CTEK SMARTPASS 120S and 250SE DC to DC charger basic features and install information

[Karearea]

Ok …
Another question ….
Is there a foldable or easily moved solar blanket system on the market now that has in built voltage regulator or MPPT system that could be attached to the jump start terminals on a dual battery vehicle fitted only with factory smartpass 120?
Or is this approach better suited to a direct connection to the aux battery?
I’m trying to be as simple as possible but retain the flexibility (quite literally) of a moveable blanket panel
I guess I’m trying to see what others might have done to “improve” the system they have already installed instead of just adopting an existing solution as detailed here and elsewhere
Cheers all

 

[globalgregors]

Ok …
Another question ….
Is there a foldable or easily moved solar blanket system on the market now that has in built voltage regulator or MPPT system that could be attached to the jump start terminals on a dual battery vehicle fitted only with factory smartpass 120?
Or is this approach better suited to a direct connection to the aux battery?
I’m trying to be as simple as possible but retain the flexibility (quite literally) of a moveable blanket panel
I guess I’m trying to see what others might have done to “improve” the system they have already installed instead of just adopting an existing solution as detailed here and elsewhere
Cheers all

160W Monocrystalline Folding Solar Blanket Kit

160W Solar Blanket Kit from REDARC features everything you need for camp charging.

www.redarcelectronics.com

We have the 240W, easiest to connect direct to the aux battery.

 

[TheDocAUS]

Ok …
Another question ….
Is there a foldable or easily moved solar blanket system on the market now that has in built voltage regulator or MPPT system that could be attached to the jump start terminals on a dual battery vehicle fitted only with factory smartpass 120?
Or is this approach better suited to a direct connection to the aux battery?
I’m trying to be as simple as possible but retain the flexibility (quite literally) of a moveable blanket panel
I guess I’m trying to see what others might have done to “improve” the system they have already installed instead of just adopting an existing solution as detailed here and elsewhere
Cheers all

Hardkorr make some options that may suit your needs here. Some of the choices have MPPT regulators and crocodile clips.

 

[Logsplitter]

Ok …
Another question ….
Is there a foldable or easily moved solar blanket system on the market now that has in built voltage regulator or MPPT system that could be attached to the jump start terminals on a dual battery vehicle fitted only with factory smartpass 120?
Or is this approach better suited to a direct connection to the aux battery?
I’m trying to be as simple as possible but retain the flexibility (quite literally) of a moveable blanket panel
I guess I’m trying to see what others might have done to “improve” the system they have already installed instead of just adopting an existing solution as detailed here and elsewhere
Cheers all

I have two 100w suitcase style solar panels with inbuilt mppt controllers and I connect these to the jump start terminal under the bonnet. A bit bulkier than the blanket style solar panels but very tough, durable and efficient.

Photonic Universe 100W Lightweight Folding Solar Charging Kit With MPPT Controller

100W lightweight portable, folding solar panel kit for 12V systems with high-quality solar cells & MPPT controller. For leisure applications.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

 

[NoAge Hunter]

I have two 100w suitcase style solar panels with inbuilt mppt controllers and I connect these to the jump start terminal under the bonnet. A bit bulkier than the blanket style solar panels but very tough, durable and efficient.

Photonic Universe 100W Lightweight Folding Solar Charging Kit With MPPT Controller

100W lightweight portable, folding solar panel kit for 12V systems with high-quality solar cells & MPPT controller. For leisure applications.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

I bought a solar blanket (130 Watt) and will use it exactly in the same way as you by installing it atvthe jump start controllers. Just to compensate the „drain“. I guess that is the easieat way. Hope that will work……will report after installation.
Logsplitter, do you have a system installed to the two batteries to check how much of the power is „delivered“ to the batteries?

 

[Logsplitter]

I bought a solar blanket (130 Watt) and will use it exactly in the same way as you by installing it atvthe jump start controllers. Just to compensate the „drain“. I guess that is the easieat way. Hope that will work……will report after installation.
Logsplitter, do you have a system installed to the two batteries to check how much of the power is „delivered“ to the batteries?

No system installed to check batterries. All very basic at the moment . Everything worked as planned on my travels. Fridge on 24/7 used solar panels off grid and Victron 30a bluesmart charger when in powered campsites.

 

[Rok_Dr]

Ok …
Another question ….
Is there a foldable or easily moved solar blanket system on the market now that has in built voltage regulator or MPPT system that could be attached to the jump start terminals on a dual battery vehicle fitted only with factory smartpass 120?
Or is this approach better suited to a direct connection to the aux battery?
I’m trying to be as simple as possible but retain the flexibility (quite literally) of a moveable blanket panel
I guess I’m trying to see what others might have done to “improve” the system they have already installed instead of just adopting an existing solution as detailed here and elsewhere
Cheers all

There certainly is. I've connected my solar panels to the jump start terminals to charge the vehicle. In my case my panels didn't come with a regulator so i bought one to run the panels through. https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/henrys-blog.12414322/post-1333263684.

