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GrenX Ineos Grenadier 68L Auxiliary Fuel Sub Tank Brown Davis

I’d love to get Ineos’ view regarding the muffler delete. As much as I’d love the extra capacity, without some explanation other than just that it doesn’t sound any different I’m inclined not to be an early adopter on this one.

For the limited times you really need extra fuel, I’m inclined to have an extra 80L on the roof for a few hundred kms, draining it progressively as it’s used.
 
I’d love to get Ineos’ view regarding the muffler delete. As much as I’d love the extra capacity, without some explanation other than just that it doesn’t sound any different I’m inclined not to be an early adopter on this one.

For the limited times you really need extra fuel, I’m inclined to have an extra 80L on the roof for a few hundred kms, draining it progressively as it’s used.
Milltek's exhaust is literally a muffler delete for the B58 (non-resonated)... it's definitely louder, but not much (plenty of videos on the YouTube)
 
Greater fuel capacity is always appreciated and kudos to all efforts to continue to improve the IG! There may be a reason why it is labeled as "diesel only"; the location of the auxiliary tank - behind the rear axle. It is my understanding (to be clear I am not an expert) that diesel may be less volatile and/or less flammable if there is a rear collision. For those in my generation you may recall the Ford Pinto and issues with the location of the gas tank.

There may also be US DOT restrictions to importing an auxiliary tank for the IG (for the reason mentioned above). The manufacturer may have have to classify it as "for off road use only" if sold or imported to the USA.
 
Greater fuel capacity is always appreciated and kudos to all efforts to continue to improve the IG! There may be a reason why it is labeled as "diesel only"; the location of the auxiliary tank - behind the rear axle. It is my understanding (to be clear I am not an expert) that diesel may be less volatile and/or less flammable if there is a rear collision. For those in my generation you may recall the Ford Pinto and issues with the location of the gas tank.

There may also be US DOT restrictions to importing an auxiliary tank for the IG (for the reason mentioned above). The manufacturer may have have to classify it as "for off road use only" if sold or imported to the USA.
There are a number of vehicles that have aftermarket aux. tanks that sit behind the axle (just in the Toyota realm, Long Range makes aux tanks for the 5th gen 4Runner, 80 series, 100 series, and 200 series LCs come to mind). These tanks are all made of steel, and are installed in the spare tire area. As with many things in the aftermarket world, they are classified as "off road use only", my guess is that the statement is primarily to allow sales in the state of California, which is basically like the "no mans land" of aftermarket fuel tanks of any sort (even those that replace the OEM tank) from what I've read
 
There are a number of vehicles that have aftermarket aux. tanks that sit behind the axle (just in the Toyota realm, Long Range makes aux tanks for the 5th gen 4Runner, 80 series, 100 series, and 200 series LCs come to mind). These tanks are all made of steel, and are installed in the spare tire area. As with many things in the aftermarket world, they are classified as "off road use only", my guess is that the statement is primarily to allow sales in the state of California, which is basically like the "no mans land" of aftermarket fuel tanks of any sort (even those that replace the OEM tank) from what I've read
The LRA for the Tacoma, at least for the 2010 Tacoma, is located forward of the rear axle. The spare tire is still in the spare tire area. I installed an LRA on my 2010 Tacoma and it is brilliant. The OEM fuel pump, fuel filer and fuel tank float fit right in to to LRA tank and more impressive is that fuel gauge works beautifully.
 

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The LRA for the Tacoma, at least for the 2010 Tacoma, is located forward of the rear axle. The spare tire is still in the spare tire area. I installed an LRA on my 2010 Tacoma and it is brilliant. The OEM fuel pump, fuel filer and fuel tank float fit right in to to LRA tank and more impressive is that fuel gauge works beautifully.
Yep, I've had the LRA tank on our Tacoma and Tundra, and both were replacement tanks. Our Sprinter has a replacement tank from S&B, however, on the vehicles that don't have room for a larger replacement, LRA does the aux tank with a small fuel pump to transfer fuel to the main tank
 
Yep, I've had the LRA tank on our Tacoma and Tundra, and both were replacement tanks. Our Sprinter has a replacement tank from S&B, however, on the vehicles that don't have room for a larger replacement, LRA does the aux tank with a small fuel pump to transfer fuel to the main tank
We have road tripped - traveled - off road - 4x4 - with the Tacoma across the US. The latest was Tuweep and the Mojave Road. With proper planning we never even came close to running out of fuel. It certainly was nice knowing we had plenty of fuel. For me, I'm going to leave the OEM tank on the IG and if necessary carry either the RotopaX or Wavian Jerry cans. The Giant Loop fuel bladders are also an interesting option. Thanks and talk soon.
 
