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Heating system is useless

I am referring to “process of elimination”.

Rear vent is blowing hot hot air, while the face is blowing cold air, surely this symptom not the coolant level. So we can eliminate that as a root cause?

The above issue is what many are observing. Throwing out the “top off coolant” solution doesn’t add value for this kind of issue, no?
This was my exact problem, hot rear vents, cold front face vent.
Cold foot vent warm/hot face vent.
Hot feet, cold screen.
So to your question, the system can blow hot and cold at the same time. They had to bleed mine 3-4 times to get right. Persistence is required by the dealer to get working properly
 
This was my exact problem, hot rear vents, cold front face vent.
Cold foot vent warm/hot face vent.
Hot feet, cold screen.
So to your question, the system can blow hot and cold at the same time. They had to bleed mine 3-4 times to get right. Persistence is required by the dealer to get working properly
So you are saying your vent-specific hot / cold air was resolved via coolant bleeding? Interesting
 
So you are saying your vent-specific hot / cold air was resolved via coolant bleeding? Interesting
I was like you at first and couldn't work out how bleeding the system would fix it but it does.
It throws a wobbly if i have full heat on my feet for a long time then go for auto. I blows warm through the face vents and cold at my feet. Turn to full cold and let it blow for a while and it then seems to work on auto, or if I've stopped and got out it will work normally on auto after excess heat on feet. Bit of a nuisance but I can live with it as ultimately I can get warm now and stay warm.
As I've said before, it works but is a bit slow and dim witted.
 
I feel like I’ve won the lottery with my gren because the HVAC works exactly as I would expect it to and in fact is one of the best systems I’ve had, much better than my shogun sport and the various Volvos I’ve had before that. It gives good even and consistent heating and cooling and now that the temperature is really cold I’m super impressed with the speed that it defrosts the windscreen. The air from the windscreen vent seems to get warm very very quickly, which makes me wonder whether there is an electric heating element in there to provide hot air to the screen before the engine warms up. Anybody know?
 
Got the bleeding procedure going as we speak. We shall see if that makes things a little more stable. The engine revving up and down sounds like it's a thing possessed, I must say.
 
  • My AC works as expected about 90% of the time.
  • My heat works as expected about 70% of the time.
  • My blower and/or ducting whistles all the time. Moderately annoying. Dealer has ordered a blower to swap but I'm thinking it could easily be faulty ducting/installation/sealing/design.
  • My seat heat works 100% of the time.
 
Got the bleeding procedure going as we speak. We shall see if that makes things a little more stable. The engine revving up and down sounds like it's a thing possessed, I must say.
Maybe a silly question. Following the Ineos bleeding procedure, do you need to remove both coolant caps (black and blue) before initiating the process?
 
Got the bleeding procedure going as we speak. We shall see if that makes things a little more stable. The engine revving up and down sounds like it's a thing possessed, I must say.
Make sure to top up and if not fixed, do it again when car has cooled down and then again, and so on until it works, it will work. Put some miles on it maybe.
I've heard some of the dealers are improving on their procedure, do not ask me what, I have no idea.
 
  • My AC works as expected about 90% of the time.
  • My heat works as expected about 70% of the time.
  • My blower and/or ducting whistles all the time. Moderately annoying. Dealer has ordered a blower to swap but I'm thinking it could easily be faulty ducting/installation/sealing/design.
  • My seat heat works 100% of the time.
I'd be interested if the replacement fixes that noise, mine is only loud at full speed but still annoying.
 
I'd be interested if the replacement fixes that noise, mine is only loud at full speed but still annoying.
Mine only whistles in bi level mode, and while the fan speed is greater than 1. That being said the fan’s loudness at 3 & 4 masks the whistle sound, and destroys a calm state of mind 😂
Ineos sourced the temu hvac apparently.
 
Mine only whistles in bi level mode, and while the fan speed is greater than 1. That being said the fan’s loudness at 3 & 4 masks the whistle sound, and destroys a calm state of mind 😂
Ineos sourced the temu hvac apparently.
My heat and AC work fine just dang whine at full bore... Nothing other than max level and no matter the other directional settings. However I almost always leave it in auto and it barely goes to max but when it does the world knows. lol
 
I used to own a 2013 Subaru. I experienced one incident of non-heat in 10 years of ownership.

When I reassemble the dashboard, after
installing an aftermarket radio, I accidentally disconnected the mechanical link between the temperature dial and the flap that routes hot air from the cooling system.

I restored that mechanical linkage. Flap moves again vial twist of dial. HVAC issue resolved!

What genius from Ineos decided to masquerade a temu digital Rube Goldberg machine via fake analog dials? 10 years later we now have a digital intermediary between human and moving of flaps, that is now so convoluted, a multi-billion dollar operation can not resolve it (working as designed) 🤣

It’s actually funny as hell (if it wasn’t my car) to hear the flap move and air swirl, in a delayed fashion, after digital contact is made via the dial. If I had preschool age kid in the car I would tell them a tiny worker is doing all that work inside the dashboard
 
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My heat works really well in one setting only. I shut the rear vents. I put it on the second setting where it blows on your feet and front vents at the same time. It blows hot and get the car almost too hot at times

If I change the setting to blow straight out, I lose temperature and it blows warm, not hot.

But the second setting, feet/straight out works great. I have no idea why.
 
Well, that seems to have done something-I rode about 60 miles today since bleeding, seemed a lot more stable. I had the caps on, coolant is full, tried to go buy some at the local auto parts store, they didn't have any.
 
My heat works really well in one setting only. I shut the rear vents. I put it on the second setting where it blows on your feet and front vents at the same time. It blows hot and get the car almost too hot at times

If I change the setting to blow straight out, I lose temperature and it blows warm, not hot.

But the second setting, feet/straight out works great. I have no idea why.
Needs bleeding

Answer to everyone here is,
Your system needs bleeding until it works
 
Maybe a silly question. Following the Ineos bleeding procedure, do you need to remove both coolant caps (black and blue) before initiating the process?
Remove when bleeding so that you can top up as necessary during it's thing
 
Have you guys checked the temperature coming out of the rear center vents? Mine felt like they were 200* while the front blew out cool air. Shut the rear vents and now the whole car gets toasty.
I noticed an improvement shutting off the rear vents. However have to have the temp set on max (32oC) to get any heat up front and feet are always cold!
 
I noticed an improvement shutting off the rear vents. However have to have the temp set on max (32oC) to get any heat up front and feet are always cold!
Keep bleeding the system until it works properly
 
Mine is slow to heat up and max heat is sub par max heat. I just leave it on floor/defrost level 2 in the cold. Dash/floor results in a whistle on level 2, which is unfortunate, as the rear get no flow without the dash, which is idiotic,. That should be floor and dash with flow controlled by the rear seat passengers. My "Queen of noticing anything not right and mentioning it immediately" was quick to note this when she had to use the rear seat.
 
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