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Heating system is useless

Mine is slow to heat up and max heat is sub par max heat. I just leave it on floor/defrost level 2 in the cold. Dash/floor results in a whistle on level 2, which is unfortunate, as the rear get no flow without the dash, which is idiotic,. That should be floor and dash with flow controlled by the rear seat passengers. My "Queen of noticing anything not right and mentioning it immediately" was quick to note this when she had to use the rear seat.
See my comment above yours
Neither of us was best pleased with heating system when I first got it but perseverance does fix it.
Mine heats up within 5mins and that was after a couple of days at -6c
 
See my comment above yours
Neither of us was best pleased with heating system when I first got it but perseverance does fix it.
Mine heats up within 5mins and that was after a couple of days at -6c on floor I get NO air out of the rear vents, which is the biggest
I do see that, and and that's on the service list. The unit sending NO air to the rear unless it's on dash though, seems to be the ducting scheme.

Unless of course, mine is malfunctioning. If changing function on 3 or higher, I can get a flap noise that sounds much like 25yo Zimm playing "double D motorboat" in Reno.
 
I do see that, and and that's on the service list. The unit sending NO air to the rear unless it's on dash though, seems to be the ducting scheme.

Unless of course, mine is malfunctioning. If changing function on 3 or higher, I can get a flap noise that sounds much like 25yo Zimm playing "double D motorboat" in Reno.
I have had that at one point, even after the bleeding when on full heat auto, I have a video of it but it's to large to add to the site and I'm an idiot when it comes to computer stuff
Mine has seemed to have sorted itself by using it now it's working
 
I have been very fortunate with my HVAC system, no issues. Only had the vehicle for 2 months or so with 1200 miles on it (3/24 Build Date Build # 17256). Until recently I was using manual control and found the system temperatures would swing high and low needing constant adjustment. I was not happy with this until I tried the Auto function. Once I changed over to Auto I have not touched the controls since. Maintains an even temperature and warms up rather quickly.
 
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What steps did you do? What was the delta!?
I made sure that the coolant was topped off, then followed the procedure a couple pages back on this thread. I didn't IR the vents or anything, but over 60 miles and stopping/starting the engine a few times, I couldn't detect any fluctuation in temps in the cabin for the first time. It used to be every time I made a stop somewhere and got back in, I'd have to adjust it, and often on the road it would go along fine for a long time, then suddenly go psycho on me and go up or down 20 degrees or so. Anyway, quite simple to follow the steps. Good luck-hope you have some success as well.
 
My heat works really well in one setting only. I shut the rear vents. I put it on the second setting where it blows on your feet and front vents at the same time. It blows hot and get the car almost too hot at times

If I change the setting to blow straight out, I lose temperature and it blows warm, not hot.

But the second setting, feet/straight out works great. I have no idea why.
This is exactly my issue. Heat works great in all other mods except position #1.
 
154 F 67.7 C Inside Central vent
149 F 65 C inside the Side Vent
119 F /87 C Inside Vent for your feet

Above the Central and Side vents 90 -95 F degrees near top of the vents

I was seeing 80 F down in foot well in the general area.

This was short drive from my house down to Durango 's Albertsons and back. about 7 miles there and 7 mile back

I did not have heat all the way up- and it still really warm in the car, @skibum35 I would have Red Noland take a look at your truck if it is now getting hot.

View attachment 7881611

The Vent for your feet, what would help is another vent over by the door for you feet.
View attachment 7881610
Try the test again with the A/C off - I have found that unlike the last 20 cars that I have owned that the Grenadier HVAC works MUCH better for heating with the A/C off and have had no fogging issues so far.
 
I am referring to “process of elimination”.

Rear vent is blowing hot hot air, while the face is blowing cold air, surely this symptom doesn’t indicate issue with the coolant level. So we can eliminate that as a root cause?

The above issue is what many are observing. Throwing out the “top off coolant” solution doesn’t add value for this kind of issue, no?
You are experiencing the exact same thing I am experiencing. No matter the position - the rear heat is VERY hot, but on setting “1” (face) the heat is marginal. I have to believe that it has something to do with the diverter in the dash either pulling air from the outside. I have not studied the HVAC system layout, but this is the only thing that would make sense.
 
You are experiencing the exact same thing I am experiencing. No matter the position - the rear heat is VERY hot, but on setting “1” (face) the heat is marginal. I have to believe that it has something to do with the diverter in the dash either pulling air from the outside. I have not studied the HVAC system layout, but this is the only thing that would make sense.
Mine was exactly the same. The bleeding procedure needed to be done a few times to eventually fix it. It really is just needs bleeding, I know it doesn't make sense, it didn't to me, but it will work if you persevere.
 
