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Side steps versus Rock sliders

DCPU

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I don't think the rock sliders are ideal for jacking with a hilift. They seem too flush with the bodywork. There's always a degree of wobble in the foot of a hilift where the baseplate meets the lifting beam and once a wheel is lifted it's easy for it to move a little off vertical and lean in. It looks too easy to damage a door, the margins just don't seem to be there.
So I thought I'd check this out for myself today.

I started with just using the first concave section of the jack lip, to give maximum standoff. Note: I'd never actually use just this portion of the toe in a real jacking situation.
WP_20230512_041.jpg


It's not a perfect match for the section of the rock slider tube, but it does work:
WP_20230512_043.jpg


But I was pleasantly surprised at the standoff this gave:
WP_20230512_047.jpg


There's certainly plenty of room to get more of the toe under the slider:
WP_20230512_044.jpg


I then moved to the second "step" in the toe and measured the standoff at the utility belt:
WP_20230512_061.jpg


Which then made me think that a packing piece of wood/plastic/rubber attached to the utility belt would be an ideal way to ensure any jack mishap would not cause a costly scratch/dent/hole in the door. The section could be kept separately and just attached in seconds at whatever corner needed lifting:
WP_20230512_053.jpg



As an aside, I can confirm that the anti tilt element of the alarm works well, setting the alarm off before all the travel in the suspension had been taken up.
 
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Cheshire cat

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So I thought I'd check this out for myself today.

I started with just using the first concave section of the jack lip, to give maximum standoff. Note: I'd never actually use just this portion of the toe in a real jacking situation.
View attachment 7811346

It's not a perfect match for the section of the rock slider tube, but it does work:
View attachment 7811349

But I was pleasantly surprised at the standoff this gave:
View attachment 7811350
Looks scary all the same
 

Tazzieman

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I wonder if it's possible to design/weld in boxed jack receivers like on my 60s Benzes and Fiat?
Hi lift jacks always provide the opportunity for disfigurement of vehicle or operator.
 

grenadierboy

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So I thought I'd check this out for myself today.

I started with just using the first concave section of the jack lip, to give maximum standoff. Note: I'd never actually use just this portion of the toe in a real jacking situation.
View attachment 7811346

It's not a perfect match for the section of the rock slider tube, but it does work:
View attachment 7811349

But I was pleasantly surprised at the standoff this gave:
View attachment 7811350

There's certainly plenty of room to get more of the toe under the slider:
View attachment 7811354

I then moved to the second "step" in the toe and measured the standoff at the utility belt:
View attachment 7811355

Which then made me think that a packing piece of wood/plastic/rubber attached to the utility belt would be an ideal way to ensure any jack mishap would not cause a costly scratch/dent/hole in the door. The section could be kept separately and just attached in seconds at whatever corner needed lifting:
View attachment 7811356


As an aside, I can confirm that the anti tilt element of the alarm works well, setting the alarm off before all the travel in the suspension had been taken up.
Did you try the second & third concave section.?

I agree that, depending on the cars' position, type of ground & how high you need to raise it, it could be quite dangerous to use the first position.
 

grenadierboy

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I wonder if it's possible to design/weld in boxed jack receivers like on my 60s Benzes and Fiat?
Hi lift jacks always provide the opportunity for disfigurement of vehicle or operator.
Older Porsches also have a jacking point sill opening (to receive the jack bolt). It is welded into/onto the underside of the chassis frame behind the sill.

I don't like using it to change a tyre because the jack bolt can easily slide out of the opening if the car & jack are not level.

I guess a receiving "box" could be welded to the underside of the rock slider.


IMG_7229.JPG
 

Tazzieman

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Those older jacks are angled to account for the tilt when using them. That said , if the car is on dodgy ground it's a bit of a risk.
And 4x4s are often on very dodgy ground!
 
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grenadierboy

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Those older jacks are angled to account for the tilt when using them. That said , if the car is on dodgy ground it's a bit of a risk.
And 4x4s are often on very dodgy ground!
"bit"?

