CTEK SMARTPASS 120S and 250SE DC to DC charger basic features and install information

[DCPU]

I believe it connects batteries under winch loads (correct me if I am wrong)

I think it does not do this as standard but possibly only in Smart assistance mode, and then only for 10 secs.

 

[DenisM]

After reading this thread and the Das mo's dead battery thread, I have decided that the factory dual battery setup does suit my use. It is still useful with a maintenance charge on start batteruly, and back up and I believe it connects batteries under winch loads (correct me if I am wrong)

In my fit out I now think I will install the 250se and the just leave it all alone.

Then go the typical (dual battery) route and add a third lithium battery connected to a Redarc BCDC and power a new rear fuse box and switch panel for all the accessories, fridges, lights, pumps, charging, camping stuff, etc.

Question. I'm thinking I would just run this BCDC straight off the starter battery as is typical. Can anyone see a problem with this? Is the output terminal on the smartpass an alternative and is there any benefits to this? I think it would just complicate it?

In a similar vein: ... I'm about to connect my LiFeP04 100AH battery box to the main battery with a Projecta DC-DC idc25L charger, including the smart alternator trigger wire, and run all the extraneous camping stuff from there, leaving SmartPass "out" terminal for a dashcam. My theory, to be tested in an upcoming Bris-Tassie trip, is that the smart alternator will be tripped into action by the Projecta charger for the Li battery and this will be of benefit also to the existing SmartPass120s without the need to spend anothe $400 on a Ctek 250SE...

 

[K1LL3M]

I think it does not do this as standard but possibly only in Smart assistance mode, and then only for 10 secs.

Hmm. I had thought I spoke about or read that it did, or maybe was going to, do this. Basically flipping to 500amp switch to energise the winch would also trigger a relay to connect the 2 batteries.

 

[Wilaspira]

Is anybody aware of another firm (ie other than Black Sheep) that makes a mounting bracket for the 120 Smartpass and the 250SE? Has anyone on the forum made a template? Cheers

 

[Logsplitter]

Is anybody aware of another firm (ie other than Black Sheep) that makes a mounting bracket for the 120 Smartpass and the 250SE? Has anyone on the forum made a template? Cheers

Bell Auto Services posted a template on another thread. I’ll add again here.

 

[das mo]

Hi all.

250SE arrived. CTEK shipped me 2 connector plates.

Plan to use the BAS template to mill a wooden base plate. Depending on how that goes, I might be able to mill few more, if someone needs one.

Still feel my Grenadier power supply adventure will last mich mich longer with still losing too much Volts whilst parking.

The 250 hopefully makes sure that I can at least park the car with close to 100% charge. The factory setup often provides me with a mit 70ies load status post trips and therefore dips into orange / red land after few days without moving.

Big thanks to @TheDocAUS !

Good luck to all of us!

 

[Logsplitter]

Hi all.

250SE arrived. CTEK shipped me 2 connector plates.

Plan to use the BAS template to mill a wooden base plate. Depending on how that goes, I might be able to mill few more, if someone needs one.

Still feel my Grenadier power supply adventure will last mich mich longer with still losing too much Volts whilst parking.

The 250 hopefully makes sure that I can at least park the car with close to 100% charge. The factory setup often provides me with a mit 70ies load status post trips and therefore dips into orange / red land after few days without moving.

Big thanks to @TheDocAUS !

Good luck to all of us!

Good idea. Are you using plywood?

 

[das mo]

Good idea. Are you using plywood?

usually using leftovers for that sort of thing.

 

[Wilaspira]

Bell Auto Services posted a template on another thread. I’ll add again here. View attachment 7823337View attachment 7823338View attachment 7823339View attachment 7823340View attachment 7823341View attachment 7823342

Many thanks

 

[DCPU]

Hmm. I had thought I spoke about or read that it did, or maybe was going to, do this.

If you can find that source please post it.

Basically flipping to 500amp switch to energise the winch would also trigger a relay to connect the 2 batteries.

I've not seen anything in the vehicle that would allow that bearing in mind the batteries are only connected via the Smartpass and that has a 300A fuse on either end.

 

[DCPU]

Is anybody aware of another firm (ie other than Black Sheep) that makes a mounting bracket for the 120 Smartpass and the 250SE? Has anyone on the forum made a template? Cheers

I'm part way through an install using an early Pete Bell plate:

Thread 'Bell Auto Services (BAS) CTEK D250SE charger bracket' https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/bell-auto-services-bas-ctek-d250se-charger-bracket.12412471/

 

[DCPU]

Warning: 2 seat owners there is an issue with fitting the Black Sheep Bracket because the existing mounting bracket is wider than the one in the 5 seater model.

