Ok following up from my earlier post I was able to get under the truck again today before the rain.
So, I’m happy to say I was able to straighten out the steering wheel rather quickly and easily using a set of Knipex Channel locks. The retaining nuts varry in size, and 40mm is the largest I believe. On a scale of one to busted knuckle I give this a 0.5
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As I worked underneath, checking my retaining nuts by hand I found 3 of 5 to be lose. Everything on (RHD) driver’s side was lose. All passenger side nuts were tight.
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I found nut “1” in the incorrect position yesterday. It was 1/2 way on the threads from the drag link adjust collar “2” and the end. Nut “3” was in place but lose enough to move with my fingers.
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This one was also finger loose on RH end of drag link bar.
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(These two Pax Side were tight. Just gave them a quick torque with the Knipex, and hit it with a paint pen for torque witness)
Method:
I backed both nuts “1” & “3” mid way to allow for movement in the “2” adjustment.
While checking often on the steering wheel I rotated the collar toward the front of the car.
To emphasise: I was laying on my right side/shoulder and grabbing the collar with my right hand (bare hand moved it easily no tool)
Moving the collar toward the front of the car brought the 12:00 position indicator on the steering wheel to the left. Rotating the collar toward the rear of the truck brought the steering wheel to the right. And it’s not a lot of turns. So think in 1/2 turn increments to bring the wheel a degree left or right.
It took me 2 tries until I was satisfied with the positioning, I made adjustments, torqued the nuts down with my knipex, and took the Gren for a lap around the paddock up to 100Km. First attempt was with the wheel centered, I still felt a bit of right input on the wheel was needed to keep the truck straight. So I opted to give the wheel a slight degree of left bias now, and took the truck for another lap.
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Satisfied, I then backed the nuts “1 & 3” off carefully to avoid disturbing the “2” adjustment. To keep “2” in line I used my right hand to steady it, while using the tool to break torque on “1” and “3”.
The reason for this was to apply some loctite. In an effort to keep this from plaguing me often. We’ll see how it goes…
I used Blue Loctite 243 medium hold, liberally on the “1 &3” retaining nuts, and also on the one nut I found Loose on the driver side by the wheel.
I then cranked everything back down. Didn’t have a torque wrench and crow’s foot to measure it, but gave it the beans to keep it in place best I could. The thread lock should take care of the rest.
Afterwards I hit the Nut’s and draglink bar with a sharpie paint pen to create a new torque witness for quick visual reference when I’m pre trip inspecting.
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I’ll keep an eye on it for the next few drives. But I’m satisfied I was able to rectify the right side bias in the wheel independent of an alignment shop. Hopefully if everything stays true I’ll continue to drive another 5-7,000Km before performing a tire rotation and alignment. (12,000Km service at dealership.)
Also: this YouTube video on a Ram 2500 was similar enough to glean the process from If my write up was too confusing.
View: https://youtu.be/KIv7HgEnb_E?si=6SrX4OsISj_-zTTG