Clean. I ordered two quarts from FCP and they showed up. The only reason I even inquired is at 3000 miles the oil check is asking for 500ML for off road use.. I am about embark on a 2500 mile trip so I figured I would have a couple of quarts for the trip.

In the future I am either going Redline which I use in my other car or Mobil 1..

 

[IG_LA]

I remember seeing a DIY oil change thread in detail with photos. Am I making this up in my head?

 

[LWA55DAL]

Video attached on the oil change and agreed that the factory oil capacity is a little low. I fill to “off-road” level and I think that is likely the best.

As far as the TPMS - there is a thread out there, but you will likely need to program the location of the tires to get the TPMS to read the correct location. I have had the same issue for years with my LC’s and even when I have asked for a reset from Discount Tire those clowns can’t seem to get it correct - so I purchased the Autel TPMS tool. The early versions required you to switch to EU mode to find the IG, but the most recent update has the IG in the list of vehicles and I can confirm that is reads all of the TPMS sensors. I have not rotated the tires yet, but others have been able to program the location easily. Simply put - once you rotate the tires - all you do is scan the TPMS sensors with the Autel tool and them plug into the ODBII and it will set the location.

View: https://youtu.be/LzTYyVVvp-s?si=7aHBI3JV3x9ouAIZ

 

[owl (Owl Outdoor)]

I just bought OEM BMW 0w20 LL-17FE oil and the BMW oil filter for the first change (at around 5,000) miles from FCP euro
I also bought Fuchs Titan 80/90 supergear oil for front and rear diff fluid change at the same time.
BMW oil filter is like $20 so the grenaider is looking like a $100 DIY oil and filter change using genuine BMW parts.
The grenadier is substantially less costly than the oil change on my sprinter. That costs me $220 for genuine Mercedes oil and filter. Sprinter also requires 13 liters of oil.

 

[LWA55DAL]

I just bought OEM BMW 0w20 LL-17FE oil and the BMW oil filter for the first change (at around 5,000) miles from FCP euro
I also bought Fuchs Titan 80/90 supergear oil for front and rear diff fluid change at the same time.
BMW oil filter is like $20 so the grenaider is looking like a $100 DIY oil and filter change using genuine BMW parts.
The grenadier is substantially less costly than the oil change on my sprinter. That costs me $220 for genuine Mercedes oil and filter. Sprinter also requires 13 liters of oil.

Did my BI Oil Change a 2.5k and I plan to do all oil changes at 5k mls going forward. For those that are not aware - the Diffs need to be changed at 10k Miles. I plan to do all of the diffs at 7.5k mls as well as the transfer case. The T-case has a SLIGHTLY different oil spec, but it is a lower spec than the diffs so I plan to use the same oil. I am actually really impressed that INEOS suggested a diff oil change as most OEM’s don’t, but it is VERY common on solid axles tractors for obvious reasons.

 

[zvakanaka]

Did you do the tire rotation yourself? How are your TPMS sensors reacting?

Yes I did and no issues with TPMS. Helps that I have a lift so was able to line up the wheels with the studs, mostly anyway because trying to lift those wheels is challenging to say the least.

 

[Tom109]

Video attached on the oil change and agreed that the factory oil capacity is a little low. I fill to “off-road” level and I think that is likely the best.

As far as the TPMS - there is a thread out there, but you will likely need to program the location of the tires to get the TPMS to read the correct location. I have had the same issue for years with my LC’s and even when I have asked for a reset from Discount Tire those clowns can’t seem to get it correct - so I purchased the Autel TPMS tool. The early versions required you to switch to EU mode to find the IG, but the most recent update has the IG in the list of vehicles and I can confirm that is reads all of the TPMS sensors. I have not rotated the tires yet, but others have been able to program the location easily. Simply put - once you rotate the tires - all you do is scan the TPMS sensors with the Autel tool and them plug into the ODBII and it will set the location.

View: https://youtu.be/LzTYyVVvp-s?si=7aHBI3JV3x9ouAIZ

Awesome! But $250 is a bit steep just to be able to rotate your own tires.

 

[LWA55DAL]

Awesome! But $250 is a bit steep just to be able to rotate your own tires.

The last tire rotation at Discount Tire included 3 trips to get them to fix the TPMS system to recognize the sensors and put them in the correct locations in the vehicle. So not having to ever do that again is worth it to me.

 

[Tom109]

The last tire rotation at Discount Tire included 3 trips to get them to fix the TPMS system to recognize the sensors and put them in the correct locations in the vehicle. So not having to ever do that again is worth it to me.

Agreed, I'm just complaining...