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New software is now out 11th Sept 2023 (SW0000000364001946)

Got the new software update yesterday but have only driven about 10km. That being said, seems like less bings & bongs so far.

It is saying "refuel soon" and the tank is at 38%, so a bit disappointed however it seems like they ran several litres (petrol) through yesterday and it's showing that everything was "reset" and it's "19.2l/100km" so I'll have to wait and see if it sorts itself out. At these figures, I still would have expected closer to 170km remaining, not "118km refuel soon" as it says in orange.
My Mercedes has distance remaining as well but it is calculated based on average consumption since you started the vehicle, or when first starting the average in memory when you stopped.
So if I was driving hard around town and average was 15L/100 kms then when I start it will tell me I have a range of 460 kms left.
Then I turn onto the motorway and the average consumption drops and suddenly I have 800kms left then 1,100 kms left etc etc
I think the worst economy I have seen is 18L/100kms 15MPG or 13 USMPG and the best is 4.2 L/100 kms 67 MPG or 56 USMPG
Typical is around 4.6 L/100 on motorway as shown below on a 30 degree day.
As you can see by the red "S" I was driving in Sport mode not economy mode.
That would give me a range of just under 1,500kms from 69 litre tank.
I am guessing on the Grenadier I will use about 12L/100kms when she is run in so maybe 750 kms from a tank.



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Got the new software update yesterday but have only driven about 10km. That being said, seems like less bings & bongs so far.

It is saying "refuel soon" and the tank is at 38%, so a bit disappointed however it seems like they ran several litres (petrol) through yesterday and it's showing that everything was "reset" and it's "19.2l/100km" so I'll have to wait and see if it sorts itself out. At these figures, I still would have expected closer to 170km remaining, not "118km refuel soon" as it says in orange.
Interesting that NZ seems to be able to go ahead, bit AU still in hold as of yesterday? How different can NZ and AU cars be?
 
So just to give my personal update. I received my car on Saturday 23rd Sept 2023 and it has the latest software update - as far as I know (1946)

So far, I've had no warning messages whatsoever, but can't really comment if the software has fixed known errors, as I only know about the software with the update. However, based on what I've read, it seems to have taken care of most of the issues I was hearing about from others, i.e., spurious/random warning messages about transmission, steering etc.

Also, my fuel consumption looks to be spot on, reading on average 11.3-13 l/100km and tank level looks to be spot on. I've travelled about 534km so far and tank is showing below about 1/3 full and remaining km's about 175, This would be approx. 700km's on a full tank.

I think this will improve a bit when the car loosens up, but I'm pretty happy with that!

 
Thanks for sharing the info... all sounds quite positive.
One more thing...do you have a winch or not? If not, is there power to the NATO plug at the rear?
 
Thanks for sharing the info... all sounds quite positive.
One more thing...do you have a winch or not? If not, is there power to the NATO plug at the rear?
Sorry Dennis, no winch for mine....maybe at some point, so cannot confirm nato plug operation. I would anticipate it should all be sorted now though!
 
Sorry Dennis, no winch for mine....maybe at some point, so cannot confirm nato plug operation. I would anticipate it should all be sorted now though!
Sorry, I'm trying to clarify : Do you have the NATO outlet socket at the rear (LHS)? If so, with engine running (in park!) and you turn on the overhead console "Power" switch, can you detect any power to the NATO socket terminals with a multimeter?
As currently configured, the NATO socket has no power source unless the optional front winch was installed.. much frustration for those wanting to use it but without a winch.
It's a "hot topic" as to whether the software upgrade included provision for the NATO socket to be powered. I don't have a winch fitted either.... but I want the NATO socket to be powered..when I activate the power switch.
Are you able to confirm yeah or nay?:D:unsure:
 
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Sorry, I'm trying to clarify : Do you have the NATO outlet socket at the rear (LHS)? If so, with engine running (in park!) and you turn on the overhead console "Power" switch, can you detect any power to the NATO socket terminals with a multimeter?
As currently configured, the NATO socket has no power source unless the optional front winch was installed.. much frustration for those wanting to use it but without a winch.
It's a "hot topic" as to whether the software upgrade included provision for the NATO socket to be powered. I don't have a winch fitted either.... but I want the NATO socket to be powered..when I activate the power switch.
Are you able to confirm yeah or nay?:D:unsure:
Denis do you have any power at all to the large red cable of the Nato solenoid? Engine off that is.
solenoid wire.jpg
 