I'm interested in people's thoughts on this.

It's 68lts (17.9 USG) of fuel plus the tank weight, and located behind the rear axle where it replaces the muffler. I haven't gone back to check, but I recall Robert Pepper thought the rear axle was already a bit down on load capacity plus the weight behind the axle likely reduces the towball limit. I would like to see some calculations on this from Brown Davis so buyers can make an informed decision. The extra range is nice to have but what's the operational impact of fitting this tank?
Peppers problem was with the front axle not the rear. Specifically that with a winch and the mad max bar work Australians love, then one or two robust people would put the front over.
He recommended (ineos) increase the front axle load limit, even at the expense of reducing the rear which he referred to as "extremely high ".

The tank in question should actually help with weight distribution by being behind the rear axle as the leverage effect would relieve some weight from the front if it's close to max. He does mention that in a brief part of the video but only in passing and not specifically as a possible mitigation of the concern as he was voicing it.
 
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Peppers problem was with the front axle not the rear. Specifically that with a winch and the mad max bar work Australians love, then one or two fat ass's would put the front over.
He recommended (ineos) increase the front axle load limit, even at the expense of reducing the rear which he referred to as "extremely high ".

The tank in question should actually help with weight distribution by being behind the rear axle as the leverage effect would relieve some weight from the front if it's close to max. He does mention that in a brief part of the video but only in passing and not specifically as a possible mitigation of the concern as he was voicing it.
And that's what happens when you rely on memory. Thanks for the correction re F&R axles.
 
I posted this elsewhere but since there are several threads on increasing fuel capacity I thought it might offer a cheaper, practical alternative, especially as it's removable when not needed. Depending on how heavily you load the vehicle on a trip, the 100L polytank with its own 12V pump, hose and nozzle seems an ideal option for diesel versions especially if you can accommodate it in/on a camper trailer: AUD$550 inc GST. The only practical issue (to me) appears to be where to stow the hose and nozzle handpiece .
https://www.ablesales.com.au/portab...sale/portable-poly-diesel-tank-100-litre.html

There's a 210 L version for AUD$790 inc GST... I like the manner in which the hose and nozzle pack compactly into the top of the tank... https://www.ablesales.com.au/portab...ortable-poly-diesel-tank-210-litre-dt210.html

Both versions lend themselves to storage in a camper trailer /hybrid van



  • AUTO SHUT OFF FREE FLOW TRIGGER
  • 100 Litre Poly Tank
  • 40LPM/10.6GPM 12v diesel self-priming pump
  • High quality auto shut off nozzle
  • 4 m of 3/4" delivery hose with swivel fitting
  • 4 meter electric cable
  • Size : 92 L x 46 W x 53 H cm
  • Tare Weight 17Kg
    1710731425227.jpeg
 
Peppers problem was with the front axle not the rear. Specifically that with a winch and the mad max bar work Australians love, then one or two robust people would put the front over.
He recommended (ineos) increase the front axle load limit, even at the expense of reducing the rear which he referred to as "extremely high ".

The tank in question should actually help with weight distribution by being behind the rear axle as the leverage effect would relieve some weight from the front if it's close to max. He does mention that in a brief part of the video but only in passing and not specifically as a possible mitigation of the concern as he was voicing it.
@68lt and approx 75kgs there isn't much leverage to be had directly behind the back axle unfortunately, there is 19kgs taken off the front wheels given that the tank weighs 75kgs and the distance behind the axle is 500mm and front axle is approx 2.5m in distance from the fulcrum point.
I'd definitely would love some more wriggle room on the front axle, not sure why it is like it is.
 
Yeah, it wouldn't be much but if you're loading up the front then every kg makes a difference.The front axle is definitely a soft spot on the Gren's belly though, have to build with it in mind.

