NATO Plug,Socket

[DaveB]

Yes it's now charging the aux, the charger is mimicing the alternator, the Smartpass flicks to the aux once the main is looked after.

Excellent.
I have ordered the extra battery

 

[MarkH]

I wouldn't be using the NATO socket for jump starting, safer to use posts under bonnet with rated cabling and known direct connection to battery. I carry a jump starter as well as leads, just need to check it every 6mths for charge, the phone reminds me. Easier to deploy and doesn't involved positioning the vehicles. I jump started a couple's Troopy on Fraser Isl with it a few years back, they were stranded up at Ocean Lake, most had already vacated the island due to some wild weather so they were pretty much on their own. We were heading back down the beach and spotted him waving frantically, he was a tad relieved to see us. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3740388...d=link&campid=5338980679&toolid=20001&mkevt=1

 

[Camskii]

Well I've checked it this morning and the screen is displaying a charge of 96% and a voltage of 12.8v. It was measured at the starter battery at 12.8v also, but with the ignition off:
View attachment 7811819

The interesting thing is the CTEK is showing the battery as more depleted and the auxilary battery was showing a voltage of 13.2v. It sort of suggests to me that it has moved over from the starter battery and is charging the auxilary now:

View attachment 7811820

Does the charging screen just show what is going in and out of the the main battery or both? My understanding is that it works off an Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS) attached to the negative terminal but not sure if that's on both batteries or just the main

 

[MarkH]

Does the charging screen just show what is going in and out of the the main battery or both? My understanding is that it works off an Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS) attached to the negative terminal but not sure if that's on both batteries or just the main

Main batt only I'd say as needs to work on vehicles without an aux battery, and the Smartpass isn't a permanent connection linking the 2 batteries which you'd need to have to monitor both as one bank.

 

[Camskii]

Main batt only I'd say as needs to work on vehicles without an aux battery, and the Smartpass isn't a permanent connection linking the 2 batteries which you'd need to have to monitor both as one bank.

Ah ok that's a bummer. Was hoping not to have to install a battery monitor and shunt to monitor the auxillary battery

 

[MarkH]

Ah ok that's a bummer. Was hoping not to have to install a battery monitor and shunt to monitor the auxillary battery

I'll just add a voltage display for the aux battery up front somewhere. No real need for a battery monitor and shunt with lead acid. Voltage gives enough indication of state of charge.

 

[DCPU]

Main batt only I'd say as needs to work on vehicles without an aux battery, and the Smartpass isn't a permanent connection linking the 2 batteries which you'd need to have to monitor both as one bank.

Yes, I think I agree. I've tried toggling the screen to see if there's a secondary one for the auxiliary but there isn't (or I didn't find it). It would be nice to have one ~ maybe that's for the list of improvements for the MkII Grenadier.

Failing that, I think there's third party kit available:

https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/12-volt-battery-monitors.12411766/#post-1333171364

 

[Camskii]

I guess the other complete mystery is what on earth does the second battery actually power then? Only seems to be the usb ports and rear ciggie socket - none of the other 10A or 25A switches.

 

[DCPU]

I guess the other complete mystery is what on earth does the second battery actually power then? Only seems to be the usb ports and rear ciggie socket - none of the other 10A or 25A switches.

I think the two rear passenger USBs and the 12v loadspace are not part of the auxiliary battery package, so presumably they are powered off the main starter battery?

I think it's for the owner to decide what to run off it via it's own fusebox?

As it's wired, via the Smartpass, then it pulse charges the main starter battery. The main starter battery being subject to the normal parasitic losses such as alarm, etc. and it will power the starter motor in tandem with the main starter battery if it senses it is required.

 

[DCPU]

I'll just add a voltage display for the aux battery up front somewhere. No real need for a battery monitor and shunt with lead acid. Voltage gives enough indication of state of charge.

I'm going to have to print that out and have it laminated. I'm too old to try and memorise that!

Do any of the voltage displays cycle between the two sets of figures?

 

[TheDocAUS]

I'm going to have to print that out and have it laminated. I'm too old to try and memorise that!

Do any of the voltage displays cycle between the two sets of figures?

Or you could just install a cheap battery monitor, like the BLE, that measures capacity based on voltage.

