Petrol/Gas US Oil for B58 Engines

[HereinDaRockies]

Not yet. Just shy of 8k on the clock and going to do it at 10k with the diffs. Should be pretty simple in terms of process. Going to use Valvoline 75-90 Synthetic all the way around.

Fill the transfer case until it overflows the fill hole?

 

[LWA55DAL]

Yes - that’s the same on the diffs. You want to do it cold as the oil will expand if it’s hot, but honestly - by the time you drain and fill - it won’t be that hot and your fine.

I personally overfill until it wants to keep coming out of the fill hole and plug it.

 

[HereinDaRockies]

I wonder if there is a filter for the transfer case’s radiator system. To filter out metal shavings..

 

[HereinDaRockies]

drained the transfer case today.. very easy. The fill and drain plugs are positioned well for easy access.

Opened the fill plug, and no fluid poured out. The drained oil had a lot of metal dust particles. I believe this is considered normal for a new transfer case going though break in period

 

[LWA55DAL]

How many miles do you have? I am right at 8k so likely going to do it this weekend. Not shocking there were metal shavings. I have never seen a filter in a transfer case or axle. No pump to push it through the filter.

 

[HereinDaRockies]

How many miles do you have? I am right at 8k so likely going to do it this weekend. Not shocking there were metal shavings. I have never seen a filter in a transfer case or axle. No pump to push it through the filter.

Under 1k on the odo

 

[255/85]

I have never seen a filter in a transfer case or axle. No pump to push it through the filter.

There are small filter screens and dedicated fluid pumps on many chain-drive transfer cases (NVG, etc) but they use lightweight ATF instead of gear oil. I've not seen a pump or filter in a gear drive 'case. If we knew the internal layout of the Tremec used in the Grenadier it might be possible to affix a powerful magnet to the exterior that would trap shavings against the inside wall.

 

[Clark Kent]

There are small filter screens and dedicated fluid pumps on many chain-drive transfer cases (NVG, etc) but they use lightweight ATF instead of gear oil. I've not seen a pump or filter in a gear drive 'case. If we knew the internal layout of the Tremec used in the Grenadier it might be possible to affix a powerful magnet to the exterior that would trap shavings against the inside wall.

Something is creating a positive flow to circulate the hot oil from the transfer case sump to the cooler in the LH wing and back to the top of the transfer case. I'll take a stab there's a small paddle pump in there somewhere.

 

[LWA55DAL]

Something is creating a positive flow to circulate the hot oil from the transfer case sump to the cooler in the LH wing and back to the top of the transfer case. I'll take a stab there's a small paddle pump in there somewhere.

Forgot about that and very good point. It would not shock me to see an electric pump on the T case. Next time I am crawling around I’ll see if I can trace the lines. Should be simple to tell if it’s external or internal.

Now - there might be a temp valve in the system to also keep the temps at a constant level - lots of transmissions have that now but ATF fluid.

 

[255/85]

Forgot about that and very good point. It would not shock me to see an electric pump on the T case. Next time I am crawling around I’ll see if I can trace the lines. Should be simple to tell if it’s external or internal.

I don't remember seeing anything between the transfer and its dedicated radiator the last time I was under there but I wasn't looking for it either. The lines are pre-formed and look to be designed to handle some pressure which I thought was odd if it was somehow just passively circulating so an internal pump makes sense.

Now - there might be a temp valve in the system to also keep the temps at a constant level - lots of transmissions have that now but ATF fluid.

I was under the impression that the cooler was added fairly late in the development process to address overheating issues seen in real world testing. I probably read that somewhere here so it could have been conjecture back when everyone was theorizing.

 

[Michael_in_Baja]

I live in places that regularly exceed 100°F there's no way I'm going to use a 0w 20. I am using Liqui Moly 5w30.

 

[LWA55DAL]

Ok - just did the diffs at just over 8k Miles and the oil was filthy. I should have taken pictures, but was trying to just get it done late this evening. Generally speaking - it looked equivalent to what I would expect to see out of vehicle with 40+k Miles. Lots of small metallic metal shavings floating around. The drain and fill plugs both have small magnets - much smaller than what you see on a Toyota and the magnets were covered - both the fill and drain. I did run it pretty hard before doing the job to try and warm up the diffs and they were warm to the touch when I did the oil change. I could even see reflections in the light when I filled them up coming out of the fill hole (metal in the new oil flowing out). If you are considering it - its a VERY easy job, but I was a little shocked at how bad the oil was and I now completely understand the service internal of 12k Miles.

