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Steering wheel center?

Skydance

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Only if you are drunk.
There is a large flat section on the bottom ........with writing on it.
A bright red button on the right
Two thumb rests in the top half of the wheel
Not to mention you are either reversing straight or turning

View attachment 7861417
I see nothing in the dark especially when reversing 😂. Might need to goto Spec Savers
 

DaveB

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I see nothing in the dark especially when reversing 😂. Might need to goto Spec Savers
I reverse down my driveway every day.
It is about 30 metres to where I park
I need to avoid obstacles on both sides and then make an S type turn to get into my parking space.
I only ever use the side mirrors as I am used to driving vehicles with no reversing camera or rear view mirror.
This also keeps both hands on the wheel in the normal position and my head facing the windscreen.
Hopefully by Sunday afternoon I will be reversing into my new shed.
 

DoubleDoom

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When we test-drove one earlier in the year, the steering wheel was offset. When we mentioned it to the dealer, he said it was common on earlier builds, and there was a correction for it, but they hadn't got round to applying it to the test vehicle yet. He also said they were not seeing the issue on more recent builds.
 

Skydance

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When we test-drove one earlier in the year, the steering wheel was offset. When we mentioned it to the dealer, he said it was common on earlier builds, and there was a correction for it, but they hadn't got round to applying it to the test vehicle yet. He also said they were not seeing the issue on more recent builds.
Yep my 24 model courtesy car is bang straight. But I had mine done twice but when it comes back, it’s still a bit off 🤷‍♂️. Anyway got used to it now. I think it’s down the experience of the technician.
 

ninster

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I also have the steering wheel slightly off centre.
Coming from a Land I was also thinking of working on the steering bar but I first called my assistance centre.
on the grenadier the steering can be adjusted both mechanically from the steering bar and with the software!
in fact they have connected the diagnostics to the car and one of the various functions is the centering of the steering wheel :oops:
M
 

Skydance

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Yep my 24 model courtesy car is bang straight. But I had mine done twice but when it comes back, it’s still a bit off 🤷‍♂️. Anyway got used to it now. I think it’s down the experience of the technician.
Had mine adjusted for the 3rd time with help from Ineos HQ. Drives a lot better, lighter steering. Gone is the dead centre where you can wiggle the steering and nothing happens. Steers more accurately meaning I can approach a corner at speed and throw it around the corner with confidence. Still ever so slightly off set, I can live that and put the steering to rest now. I’m very happy.
 

JSDKMS!

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Had mine adjusted for the 3rd time with help from Ineos HQ. Drives a lot better, lighter steering. Gone is the dead centre where you can wiggle the steering and nothing happens. Steers more accurately meaning I can approach a corner at speed and throw it around the corner with confidence. Still ever so slightly off set, I can live that and put the steering to rest now. I’m very happy.
Do you know what they did to fix the issue?
 

Skydance

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Do you know what they did to fix the issue?
Not 100 percent sure. Was told a full geo reset. I know they took the extra time because they inflated all tyres to 39 psi exact all corners before reset. I know it isn’t a sports car but with the anti roll bars, it can take corners pretty good now.
 

IslandFalconer

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This is a simple fix, anyone with a few wrenches can perform in their own laneway. It’s a simple drag link adjustment, it’s no different than any live axle vehicle. The key here is making sure the vehicle is actually tracking straight and not chewing tires. If the alignment is sound than all you need to do is drive on a level surface, stop, place the vehicle in park, shut off the engine, get under the front end and adjust the drag link a 1/8-1/4 turn and re check either you’re worse, so went the wrong way, so back under, adjust the other direction back to where you started and than 1/8-1/4 turn the other way. Do it in small increments if you’re unsure. You don’t have to lock both nuts while making the adjustment, DO NOT GO DRIVE ON THE ROADS WHILE THE NUTS ARE NOT LOCKED. Once you’ve centered the wheel, lock everything back up and you’re golden. Easy peasy!
 
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Skydance

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This is a simple fix, anyone with a few wrenches can perform in their own laneway. It’s a simple drag link adjustment, it’s no different than any live axle vehicle. The key here is making sure the vehicle is actually tracking straight and not chewing tires. If the alignment is sound than all you need to do is drive on a level surface, stop, place the vehicle in park, shut off the engine, get under the front end and adjust the drag link a 1/8-1/4 turn and re check either you’re worse, so went the wrong way, so back under, adjust the other direction back to where you started and than 1/8-1/4 turn the other way. Do it in small increments if you’re unsure. You don’t have to lock both nuts while making the adjustment, DO NOT GO DRIVE ON THE ROADS WHILE THE NUTS ARE NOT LOCKED. Once you’ve centered the wheel, lock everything back up and you’re golden. Easy peasy!
I might give this a try one day. Does anyone have any idea of the exact size spanner’s required for this? Thanks
 

landmannnn

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This is a simple fix, anyone with a few wrenches can perform in their own laneway. It’s a simple drag link adjustment, it’s no different than any live axle vehicle. The key here is making sure the vehicle is actually tracking straight and not chewing tires. If the alignment is sound than all you need to do is drive on a level surface, stop, place the vehicle in park, shut off the engine, get under the front end and adjust the drag link a 1/8-1/4 turn and re check either you’re worse, so went the wrong way, so back under, adjust the other direction back to where you started and than 1/8-1/4 turn the other way. Do it in small increments if you’re unsure. You don’t have to lock both nuts while making the adjustment, DO NOT GO DRIVE ON THE ROADS WHILE THE NUTS ARE NOT LOCKED. Once you’ve centered the wheel, lock everything back up and you’re golden. Easy peasy!
Absolutely correct. Just one consideration is that the steering angle sensor may need resetting.
 