We are talking about different vents and different hvac settings as the cause of whether hot air comes out of the face vents.

Coolant system issue would ensure consistent lack of hot air in any conditions, no?

The fact that it requires specific hvac settings to ensure hot air coming out of the face vents, makes me think it’s a hvac issue.
Exactly this. No amount of bleeding will change the position one upper vents temperature difference. If you have crazy heat in all positions but not on upper vents it has nothing to do with air in the system. I don’t know how people think bleeding the system will change that. There’s one heater core and if it’s hot then it’s hot.
 
Exactly this. No amount of bleeding will change the position one upper vents temperature difference. If you have crazy heat in all positions but not on upper vents it has nothing to do with air in the system. I don’t know how people think bleeding the system will change that. There’s one heater core and if it’s hot then it’s hot.
I don't know modern car hvac systems, but are there supply and return thermocouples regulating according to the temperature settings? Maybe check the wiring diagrams in the service manual we got.
 
I don't know modern car hvac systems, but are there supply and return thermocouples regulating according to the temperature settings? Maybe check the wiring diagrams in the service manual we got.
It’s definitely a blend door issue. If you put it in position 1 central vents are hotter than outer vents and generally warm. If you put it in position 2 Face vents and feet you have all the heat. Any other position has all the heat. Only position 1 has the “warm” air issue. That implies the blend doors are not putting full airflow through the heater core. If we had a heater box to dismantle we likely could figure it out.
 
Exactly this. No amount of bleeding will change the position one upper vents temperature difference. If you have crazy heat in all positions but not on upper vents it has nothing to do with air in the system. I don’t know how people think bleeding the system will change that. There’s one heater core and if it’s hot then it’s hot.
Mine used to blow hot out of some vents and cold out of others, I took did not believe that bleeding the system would fix this but after 3 or 4 attempts it does. Bleeding the system will fix the weird hot and cold vents. Now it is still a temperamental thing, if I have on auto warm to hot it's good. If I blow hot air on feet for a long time then go to auto it will blow cold on feet and warm on face. The solution to this is ice cold on feet for a few minutes then go auto and all works fine.
 
It’s definitely a blend door issue. If you put it in position 1 central vents are hotter than outer vents and generally warm. If you put it in position 2 Face vents and feet you have all the heat. Any other position has all the heat. Only position 1 has the “warm” air issue. That implies the blend doors are not putting full airflow through the heater core. If we had a heater box to dismantle we likely could figure it out.
Assuming you're right, which I will, what I'm wondering is if the system is doing this because of errant reading of the temperature for some reason. There are no manual controls. How do we know the blend door isn't exactly where the controller thinks it should be? If there are themocouples, it may not be a broken flapper or position sensor. We, or more accurately I, have no idea what inputs there are.
 
Mine used to blow hot out of some vents and cold out of others, I took did not believe that bleeding the system would fix this but after 3 or 4 attempts it does. Bleeding the system will fix the weird hot and cold vents. Now it is still a temperamental thing, if I have on auto warm to hot it's good. If I blow hot air on feet for a long time then go to auto it will blow cold on feet and warm on face. The solution to this is ice cold on feet for a few minutes then go auto and all works fine.
Correlation is not causation, especially if you are aided by knowledge of how the heating system works. There isn’t some bifurcation of heat source amongst the vents.

We should stop spreading this gospel. Process of elimination is highly useful here.. if you have blistering hot air somewhere in the hvac system, then it’s not an “air in the system” issue.

Sending owners down wild goose chase is zero value
 
Correlation is not causation, especially if you are aided by knowledge of how the heating system works. There isn’t some bifurcation of heat source amongst the vents.

We should stop spreading this gospel. Process of elimination is highly useful here.. if you have blistering hot air somewhere in the hvac system, then it’s not an “air in the system” issue.

Sending owners down wild goose chase is zero value
I had burning hot air out of rear vents and cool air in front, there would be hot air on feet cold on windscreen or face. Bleeding fixed it. This was my vehicle and I had different temperatures out of the various vents and bleeding it a number of times fixed it.
 
Correlation is not causation, especially if you are aided by knowledge of how the heating system works. There isn’t some bifurcation of heat source amongst the vents.

We should stop spreading this gospel. Process of elimination is highly useful here.. if you have blistering hot air somewhere in the hvac system, then it’s not an “air in the system” issue.

Sending owners down wild goose chase is zero value
I think most people don’t understand how vehicle heaters work.
 
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