I am planning on doing in the T-case next weekend and will report back.

I will note that I have the lockers and I have cycled them well over 100+ times to try and get them “broken-in”. At 1st - they were hard to actuate, but now they work almost instantly. I have also driven well over 100 miles “locked” so that puts more stress on the diffs and is likely correlated to what I saw in the oil.

 

[HereinDaRockies]

The t case fill and drain plugs are not magnetic.

 

[LWA55DAL]

The t case fill and drain plugs are not magnetic.

Curious - how much oil did the T-case take? I hadn’t thought about the cooler and trying to think through the total capacity of the T-case and cooler. The cooler is certainly higher than the T-case so unless there is a back-flow valve - filling the T-case to the fill line won’t re-fill the cooler and the T-case will be low.

 

[Michael_in_Baja]

Ok - just did the diffs at just over 8k Miles and the oil was filthy. I should have taken pictures, but was trying to just get it done late this evening. Generally speaking - it looked equivalent to what I would expect to see out of vehicle with 40+k Miles. Lots of small metallic metal shavings floating around. The drain and fill plugs both have small magnets - much smaller than what you see on a Toyota and the magnets were covered - both the fill and drain. I did run it pretty hard before doing the job to try and warm up the diffs and they were warm to the touch when I did the oil change. I could even see reflections in the light when I filled them up coming out of the fill hole (metal in the new oil flowing out). If you are considering it - its a VERY easy job, but I was a little shocked at how bad the oil was and I now completely understand the service internal of 12k Miles.

I am planning on doing in the T-case next weekend and will report back.

I will note that I have the lockers and I have cycled them well over 100+ times to try and get them “broken-in”. At 1st - they were hard to actuate, but now they work almost instantly. I have also driven well over 100 miles “locked” so that puts more stress on the diffs and is likely correlated to what I saw in the oil.

Thank you for this. I thought the differential service at 12,000 miles might have been excessive but apparently not. I will do mine with my second oil change at 5,000 miles.

 

[LWA55DAL]

Worth noting - I pulled the fill plugs 1st and neither of them had oil seeping out. I put a finger in the hole and I could not touch oil with either them further supporting the idea that they are not properly filled at the factory as I have read on a couple of the posts. I would say they were every bit of 1-2CM low - maybe more as I could not feel anything and this was on hot diffs so the oil should be at max level at that point.

Regardless of mileaage - worth checking the fill level. No leaks of any kind at the diffs, but not where they should be on a factory fill.

 

[LWA55DAL]

Thank you for this. I thought the differential service at 12,000 miles might have been excessive but apparently not. I will do mine with my second oil change at 5,000 miles.

Most diffs do not call for an oil change until 30+k miles, but these are tractor axles. Look at any tractor manual and they all call for diff changes after break-in around 200 hours. The axles, diffs and lockers are more like a tractor than a typical car these days so it makes sense. Per the manual the next diff change is around 35k or so, but I am likely going to do it after the next 10k and at least see what it looks like.

 

[NQ94]

Most diffs do not call for an oil change until 30+k miles, but these are tractor axles. Look at any tractor manual and they all call for diff changes after break-in around 200 hours. The axles, diffs and lockers are more like a tractor than a typical car these days so it makes sense. Per the manual the next diff change is around 35k or so, but I am likely going to do it after the next 10k and at least see what it looks like.

These axles made by a company that outside of Europe are known for making axles for tractors and machinery. They also make axles for light vehicles and trucks. If these were tractor axles there would be plenty of complaints about high speed noise by now. The likely cause of high metal in the oil is the manufacturing process for the forged gears in the differential not the crown wheel and pinion.

 

[LWA55DAL]

These axles made by a company that outside of Europe are known for making axles for tractors and machinery. They also make axles for light vehicles and trucks. If these were tractor axles there would be plenty of complaints about high speed noise by now. The likely cause of high metal in the oil is the manufacturing process for the forged gears in the differential not the crown wheel and pinion.

Understood and you have likely looked at this in more detail than me, but there is little difference between a solid front axle in a tractor and the IG axle. No other auto manufacturer calls for diff changes before 39k miles on a comparable vehicle (Toyota Land Cruiser). I have done 1st diff oil changes on many vehicles, including tractors, and this was the most filthy oil I have seen. That’s not to say they are bad and quite the opposite - well machined parts need to break-in and when they do - they can last a lifetime. I honestly think that is the situation here. High tolerance and break-in so you need to change the oil sooner.

 

[Norb-TX]

What’s everyone paying for the diff service at the dealer?