DaveB

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Yep. Maybe its 3,4,5 but its noticeable.
Slightly above the little mark on the steering wheel is the windscreen.
Focus on looking at, and out through it, rather than looking at the little line.
Occasionally look to the right and left out the side windows.
You will find the little problem with the line on the steering wheel will soon be forgotten.
 

LWA55DAL

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Absolutely correct. Just one consideration is that the steering angle sensor may need resetting.
I have had the alignment done twice to correct the alignment and get the steering wheel correctly centered. As I understand it - the angle sensor is in the steering column so if it is straight then it will show 0 deg. So - if the steering wheel is not centered then it will put out the correct reading because it is not centered.
 

LeftCoastOverland

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I was pawing around under my truck today during an oil change and found my big honkin nut to be loose on my drag link sleeve.
The truck had an alignment performed by Bob Jane 2 months ago when I had my KM3’s installed, and has recently progressively been steering heavy to the right. Not sure how long it’s been loose.
The loose nut was the lower of the 2 in the picture here (closest to hand’s pinky), and it was about 1/2 way on the threads. I’ve hand tightened it to one side, but will be taking it in for an alignment. This time I’ll try a Truck and Bus alignment shop instead.
IMG_2439.jpeg
 

DaBull

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I was pawing around under my truck today during an oil change and found my big honkin nut to be loose on my drag link sleeve.
The truck had an alignment performed by Bob Jane 2 months ago when I had my KM3’s installed, and has recently progressively been steering heavy to the right. Not sure how long it’s been loose.
The loose nut was the lower of the 2 in the picture here (closest to hand’s pinky), and it was about 1/2 way on the threads. I’ve hand tightened it to one side, but will be taking it in for an alignment. This time I’ll try a Truck and Bus alignment shop instead.
View attachment 7864244
Hi LeftCoastOverland, Is this drag link the one you adjust to get you steering wheel better centered?
My steering wheel is 1-2 degrees to the right of top dead center and although it is not a big deal, I would llke to get it centered up.
DaBull
 

LeftCoastOverland

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Haven’t played with it yet, but since it’s losened up on its own I planned to see if I could get it straightened out today.
It’s a 40mm nut, so I’m not sure I’ll be successful, but I’ll try. I’ll let you know @DaBull what my results are.
I agree the 2 degrees right is not a deal breaker but it sure is annoying… feels like I’m constantly fighting the drive. Lord knows what it’s doing to my tire wear!
 

LeftCoastOverland

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Hi LeftCoastOverland, Is this drag link the one you adjust to get you steering wheel better centered?
My steering wheel is 1-2 degrees to the right of top dead center and although it is not a big deal, I would llke to get it centered up.
DaBull
Ok following up from my earlier post I was able to get under the truck again today before the rain.

So, I’m happy to say I was able to straighten out the steering wheel rather quickly and easily using a set of Knipex Channel locks. The retaining nuts varry in size, and 40mm is the largest I believe. On a scale of one to busted knuckle I give this a 0.5 👍
IMG_2449.jpeg

As I worked underneath, checking my retaining nuts by hand I found 3 of 5 to be loose. Everything on (RHD) driver’s side was loose. All passenger side nuts were tight.

IMG_2444.jpeg

I found nut “1” in the incorrect position yesterday. It was 1/2 way on the threads from the drag link adjust collar “2” and the end. Nut “3” was in place but loose enough to move with my fingers.

IMG_2445.jpeg
This one was also finger loose on RH end of drag link bar.

IMG_2446.jpeg
(These two Pax Side were tight. Just gave them a quick torque with the Knipex, and hit it with a paint pen for torque witness)

Method:
I backed both nuts “1” & “3” mid way to allow for movement in the “2” adjustment.
While checking often on the steering wheel I rotated the collar toward the front of the car.
To emphasise: I was laying on my right side/shoulder and grabbing the collar with my right hand (bare hand moved it easily no tool)
Moving the collar toward the front of the car brought the 12:00 position indicator on the steering wheel to the left. Rotating the collar toward the rear of the truck brought the steering wheel to the right. And it’s not a lot of turns. So think in 1/2 turn increments to bring the wheel a degree left or right.

It took me 2 tries until I was satisfied with the positioning, I made adjustments, torqued the nuts down with my knipex, and took the Gren for a lap around the paddock up to 100Km. First attempt was with the wheel centered, I still felt a bit of right input on the wheel was needed to keep the truck straight. So I opted to give the wheel a slight degree of left bias now, and took the truck for another lap.
IMG_2447.jpeg

Satisfied, I then backed the nuts “1 & 3” off carefully to avoid disturbing the “2” adjustment. To keep “2” in line I used my right hand to steady it, while using the tool to break torque on “1” and “3”.

The reason for this was to apply some loctite. In an effort to keep this from plaguing me often. We’ll see how it goes…
I used Blue Loctite 243 medium hold, liberally on the “1 &3” retaining nuts, and also on the one nut I found Loose on the driver side by the wheel.

I then cranked everything back down. Didn’t have a torque wrench and crow’s foot to measure it, but gave it the beans to keep it in place best I could. The thread lock should take care of the rest.

Afterwards I hit the Nuts and draglink bar with a sharpie paint pen to create a new torque witness for quick visual reference when I’m pre trip inspecting.
IMG_2448.jpeg

I’ll keep an eye on it for the next few drives. But I’m satisfied I was able to rectify the right side bias in the wheel independent of an alignment shop. Hopefully if everything stays true I’ll continue to drive another 5-7,000Km before performing a tire rotation and alignment. (12,000Km service at dealership.)

Also: this YouTube video on a Ram 2500 was similar enough to glean the process from If my write up was too confusing.
View: https://youtu.be/KIv7HgEnb_E?si=6SrX4OsISj_-zTTG
 
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