In the Porsche community original jacks are only for show - no one actually uses them. Everyone has a bottle jack buried in the front!
 
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Thatâs exactly what I needed to know. I spend much of my time in the highlands of Tasmania
fishing, getting fire wood and travelling on some fairly rough tracks. I fear the side steps will not last very long before
they are severely damaged.
fold down step would be a good option, like the ones you sometimes find on old defenders
Pete I’m coming to visit … get ready!
 
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DCPU

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Did you try the second & third concave section.?

I agree that, depending on the cars' position, type of ground & how high you need to raise it, it could be quite dangerous to use the first position.
Tried the second ~ that's the toe position I made the 45mm measurement at in one of the photos.
 

emax

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I have little confidence that the friction between the toes of the lift and the Rock Slider is sufficient. A locked handbrake will of course help. But a rubber flap around one of the parts or between them is advisable, I think.
 

Cheshire cat

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Did you try the second & third concave section.?

I agree that, depending on the cars' position, type of ground & how high you need to raise it, it could be quite dangerous to use the first position.
Looking on YouTube, it seems inflatable jacks have their place and are used by the off-roading community. I saw one guy lift his axles out of the mud with one. Got him out of trouble. In UK, some of the breakdown and mobile tyre replacement services also opt for inflatable devices.
 

DCPU

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I have little confidence that the friction between the toes of the lift and the Rock Slider is sufficient. A locked handbrake will of course help. But a rubber flap around one of the parts or between them is advisable, I think.
Yes, I might dig out a little flap of rubber to put between the two. If I'm honest, it would be more to protect the finish of the rock slider than adding friction - but more friction is good for a straight lifting operation at the side.

Confidence with a hilift jack only really comes with thoughtful use; but then what lifting operation should be carried out otherwise?

I have some re-purposed ice hockey pucks for use on other vehicles. I might see if I can profile a channel in one to fit the profile of the rock slider tube .
 

bemax

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Looking on YouTube, it seems inflatable jacks have their place and are used by the off-roading community. I saw one guy lift his axles out of the mud with one. Got him out of trouble. In UK, some of the breakdown and mobile tyre replacement services also opt for inflatable devices.
😀
Try this one.
If you balance them well, it could easily lift five Grenadier at once.
 
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globalgregors

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I have little confidence that the friction between the toes of the lift and the Rock Slider is sufficient. A locked handbrake will of course help. But a rubber flap around one of the parts or between them is advisable, I think.
When in doubt, fencing wire through the foot of the jack.
 

DCPU

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Looking on YouTube, it seems inflatable jacks have their place and are used by the off-roading community. I saw one guy lift his axles out of the mud with one. Got him out of trouble. In UK, some of the breakdown and mobile tyre replacement services also opt for inflatable devices.
I looked carefully at inflatable jack's many years ago but decided against them. A little faffy to set up with exhaust clamps and bungs and then you have to be very careful that the bags don't expand into areas you don't want it to and catch brake lines, etc. Maybe they've switched over to air now.

I imagine the breakdown and tyre people are running them off a compressor.
 

Cheshire cat

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I looked carefully at inflatable jack's many years ago but decided against them. A little faffy to set up with exhaust clamps and bungs and then you have to be very careful that the bags don't expand into areas you don't want it to and catch brake lines, etc. Maybe they've switched over to air now.

I imagine the breakdown and tyre people are running them off a compressor.
The latest ones seem to run off exhaust.
 

emax

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I have some re-purposed ice hockey pucks
I have sometimes used cut out pieces from old tires.

For the hydraulic jack in my workshop, very much like the one in the Grenadier, I've cut a solid steel plate, size about 5x10 cm and welded a ring, a cut off from a steel tube, flat in the center of the metals plate surface. This ring goes over the jacks steel rod which comes out on the top.

On the other side of the metal plate I glued a piece of rubber cut out from an old tire. Doesn't slide off, neither from the jack nor from the load.

Looks old, is old: made it 40 years ago.

Load side (top):
20230513_143331.JPG


Jack side (bottom):
20230513_143346.JPG
 
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