Cheers
Steve

 

[Znarfgh]

I was reading the Smartpass instructions again and found this CTek issued schematic of installation. It states that in the case of a smart alternator the red cable should be connected to an ignition feed - this is not the case in my Grenadier and the red wire simply has some shrink wrap over the end of the wire.

Usually, this would mean that when the smart alternator senses that the starter battery is fully charged it will stop producing current and (potentially) the second battery would not receive any current (charge). I had this in my hybrid camper recently where the DC-DC charger did not sense any current from the vehicle alternator and would stop charging the camper batteries. I remedied this by installing an alternator sensing relay which basically tricks the DC-DC charger into thinking the alternator is supplying current even when it's not and my problem was solved.

So, in theory, the second battery will only be charged when the alternator is running because the starter battery is not fully charged. Although this is probably academic as there are no loads on the second battery it does make me wonder.

Anyone have any idea why the red cable is not connected to an ignition source in the Grenadier.

 

[Rok_Dr]

I was reading the Smartpass instructions again and found this CTek issued schematic of installation. It states that in the case of a smart alternator the red cable should be connected to an ignition feed - this is not the case in my Grenadier and the red wire simply has some shrink wrap over the end of the wire.

Usually, this would mean that when the smart alternator senses that the starter battery is fully charged it will stop producing current and (potentially) the second battery would not receive any current (charge). I had this in my hybrid camper recently where the DC-DC charger did not sense any current from the vehicle alternator and would stop charging the camper batteries. I remedied this by installing an alternator sensing relay which basically tricks the DC-DC charger into thinking the alternator is supplying current even when it's not and my problem was solved.

So, in theory, the second battery will only be charged when the alternator is running because the starter battery is not fully charged. Although this is probably academic as there are no loads on the second battery it does make me wonder.

View attachment 7858600

Anyone have any idea why the red cable is not connected to an ignition source in the Grenadier.

Don't quote me but I think its because the grenadier has a basic SOC monitor on the main battery that does this job.... sort-of....

Cheers

Steve

 

[nuclearmonkey]

I was reading the Smartpass instructions again and found this CTek issued schematic of installation. It states that in the case of a smart alternator the red cable should be connected to an ignition feed - this is not the case in my Grenadier and the red wire simply has some shrink wrap over the end of the wire.

There was a recent thread (in French) where the guy was having issues getting a full charge of his main battery. IIRC, he hoodked up the red wire to ignition, and noticed much better charging of the main. I don’t remember if he monitored the second battery during this.

Never thought about the other way around on this, where the secondary battery has no way to ‘tell’ the system that it’s low and to keep charging

 

[Karearea]

Thanks everyone for their great suggestions and I now have many options
I’m still pondering the intelligence of this as installed two battery system especially with regard to the auxiliary battery…
When static with no alternator running but with a solar panel providing positive charge to the whole system via the jump start connections. Will this charge one or both batteries to full capacity over time and how does it do whatever it does in terms of its “control systems”. I’m talking about the basic as supplied two battery and Ctek 120 setup.
Just thinking out loud and picking others’ brains.
I’m awaiting my @Jean Mercier chinese spy battery monitors to be delivered, so can not do insitu observations yet

 

[TheDocAUS]

Thanks everyone for their great suggestions and I now have many options
I’m still pondering the intelligence of this as installed two battery system especially with regard to the auxiliary battery…
When static with no alternator running but with a solar panel providing positive charge to the whole system via the jump start connections. Will this charge one or both batteries to full capacity over time and how does it do whatever it does in terms of its “control systems”. I’m talking about the basic as supplied two battery and Ctek 120 setup.
Just thinking out loud and picking others’ brains.
I’m awaiting my @Jean Mercier chinese spy battery monitors to be delivered, so can not do insitu observations yet

It is likely the solar panels will charge both batteries, as both batteries are connected and will equalise. I can see this on my solar panel thread here.

I also have more graphs, not posted, which strongly suggest the equalisation is going both ways, but I need more time in the field to confirm this observation.

I have a CTEK120S and 250SE installed.

 

[Karearea]

It is likely the solar panels will charge both batteries, as both batteries are connected and will equalise. I can see this on my solar panel thread here.

I also have more graphs, not posted, which strongly suggest the equalisation is going both ways, but I need more time in the field to conform this observation.

I have a CTEK120S and 250SE installed.

