(The battery and monitor thread )Car dead in the middle of the woods

[das mo]

Hi all.

Car is dead.

Battery was at 50% 2 hours back.
We now packed all together and car does not start.

Is there an Ineos support hotline I can call on a Sunday?

Thanks

 

[MarkH]

Mine are agm

I noted from photos on here they were marked as EFB+ batteries - enhanced flooded batteries. They have similar characteristics to AGM but are a wet cell lead acid battery not an absorbent glass mat construction.
EFB is marked by arrow, very faint, need to zoom in.

 

[Miki]

The CTEK is a smart DC/DC charger that is (in theory) designed to overcome the issues created by these new 'smart alternators'.

I have just read more about this in another thread ...
It would appear that the CTEK is NOT acting as a DC/DC charger as this function is not connected ....

https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/ctek-smartpass120-vs-smartpass120s.12411949/post-1333181535

 

[MarkH]

The Smartpass 120s has a start assist feature that is supposed to automatically connect the 2 batteries for 10 secs in the event the starter battery has insufficient charge to turn the engine over.

 

[CountyV8]

I allays carry a LIPO jump pack small light weight fits under passenger seat in grenadier

 

[Pat-Ard]

I think this would be also the best plasce to connect a Garmin Power Switch. In addition to the roof switches…

 

[DenisM]

I have just read more about this in another thread ...
It would appear that the CTEK is NOT acting as a DC/DC charger as this function is not connected ....

https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/ctek-smartpass120-vs-smartpass120s.12411949/post-1333181535

That is correct...hence the need ultimately for a DC-DC charger in the mix.
Here's a reason why for some owners, the charge is appearing to be capped at 80%...it's to allow for additional charging under "regenerative braking".....i.e. to fill the nominal 20% reserve and not overcharge the battery...
This is well worth reading

Aux Battery Charging With Smart Alternators | 12 Volt Planet

A guide to the benefits of using battery to battery chargers to overcome split charging problems caused by smart alternators on modern Euro 5 & 6 vehicles.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

To add the Ctek DC-DC charger in with the Ctek smartpass 120s seems like a good idea!

 

[Hannes01]

On longer trips always on board:

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B012DC26K4/?tag=globalgrena0b-20

 

[Burki]

Did you try: „Wende Dich innerhalb Europas* an die Nummer 0330 053 0885, und wir helfen Dir, wieder auf die Straße oder ins Gelände zu kommen.“

Service Fur Deinen Grenadier

Wir bauen ein Service- und Reparaturnetzwerk für Deinen Grenadier auf – in der ganzen Welt. Mehr Entdecken

ineosgrenadier.com

Diese Nummer funktioniert definitiv nicht (wie so vieles bei IA nicht funktioniert).

 

[Fab]

Yes.
The Black (neg) are connected together already (common earth)
Connect, start the car, remove the lead.

View attachment 7821017

It would be highly unlikely that both batteries were 'dead' - it's possible, but I would estimate that 99% of the time this would get your car going again.

It's better, and safer, to disconnect the starter battery first.
The ”dead” battery will start sucking power from the service battery as soon as you connect them.
The current may be so high that you will not be able to start anyway, or the connecting cable may catch fire.
In general it's never a good idea to connect batteries that are not charged equally.

My 2 cents.
Have a nice day, Fabio

 

[emax]

Diese Nummer funktioniert definitiv nicht (wie so vieles bei IA nicht funktioniert).

"Innerhalb Europas": Welche Ländervorwahl ist da zu verwenden?

Sorry, English: "Within Europe": which country prefix to dial?

 

[das mo]

Car running ok.
Engine warning light on though and cruise control stopped working.
Ideas?

 

[MarkH]

I have just read more about this in another thread ...
It would appear that the CTEK is NOT acting as a DC/DC charger as this function is not connected ....

The Ctek Smartpass 120s is a DC to DC charger but only a 'dumb' one. It cannot control or convert the voltage coming from the alternator. It is simply acting as a bridge to transfer charge to the auxiliary battery. You need to add a Ctek 250SE unit to the system to correctly charge the aux battery to 100% (float). The 250SE is just a smart battery charger powered by DC current instead of AC. Hence the term DC2DC charger. It can utilise alternator or solar input, but not both at the same time.