 

[Lollo050968]

For Germany, I found this interesting HP:

www.trucksystems.de

search for Nato

 

[DCPU]

Or you could just install a cheap battery monitor, like the BLE, that measures capacity based on voltage.

Thanks, I had a read of that.

Is it from 2020 or 2021? Any additional comments on long term performance of the BLE unit. It seems there's even more look a likes on the market now, some priced down to less than £15!

 

[TheDocAUS]

Thanks, I had a read of that.

Is it from 2020 or 2021? Any additional comments on long term performance of the BLE unit. It seems there's even more look a likes on the market now, some priced down to less than £15!

Two of my 4 BLE's are still going strong.

The other two perished in the big crash of the Nissan Patrol. They were also going fine until then.

 

[DCPU]

Just a couple of photos on my NATO socket taken this afternoon, whilst checking for actual power...and finding none as reported by @rovie on this thread - post #358:

https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/high-load-auxiliary-switch-panel.12410279/page-18#post-1333179077

I did notice a small couple of areas with light corrosion. It's lightweight aluminium with seemingly no protective coating so prone to this I guess. The cap is also aluminium, so the ali on ali screw mechanism feels dreadful. I smeared just a very light coating of silicone grease to make the cap action feel that much better and hopefully not stick itself together. I also noticed some debris in the bottom of the cap which also has a rubber diaphram type end seal.

I don't know if I want to turn the socket the other way around, I assume they are all fitted this way?

 

[TheDocAUS]

AUSTRALIA - NATO to Anderson adapter update
Connector-Tech ALS continue to work on a NATO to Anderson plug adapter. I saw an image of the latest prototype today. Very rugged and well made, but more work in being done as well as testing.

They expect to have a final adapter on sale around the time the cars start hitting the roads in Australia.

The components (plugs, cables, etc) are all high end to endure Australian conditions. I have no idea on price but quality does cost. I would rather buy it once and buy it right. I have seen first hand how cheap rubbish fails in the Outback.

 

[AnD3rew]

AUSTRALIA - NATO to Anderson adapter update
Connector-Tech ALS continue to work on a NATO to Anderson plug adapter. I saw an image of the latest prototype today. Very rugged and well made, but more work in being done as well as testing.

They expect to have a final adapter on sale around the time the cars start hitting the roads in Australia.

The components (plugs, cables, etc) are all high end to endure Australian conditions. I have no idea on price but quality does cost. I would rather buy it once and buy it right. I have seen first hand how cheap rubbish fails in the Outback.

I have just bought a couple of their bare plugs. I have all the needed crimping gear etc and Anderson plugs. Will make up my own. Will do one with a standard Anderson and a short wire run to keep it tight. Haven’t decided on the other yet, I do have a set of Jumper cables that already have the large 175amp plug on them so I may make up one with that plug to use the jumper cables. I will also probably make up a standard Anderson to Deutsche adapter so I can use the two together and plug in accessories that I can use either on the roof plugs or the Nato.

 

[DCPU]

Well let's hope this software update arrives soon...

How can Ineos Customer Services be less well informed than third party agents?

 

[AnD3rew]

Just made my first projects. NATO with long lead and 175amp Anderson plug. Will mate with my Jumper leads with 175amp Anderson plug. So can use for jumping and also have a 175amp to standard Anderson plug so can just be used for an extension cord. Also a short NATO to standard Anderson for trailer power and compressor etc. Just waiting for my Deutsche DTP plugs to arrive and will make some various adapters etc for those. Probably Deutsche to Anderson, and Deutsche to cigarette sockets etc.

 

[rovie]

Just made my first projects. NATO with long lead and 175amp Anderson plug. Will mate with my Jumper leads with 175amp Anderson plug. So can use for jumping and also have a 175amp to standard Anderson plug so can just be used for an extension cord. Also a short NATO to standard Anderson for trailer power and compressor etc. Just waiting for my Deutsche DTP plugs to arrive and will make some various adapters etc for those. Probably Deutsche to Anderson, and Deutsche to cigarette sockets etc.
View attachment 7814518

@AnD3rew Do you also use the IWISS IWD-16 tool for the Deutsch plugs?