Denis do you have any power at all to the large red cable of the Nato solenoid? Engine off that is.
View attachment 7827867
I'll have to check and get back to you... (due to a structural reno on our house, I'm forced to street park ATM and our little narrow "cul de sac" street is usually chockers with with tradie dual cabs attending other premises... even opening car doors can become a WHS /OHS challenge!... so I have to climb in, close the doors and work out how to remove the panels.. which I'll have to do to anyway to complete the dashcam install to the rear door:rolleyes:
 
The Albright solenoid can only be accessed after the trim panel is removed. As a quick test it's probably more convenient to put a multimeter between this stud in the 5-way Littelfuse box and ground, with the ignition switch ON. If there is power at this stud there will be power at the supply (hot) side of the Albright solenoid that supplies the NATO socket. It's the other end of the same cable.
@bakepl I think you have already swapped out the z-case fuse at that marked stud?
 

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I'll have to check and get back to you... (due to a structural reno on our house, I'm forced to street park ATM and our little narrow "cul de sac" street is usually chockers with with tradie dual cabs attending other premises... even opening car doors can become a WHS /OHS challenge!... so I have to climb in, close the doors and work out how to remove the panels.. which I'll have to do to anyway to complete the dashcam install to the rear door:rolleyes:
If you do have power to the solenoid then it's real easy taking the already installed compressor relay wire, (third smaller wire bundled with 2 other spare wires that are under the rear seat) to the Nato solenoid. This smaller wire powers up with ignition 'on' so you will have power all the time to the Nato. I've done this so it always powers my van when plugged in, in the same manner as an anderson for a van would be be powered up with ignition on. All presuming you have the compressor wires pre-installed of course.
 
The Albright solenoid can only be accessed after the trim panel is removed. As a quick test it's probably more convenient to put a multimeter between this stud in the 5-way Littelfuse box and ground, with the ignition switch ON. If there is power at this stud there will be power at the supply (hot) side of the Albright solenoid that supplies the NATO socket. It's the other end of the same cable.
@bakepl I think you have already swapped out the z-case fuse at that marked stud?
I was going to swap it out but ended up keeping it standard, after all, its there to protect it's wiring not what device is attached to the other end (which I have correctly fused to protect that) if that all makes sense....
 
If you do have power to the solenoid then it's real easy taking the already installed compressor relay wire, (third smaller wire bundled with 2 other spare wires that are under the rear seat) to the Nato solenoid. This smaller wire powers up with ignition 'on' so you will have power all the time to the Nato. I've done this so it always powers my van when plugged in, in the same manner as an anderson for a van would be be powered up with ignition on. All presuming you have the compressor wires pre-installed of course.
Thanks @bakepl ! Yes I have located the three wires. I was contemplating attaching each to its own small Busbar inside separate plastic covers as distribution points for other devices (TBD) which may or may not require the ignition switch. So many options!
I guess my overriding philosophy has been to have power /wiring options but to be able to quickly unplug/remove the devices... if that makes sense...
 
Thanks @bakepl ! Yes I have located the three wires. I was contemplating attaching each to its own small Busbar inside separate plastic covers as distribution points for other devices (TBD) which may or may not require the ignition switch. So many options!
I guess my overriding philosophy has been to have power /wiring options but to be able to quickly unplug/remove the devices... if that makes sense...
Yes, if you're not using the spares for a compressor then a busbar or fused distribution box makes sense. I'm not using them at present as I have taken the 'consumer' 80amps out of the ctek smartpass to a busbar. Might do something later but just waiting for some bits to install a twin compressor and that will do it.. for the time being that is.. 😉
 
UPDATE
Just back from a week in Cumbria, Scotland and Northumbria after my ineos major overhaul and update to 1946. 1200 miles with caravan at times.
NOT A FU&K*NG PEEP!! 😎
This is the car I wanted and hoped for.🖖
Ps. Where's DCPU?
 
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This evening I received an email from Ineos - NEWSFLASH SOFTWARE UPDATE AVAILABLE.
I took delivery of my diesel 5 seat Utility on 9 May (was it called a Station Wagon then?) and to be honest apart from the odd spurious message, which are becoming fewer, I am not aware of any faults. Therefore, I won’t be in a hurry for the upgrade.🏴‍☠️

WHERE IS DCPU? 🤷‍♂️
 
My dealer told me that they would contact me for an appointment once they trust the update. I thought that was a good approach. My warnings are bearable. The car bongs sometimes when I run over a pothole and on Sunday the TPMS insisted on warning me for high pressure at 3.0bar at both rear tyres (I had been going max. Speed for a while, tyre temperature was 50°C). And a short transmission error warning every now and then after start which disappears quickly.
 
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