The Smartpass on its own relies on the voltage & current supplied by the alternator so does a poor job of charging the aux battery. There is no 3 or 5 stage charging regime - bulk / absorbtion / float. If say the IG's smart alternator reduces the voltage to 13.6V, as they can do, the Smartpass can then only charge the aux battery to around 70-75%, at best. You need 14.4-14.8V to overcome the aux battery's higher internal resistance after that to reach full charge. This is why the 250SE is needed, it boosts the voltage from the alternator.

 

[Logsplitter]

Mine are agm

Mine are advanced flooded batteries as all are I would guess EFB Plus

 

[Miki]

That is correct...hence the need ultimately for a DC-DC charger in the mix.
Here's a reason why for some owners, the charge is appearing to be capped at 80%...it's to allow for additional charging under "regenerative braking".....i.e. to fill the nominal 20% reserve and not overcharge the battery...
This is well worth reading

Aux Battery Charging With Smart Alternators | 12 Volt Planet

A guide to the benefits of using battery to battery chargers to overcome split charging problems caused by smart alternators on modern Euro 5 & 6 vehicles.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

To add the Ctek DC-DC charger in with the Ctek smartpass 120s seems like a good idea!

Hi Denis
Did you see my post #38 ?

S.O.S. - Car dead in the middle of the woods

Hi all. Car is dead. Battery was at 50% 2 hours back. We now packed all together and car does not start. Is there ab Ineos support hotline I can call on a Sunday? Thanks

www.theineosforum.com

 

[emax]

Car running ok.
Engine warning light on though and cruise control stopped working.
Ideas?

No. But if the engine warning light appears in red, I'd stop driving - otherwise you might void you warranty as such events are very likely logged permanently.

No good news, I know. But worth mentioning.

 

[das mo]

No. But if the engine warning light appears in red, I'd stop driving - otherwise you might void you warranty as such events are very likely logged permanently.

No good news, I know. But worth mentioning.

Yellow

 

[James]

The Ctek Smartpass 120s is a DC to DC charger but only a 'dumb' one. It cannot control or convert the voltage coming from the alternator. It is simply acting as a bridge to transfer charge to the auxiliary battery. You need to add a Ctek 250SE unit to the system to .

I’m just learning here, used to simpler electrical, but reading about the 120s/250se devices and beginning to be less confused…. Can we simply replace the 120s with the 250se?
it’s also looking like it might be good to re-wire all aux outlets and roof/footwell outlets to run off aux battery or ctek load terminal…
thoughts?

 

[Lollo050968]

Yellow

For me looks like errors, which come up, after low voltage. You wrote now 100% charged, see what happens after restart, and engine off.

 

[Miki]

It's better, and safer, to disconnect the starter battery first.
The ”dead” battery will start sucking power from the service battery as soon as you connect them.
The current may be so high that you will not be able to start anyway, or the connecting cable may catch fire.
In general it's never a good idea to connect batteries that are not charged equally.

My 2 cents.
Have a nice day, Fabio

@Fab that was the aim, to connect the two batteries together that are not charged equally, so that the car that was in an innoperable/emergency situation, could be started.
When you ' jump start' a car or attach a NOCO starter pack (other makes are available) that's exactly what you are doing , connecting two batteries that are not charged equally.

I said...
You should use a Heavy Duty cable with clips at each end.
Connect.
Start the car.
Disconnect

If you had disconnected the starter battery - how would this help you ?
The current would be relatively high, probably, and if you used a thin wire (like that used to connect a radio or a light bulb) the wire would have got hot and probably let some smoke out (Replacement Wiring Harness smoke is available).

You are (IMO) over-valuing your comments.

 

[das mo]

For me looks like errors, which come up, after low voltage. You wrote now 100% charged, see what happens after restart, and engine off.

Yes.

All good again. Thanks all.

What a stressful start into the day.

Sharing 2 pics from me up Galtispuoda mountain via an AMG test track close to Arjeplog / the arctic circle.

Detailed travel report and lessons learned coming up…

I feel it will take some time for me to understand that power mgmt setup.

Timo