Thanks Doc, helpful as always
Just thinking again…
I guess an advantage of having either the 250se or similar solar regulator/ charge manager fitted to the system will enable a panel or blanket to be directly plugged into a Deutsche plug on the roof area or somewhere inside the vehicle. Is this correct?
Cheers

 

[TheDocAUS]

Thanks Doc, helpful as always
Just thinking again…
I guess an advantage of having either the 250se or similar solar regulator/ charge manager fitted to the system will enable a panel or blanket to be directly plugged into a Deutsche plug on the roof area or somewhere inside the vehicle. Is this correct?
Cheers

Yes. But you could run an Anderson plug (or Deutsch DTP from the roof) direct to the main battery, and plug in the solar panel with a regulator and get something similar.

 

[Znarfgh]

There was a recent thread (in French) where the guy was having issues getting a full charge of his main battery. IIRC, he hoodked up the red wire to ignition, and noticed much better charging of the main. I don’t remember if he monitored the second battery during this.

Never thought about the other way around on this, where the secondary battery has no way to ‘tell’ the system that it’s low and to keep charging

Unless you have a load connected to the second battery it should not lose much charge other than through trickle charging the starter battery. The second battery has no other loads and is purely there to assist with starting when the main battery is too weak to start the vehicle. It has virtually no other function and is an extra 40kg of insurance that we are dragging around. It certainly is not the usual dual battery setup.

When the warranty expires I will deal with this extra weight and rejig the system to be a regular dual battery system. I'm also waiting (with bated breath) for some electrical diagrams which might shed more light on the system.

 

[Tom109]

Due to a large fleet my Grenadier has only seen occasional use. Although with regular use the past few days my dual battery system SoC has been 100%.

 

[das mo]

Hi.

Has someone used the Ecoflow 160 panel to charge the Gren via the Ctek 250?

I know few out there use the 220, but the extra 10cm both dimensions drive additional storage complexity with my setup.

Dont think the bifazial design of the 220 is important in my camp setup, so the 160 might be enough to keep both batteries charged enough for few days whilst running the fridge in the back…

Or maybe using 2 of the 110W ones as those fit beautifully into my build.

Thanks

Timo

 

[Karearea]

Hi.

Has someone used the Ecoflow 160 panel to charge the Gren via the Ctek 250?

I know few out there use the 220, but the extra 10cm both dimensions drive additional storage complexity with my setup.

Dont think the bifazial design of the 220 is important in my camp setup, so the 160 might be enough to keep both batteries charged enough for few days whilst running the fridge in the back…

Or maybe using 2 of the 110W ones as those fit beautifully into my build.

Thanks

Timo

I’m uncommitted at the moment but seriously thinking that two smaller ones will be better than a larger single panel.
I’m wondering if a NATO plug to Deutsche plug exists as a pre wired pigtail that I can plug a panel/MPPT (thanks @Logsplitter )combo into ?

 

[minidok]

Hi.

Has someone used the Ecoflow 160 panel to charge the Gren via the Ctek 250?

I know few out there use the 220, but the extra 10cm both dimensions drive additional storage complexity with my setup.

Dont think the bifazial design of the 220 is important in my camp setup, so the 160 might be enough to keep both batteries charged enough for few days whilst running the fridge in the back…

Or maybe using 2 of the 110W ones as those fit beautifully into my build.

Thanks

Timo

160W does work great for me, 8-10A current measured. It is already quite big and heavy, though.

 

[Jmccmick]

Just spent two weeks hunting, which was to be a test for the oem dual battery system and my own requirements. since i posted my build here, ive gone on to add an engel 40L fridge and a cheap 80w renogy solar panel. I wired 12awg solar cables (via a 20a fuse) to my roof rack through the external roof connections at the front right (pull the handle off, pop the electrical cover off and snake wires through the rubber gasket to reach on the inside by pulling off a couple interior push plugs from the ceiling, and sneak down the inside of the door seal to the battery compartment). For good mesure i put a renogy 500a shunt onto the secondary battery; my reasoning was that the electrons from the solar panel to the D250SE would be directed to the secondary battery, then trickle back to the primary battery via the smartpass when the secondary was fully charged. had both batteries on a trickle charger before leaving. The secondary never did better than 56% SOC according to the shunt. Odd but didnt think much of it. Out in the wild i would have primary battery SOC 70-80% by 530 AM most days (in the tents by 2100 most nights) which seems appropriate for the draw of the fridge and light use the night before. This is as per Ineos SOC monitor visible under the offroad headings. My renogy monitor showed a gradual decline in SOC of secondary battery, so that by day 12 it was reading 16%, and never seemed to charge during the day despite the miles. the smartpass and d250se never registered a fault and seemed to indicate appropriate charging function according to their lights. I did notice on one hot sunny day that the primary battery had charged by 10% while we were out walking. Im not sure what to make of it all, but dont like that i cant puzzle out or monitor my batteries better. I think i will be switching to a more conventional system, and powering everthing off the secondary battery (or batteries if the black friday sales are good).