They probably made the choice prioritizing rear loads instead of balanced payload knowing how most people stuff the back full of things without a second thought to distribution, i kinda get it. But it's not ideal
 
Greater fuel capacity is always appreciated and kudos to all efforts to continue to improve the IG! There may be a reason why it is labeled as "diesel only"; the location of the auxiliary tank - behind the rear axle. It is my understanding (to be clear I am not an expert) that diesel may be less volatile and/or less flammable if there is a rear collision. For those in my generation you may recall the Ford Pinto and issues with the location of the gas tank.

There may also be US DOT restrictions to importing an auxiliary tank for the IG (for the reason mentioned above). The manufacturer may have have to classify it as "for off road use only" if sold or imported to the USA.
I think it maybe due to the fact the diesel has about 20L of adblue (in 2 tanks) above the new aux fuel tank. However, the petrol has no adblue, so a petrol aux tank should be good for about an extra 30L.
 
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We have road tripped - traveled - off road - 4x4 - with the Tacoma across the US. The latest was Tuweep and the Mojave Road. With proper planning we never even came close to running out of fuel. It certainly was nice knowing we had plenty of fuel. For me, I'm going to leave the OEM tank on the IG and if necessary carry either the RotopaX or Wavian Jerry cans. The Giant Loop fuel bladders are also an interesting option. Thanks and talk soon.
Your fuel depots are much more closely spaced than those in Australia. Especially if you want to travel into the bush from one, and make it back again. We have fuel anxiety over here.
 
I managed to get included the larger hi flow diesel fuel filler so it can accept the truck bowsers. Production units will ready around June. $1,997 AUD plus shipping, Installation time around 6 hours. I will be taking orders closer to the production run.

Cheers
Rohan @ GrenX

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I now have completed a few months of testing on the prototype 68L Auxiliary tank. Which I will pass feedback onto BD for some improvements before the roll out begins this month to optimise the system for my fellow owners to get the best results. There is also some considerations to take into account when doing this modifications.

1. I will be getting in contact with BD to slightly reroute the exhaust as I have now found on full flex the new exhaust contacts the chassis and comes very close to the Rear left side shock absorber. The exhaust needs to be moved slightly lower to create more clearance which is a easy fix.
2. For our clients I will be strongly recommending to pair the fuel tank with our Poly Air Airbag system for the rear springs. I have found when you load Roofrack + Drawers + Fuel tank the rear springs will sag and if your towing a caravan the car will not ride level. So rear airbags is a must if your planning to carry additional weight. We will be using the Poly Airbag kit in our upcoming GVM upgrade kit for the Grenadier.
3. After fitting the Tank it makes changing Shocks/springs more difficult & time consuming. There is a skill be be able to do it without having to drop the tank. If anyone is considering doing a spring or shock upgrade it would be advisable to do it before the tank goes in to make fitment alot easier.
4. We tested the euro spec Eibach pro lift springs in a spring dyno and they are more heavy duty spec, they can handle some additional weight in the rear compared to the factory spring rate that came in my personal Grenadier. We found them to increase ride height by around 45mm on the vehicles we tested so they are a great option if you would like additional clearance.

We have some exciting news coming soon on a new 2" lift shock solution we have developed for Australian Grenadier owners which comes with improvement in flex and well as remarkable improvements in handling, steering, safety & confidence.

We are working hard to test and develop and accelerate progress on the Grenadier platform, if you would like to support our endeavour you can order anything you need through GrenX.


Kind Regards
Rohan
 

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Hi guys,
I installed the Brown Davis tank at the BMW dealership. The car is currently grounded because I found some odd issues.
- the technicians cut the exhaust pipe exactly as instructed by the manual, but it seems the supplied muffler extension is short by 3-4 cm. It does not correctly meet with the rest of the exhaust. It could have been avoided if the technician measured in situ before cutting, and not following the instructions. If we try to bring it closer for it to fit into the exhaust pipe, it rubs on the tank.
- They got the pump fitted on the right hand side, between the tank and the bash plate bracket. According to the manual, this is where it should be placed, but somehow it is very tight and does not seem to belong there. The pump bracket rubs on the stabilizer bar at full flex.
- The filler neck pipe (aluminum) rubs on the right spring at full flex.

The printed manual is not very clear, can anyone please help with some detailed pictures or videos of the install process so I can see the pump and the filler neck? I will be forever grateful!
 