Is there any evidence of this as a general statement?

Perhaps BS measured against an early version bracket and some changes were made, or vice versa and @Tomdoc has an early version; but my 5 seat mounting bracket looks identical to Tomdoc's.

 

[Trialmaster]

Very useful page here on the CTEK site: https://www.ctek.com/au/customer-guides/dc-dc-support#d250sdualandsmartpass

 

[Kruegerruda]

Sorry for asking, is our alternator smart or not...

 

[MarkH]

Sorry for asking, is our alternator smart or not...

Yes.

 

[Shorty]

Close to receiving my Grenny and on the fence as to whether I need to order the 250SE (and busbars and mounting bracket) or not. I have ordered the auxiliary battery and high load switch panel from the factory, yet am still unclear on exactly how it all works in practice.

My use case is to run a Waeco (Dometic) 50L fridge on a fully charged twin battery system for 24-48 hours, without compromising ability to start the car. I want it to run with the ignition off, and believe I can control this via the overhead switch panel without any modifications. Is this accurate? Would adding a 250SE have any impact on my ability to do what I've just described?

I understand that if I want to charge via solar panels the 250SE is needed. But if I'm not doing this are there any additional advantages? I do like to use my CTEK MSX 5.0 battery charger to give the car batteries a good charge every now and then, but assume I can do this also without the 250SE.

Look forward to any advice and thank you to all the contributors on this thread! It's been very helpful.

 

[das mo]

Close to receiving my Grenny and on the fence as to whether I need to order the 250SE (and busbars and mounting bracket) or not. I have ordered the auxiliary battery and high load switch panel from the factory, yet am still unclear on exactly how it all works in practice.

My use case is to run a Waeco (Dometic) 50L fridge on a fully charged twin battery system for 24-48 hours, without compromising ability to start the car. I want it to run with the ignition off, and believe I can control this via the overhead switch panel without any modifications. Is this accurate? Would adding a 250SE have any impact on my ability to do what I've just described?

I understand that if I want to charge via solar panels the 250SE is needed. But if I'm not doing this are there any additional advantages? I do like to use my CTEK MSX 5.0 battery charger to give the car batteries a good charge every now and then, but assume I can do this also without the 250SE.

Look forward to any advice and thank you to all the contributors on this thread! It's been very helpful.

https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/battery-issue-car-dead-in-the-middle-of-the-woods.12412749/

 

[DenisM]

Close to receiving my Grenny and on the fence as to whether I need to order the 250SE (and busbars and mounting bracket) or not. I have ordered the auxiliary battery and high load switch panel from the factory, yet am still unclear on exactly how it all works in practice.

My use case is to run a Waeco (Dometic) 50L fridge on a fully charged twin battery system for 24-48 hours, without compromising ability to start the car. I want it to run with the ignition off, and believe I can control this via the overhead switch panel without any modifications. Is this accurate? Would adding a 250SE have any impact on my ability to do what I've just described?

I understand that if I want to charge via solar panels the 250SE is needed. But if I'm not doing this are there any additional advantages? I do like to use my CTEK MSX 5.0 battery charger to give the car batteries a good charge every now and then, but assume I can do this also without the 250SE.

Look forward to any advice and thank you to all the contributors on this thread! It's been very helpful.

In the thread referred by @das mo : https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/battery-issue-car-dead-in-the-middle-of-the-woods.12412749/ there's an instructive post at #93 by @Highwayman where he used the cargo area (320W) outlet for his Dometic 35L fridge.

 

[TheDocAUS]

I have reached the maximum word limit in my first post, so I cannot add any more information there when it becomes available.

I will be installing the CTEK250SE but some important decisions and work l will leave to my auto electrician. I will instal the two UHFs, install Deutsch plugs to the wires ends as part of the aux power option, add the camping lights and Anderson plugs to the rear (for the trailer) and inside the car (fridge). I think I will also fit the cable from the solar panel on the roof rack.

The auto electrician will handle the Redarc Tow Pro, the ARB compressor, any work on the Euro plug and the precise wiring of the two units together (I expect we will follow the CTEK manual but they will make the final call).

 

[Shorty]

In the thread referred by @das mo : https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/battery-issue-car-dead-in-the-middle-of-the-woods.12412749/ there's an instructive post at #93 by @Highwayman where he used the cargo area (320W) outlet for his Dometic 35L fridge.

#131 also an informative post. Thanks for the link.