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Diff locks.

AWo

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Why can't you lock the front without the rear? Not an Eaton requirement.
A.f.a.i.k. that is the same wit the MB G-Wagon...maybe that is because the people involved in the development had a close relationship with the G-Wagon.

AWo
 

AWo

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W460: Definitely mechanic. With pull rods which operated the linkage (or bowdens?) But definitely pull rods in the middle console. It took a mans arm to operate them.
For the axle differentials? Oh, I didn't know that, yet. Interesting. Thanks for clarification.

AWo
 

Eric

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A.f.a.i.k. that is the same wit the MB G-Wagon...maybe that is because the people involved in the development had a close relationship with the G-Wagon.

AWo
Isn't it done that way because using the front dif locks impacts on steering ability and is considered ( by MB and IA) as a means of last resource
 
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emax

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I assume you mean someone who identified as a man's arm.
Is my wording unusual? Language issue?

I like to learn ... ;-)

(have corrected "mans" to "man's" though ...)
 

Fab

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Its the same on my unimog. Its a 4 position dial switch, off, centre, +rear, +front.
And on the Steyr 12m18 I can lock what I like, when I like.
But I thought this forum is about the Grenadier?
 

DCPU

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It's positive confirmation that it can be done, so that's highly relevant to any discussion around the Grenadier, how things are done and any query whether they could have done it differently or not.
 

TD5-90

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Excellent stuff, thanks for sharing!

So, if I interpret the schematics correctly it would be _so_ easy to get rid of that (F)Artificial Intelligence between the diff lock buttons and the E-Locker 4 coils: Just connect the coil to battery voltage by a relay. Then the 140ms are very realistic.

I bet they don't have a physical sensor to determine the diff locks are disengaged after turn off! Rather, it's likely that some overly clever "algorithm" tries to sense different wheel rpm, and triple checks before the warning lights go out. But I may be proven wrong...
 

Tom D

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I thought that too, Might be harder to get the warning lights to come on, as they are probably part of the brain too. They could be mounted on a board too. Still anything’s possible..
 

DCPU

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Anyone looked at how the electric actuation cables run into the top housing of the rear differential?

Looking at mine, it looks like the cable is pulled a little and the top grommet has some strain on it forcing it sideways? the concern being it may not be as watertight as it is supposed to be...

It's either got to come up straight; or even better would have been a right angled connector, with some rudimentary guard in front:

WP_20230605_046 - Copy.jpg
WP_20230605_048 - Copy.jpg
 

ECrider

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Anyone looked at how the electric actuation cables run into the top housing of the rear differential?

Looking at mine, it looks like the cable is pulled a little and the top grommet has some strain on it forcing it sideways? the concern being it may not be as watertight as it is supposed to be...

It's either got to come up straight; or even better would have been a right angled connector, with some rudimentary guard in front:

View attachment 7814948View attachment 7814949
That doesn't look ideal. I would look to clean and apply some sealant to be on the safe side. Not possible to tell if second seal below but I would rather err on the side of caution.
 

DCPU

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I think I might consider that on an older vehicle but this just looks wrong to me, so firstly I'm keen to see if everyone else's looks the same or if someone has it fitted/looking different. Ultimately, it's Ineos's to fix at the moment.

Here's the view from the opposite side:
WP_20230605_084.jpg


I don't know if there's any adjustment in either of the brackets, or if there's a way to assemble the bits and fit it differently?
 

Wayneos

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Anyone looked at how the electric actuation cables run into the top housing of the rear differential?

Looking at mine, it looks like the cable is pulled a little and the top grommet has some strain on it forcing it sideways? the concern being it may not be as watertight as it is supposed to be...

It's either got to come up straight; or even better would have been a right angled connector, with some rudimentary guard in front:

View attachment 7814948View attachment 7814949
One F*CKING inch is all they needed.

Is this an Eaton thing or IA I wonder?
 

DCPU

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It looks different enough to the stuff in the Eaton Owner's Manual to be bespoke for Ineos.
 

DCPU

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I emailed Eaton Korea for info on the Grenadier ELocker and got two responses:

View attachment 7814158

I then asked him:
View attachment 7814159

To which he replied:
View attachment 7814160
And a less positive reply received yesterday from Ineos:
Screenshot_20230607_071958.jpg


I'll forgive them what could be a simple typo on the name of the axle manufacturer but for the technical department to state that they only "believe" it does lock with sliding pins gets an eyebrow or two raised. 😳
 

globalgregors

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And a less positive reply received yesterday from Ineos:
View attachment 7815189

I'll forgive them what could be a simple typo on the name of the axle manufacturer but for the technical department to state that they only "believe" it does lock with sliding pins gets an eyebrow or two raised. 😳
Yes, one trusts/hopes/prays that ’belief’ dwells in Customer Service rather than Engineering, Finance or Production.
 

DCPU

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So I had a mare of an evening last night playing with the axle diff locks - or rather only the rear one, as the front one could not be tested because the rear one would not lock!

Selected low range, centre diff locked OK, pressed rear locker button. Button flashes, I drive forward but no confirmation that it has locked in the centre screen - you can just make out the rear diff has two quarter circles that rotate to show it's in the process of engaging. The telltale light was flashing at the same time:
IMG_20230624_194954561_HDR.jpg

IMG_20230624_195328731_HDR.jpg


As an aside why does the centre screen show the front diff symbol when it's the rear diff being locked?

No matter what I did I could get the diff to lock; and then I could get rid of the flashing lights on the telltale screen or the the overhead panel. In the photo above the centre diff lock has been disengaged which should automatically disengage the two axles locks, but my light just kept flashing.

I switched off the engine and killed the centre console and telltale lights, but still the overhead panel flashed. I locked the car, and still it flashed. I also noted that the symbols on the buttons don't seem to match the word above, but then it's sort of ambiguous on the panel where the front and rear of the vehicle are?
IMG_20230624_195807272.jpg


I got back in and drove around weaving from side to side like a touring car driver trying to warm the tyres, still it flashed. I had to drive in a full lock circle for the flashing to stop.
 
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