Hi guys,
I installed the Brown Davis tank at the BMW dealership. The car is currently grounded because I found some odd issues.
- the technicians cut the exhaust pipe exactly as instructed by the manual, but it seems the supplied muffler extension is short by 3-4 cm. It does not correctly meet with the rest of the exhaust. It could have been avoided if the technician measured in situ before cutting, and not following the instructions. If we try to bring it closer for it to fit into the exhaust pipe, it rubs on the tank.
- They got the pump fitted on the right hand side, between the tank and the bash plate bracket. According to the manual, this is where it should be placed, but somehow it is very tight and does not seem to belong there. The pump bracket rubs on the stabilizer bar at full flex.
- The filler neck pipe (aluminum) rubs on the right spring at full flex.

The printed manual is not very clear, can anyone please help with some detailed pictures or videos of the install process so I can see the pump and the filler neck? I will be forever grateful!
Hi
am in the final phase of fitting the BD tank. Wasn't without drama, some of it my own fault... Was done at "ground level"... trolley jack and car stands. A hoist would be a godsend🙂...
Anyway:
Fuel pump: the instructions for mine from Brown Davis, not GrenX, have the pump mounted in the rear passenger side of the car next to the coil spring. You unbolt the captive bolts holding the brake line and canister bracket to the crossmember, slide the pump bracket above the canister bracket, replace the bolts.
Hope this assists.
 

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PS: In addition to the above, you need to cut the pin holding the RHS exhaust hanger, from the exhaust assembly you removed earlier. This is important. The RHS exhaust hanger is required when reattached to the upper bracket holding the tank in position on the LHS because it needs to face the other way to accept the barb on the revised exhaust extension which comes with the kit.
Once the tank "ear bracket" is in position, the hanger is installed below it with the same bolt. The metal hanger bracket has a bolt hole and a tang for location. The tang location hole is covered by the tank bracket. The tang needs to be flattened. A few "taps" with an engineers hammer against the tang on a solid surface flattens it nicely!
Further, your ability to position the revised exhaust as far to the LHS as possible to avoid the tank, is limited by the position of the exhaust hanger and the diameter of the exhaust extension. It's a close fit with minimal distance to the corner of the tank. (A tweak to the relative orientation of the barb on the pipe if it could be moved maybe 10degrees clockwise when viewing it in position and standing behind the vehicle would enable the pipe to be moved away from the tank....but this is a manufacturing issue).
Q: Does the GrenX version mention any need to wrap insulation to the pipe or put "peel and stick" type insulation matting on the flat surfaces of the tank closest to the exhaust? Certainly the original BD instructions make no mention of this though a couple of members may have added it. I haven't as yet . was wondering if it's necessary...
 
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PS: In addition to the above, you need to cut the pin holding the RHS exhaust hanger, from the exhaust assembly you removed earlier. This is important. The RHS exhaust hanger is required when reattached to the upper bracket holding the tank in position on the LHS because it needs to face the other way to accept the barb on the revised exhaust extension which comes with the kit.
Once the tank "ear bracket" is in position, the hanger is installed below it with the same bolt. The metal hanger bracket has a bolt hole and a tang for location. The tang location hole is covered by the tank bracket. The tang needs to be flattened. A few "taps" with an engineers hammer against the tang on a solid surface flattens it nicely!
Further, your ability to position the revised exhaust as far to the LHS as possible to avoid the tank, is limited by the position of the exhaust hanger and the diameter of the exhaust extension. It's a close fit with minimal distance to the corner of the tank. (A tweak to the relative orientation of the barb on the pipe if it could be moved maybe 10degrees clockwise when viewing it in position and standing behind the vehicle would enable the pipe to be moved away from the tank....but this is a manufacturing issue).
Q: Does the GrenX version mention any need to wrap insulation to the pipe or put "peel and stick" type insulation matting on the flat surfaces of the tank closest to the exhaust? Certainly the original BD instructions make no mention of this though a couple of members may have added it. I haven't as yet . was wondering if it's necessary...
Hi Denis. Great job. I have just ordered the BD tank and fitting. I thought of fitting myself but thought the exhaust had to be welded in situ to complete the job. I could only find the LRA tank instructions and indicate fully welded. Fitting charge was quoted at $870. Will be great to see some progress pics and finished job. I will instruct them to use a supplied Deutsch DTP plug on the driver side footwell instead of the power source as described in the BD instructions. Just got to split the power source as already run extra USB chargers from DS footwell.

Good Luck

Terry
 
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