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CTEK SMARTPASS 120S and 250SE DC to DC charger basic features and install information

DenisM

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I have reached the maximum word limit in my first post, so I cannot add any more information there when it becomes available.
On some forums (fora?) a significant collection of knowledge is termed a "sticky" which sits at the top of the relevant subject -specific posts and can be added to as knowledge expands. You've done a fab. job on this @TheDocAUS (y)...perhaps Stu can weave his magic to put the collective material in one place where @TheDocAUS can edit/amend for the benefit of all.
Stu...are you receiving?:unsure::D
 

TheDocAUS

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I have only hit the word limit once, as the other topics ,like fuses, had multiple posts. Here I tried to get most of the information into one post. In future I might split it into two.
 
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Close to receiving my Grenny and on the fence as to whether I need to order the 250SE (and busbars and mounting bracket) or not. I have ordered the auxiliary battery and high load switch panel from the factory, yet am still unclear on exactly how it all works in practice.

My use case is to run a Waeco (Dometic) 50L fridge on a fully charged twin battery system for 24-48 hours, without compromising ability to start the car. I want it to run with the ignition off, and believe I can control this via the overhead switch panel without any modifications. Is this accurate? Would adding a 250SE have any impact on my ability to do what I've just described?

I understand that if I want to charge via solar panels the 250SE is needed. But if I'm not doing this are there any additional advantages? I do like to use my CTEK MSX 5.0 battery charger to give the car batteries a good charge every now and then, but assume I can do this also without the 250SE.

Look forward to any advice and thank you to all the contributors on this thread! It's been very helpful.
Lots of info in the thread linked above by das mo. You'll need the 250SE if running a fridge to charge the service battery quicker, properly & fully while on the move. The Smartpass on its own does a poor job of it. It's meant for larger battery banks as in RVs but Ineos have used it here because it's a convenient solution for a dual battery setup. It isolates the batteries, connects them for alternator charging, can maintain the starter using the service battery, provides a load terminal for consumers, has a Start Assist function and allows for 250SE integration.

You can either run the fridge from the service battery direct, (fridge has a cutout built-in at 10.5V), or from the Smartpass load terminal with 11.5V cutout. No need to touch any overhead switches. Fridge will run 24/7, with ignition on or off. The starter battery is protected/isolated by the Smartpass from the fridge load. Don't use the 12V socket in the boot to run the fridge as it draws power from the starter battery.
Yes you can still use the Ctek 5A charger.
 
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Tomdoc

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Is there any evidence of this as a general statement?

Perhaps BS measured against an early version bracket and some changes were made, or vice versa and @Tomdoc has an early version; but my 5 seat mounting bracket looks identical to Tomdoc's.
Although perhaps the plate fits as intended on any other (?5 seat) version, the existing mounting plate in my IG UW 2 seater has side protrusions that mean that you cannot slide the BS plate under the 120 as intended. Now, what I may be able to do is use the plate the other way around with the flat portion under the 120 and the folded bit under the 250. I haven't tried this yet. It is not BS fault - I think the 2 seat has a different set-up - also the lid of the battery compartment is very close to the CTEKs so beware potentially lifting the units by using a thick plate - there is a danger of the flat metal lid fouling on the terminals.
 

DCPU

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Although perhaps the plate fits as intended on any other (?5 seat) version, the existing mounting plate in my IG UW 2 seater has side protrusions that mean that you cannot slide the BS plate under the 120 as intended.
Can you take the mounting bracket out and photograph it from a couple of angles.

I'll do the same (tomorrow) and we can see if there's any difference.

Edit:
Or this:
Post in thread 'Black Sheep Ctek D250 charger bracket' https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/black-sheep-ctek-d250-charger-bracket.12411263/post-1333206240
 
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Wilaspira

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Hi installation of a 250SE and making the correct electrical/wiring connections so that it is most effectively usable post installation is outside my capabilities and comfort zone. Sorry the question is so geographically specific, but can anyone recommend an auto electrician operating near Alton, Hampshire UK that could do this work (in a perfect world someone who has already done the installation on a Grenadier and knows CTEK products). Cheers
 

Tomdoc

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Can you take the mounting bracket out and photograph it from a couple of angles.

I'll do the same (tomorrow) and we can see if there's any difference.

Edit:
Or this:
Post in thread 'Black Sheep Ctek D250 charger bracket' https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/black-sheep-ctek-d250-charger-bracket.12411263/post-1333206240

1692030396515.png

1692030238513.jpeg


Didn't want to take it out completely - but here are some better pictures.


I have successfully installed the 250SE using the BS mount the "wrong" way round - flat surface under the 120. I put nice rubber feet on the folded over bits and it's fine. One suggestion was to use the folded end of the mount at the 120 side but this would raise the 120 unit by about 1cm - the flat lid of the battery box is very close to that level and might foul the terminals.

Seems good and all working well.

1692031092347.jpeg
 
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AnD3rew

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I have reached the maximum word limit in my first post, so I cannot add any more information there when it becomes available.

I will be installing the CTEK250SE but some important decisions and work l will leave to my auto electrician. I will instal the two UHFs, install Deutsch plugs to the wires ends as part of the aux power option, add the camping lights and Anderson plugs to the rear (for the trailer) and inside the car (fridge). I think I will also fit the cable from the solar panel on the roof rack.

The auto electrician will handle the Redarc Tow Pro, the ARB compressor, any work on the Euro plug and the precise wiring of the two units together (I expect we will follow the CTEK manual but they will make the final call).
Hi Michael, I think you are in Sydney, do you have an autoelectrician you use and trust that you would recommend?
 

TheDocAUS

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Hi Michael, I think you are in Sydney, do you have an autoelectrician you use and trust that you would recommend?
On the INEOS I was going to get ORS to fit the drawers and water tank and also use their in house auto electrician. They do quality work, but I have not used the auto electrician part before. But ORS are old school quality and service.

ORS have already indicated to me they will work on the INEOS, they already have 5 seater measurements (mine is a 2 seater), but they do custom work all the time.

ORS did the drawers, water tank and bed extension in the Nissan Patrol and it lasted 11 hard years. Drawers were not too bad after the accident either!
 
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CBN

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On the INEOS I was going to get ORS to fit the drawers and water tank and also use their in house auto electrician. They do quality work, but I have not used the auto electrician part before. But ORS are old school quality and service.

ORS have already indicated to me they will work on the INEOS, they already have 5 seater measurements (mine is a 2 seater), but they do custom work all the time.

ORS did the drawers, water tank and bed extension in the Nissan Patrol and it lasted 11 hard years. Drawers were not to bad after the accident either!
I was down at ORS yesterday getting drawers measured up ;)
 

AnD3rew

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On the INEOS I was going to get ORS to fit the drawers and water tank and also use their in house auto electrician. They do quality work, but I have not used the auto electrician part before. But ORS are old school quality and service.
Thanks for that. A bit of a hike for me but good to get your recommendation
 

AnD3rew

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So I emailed customer service with this question
To:customerservice@ineosgrenadier.com
Subject: Technical question on Auxiliary battery
ATTENTION: This is an External message. Be cautious.

Hi there

The Smartpass battery system for the auxiliaries battery is designed to be connected to an ignition wire in order to properly manage the smart alternator and ensure proper charging of the auxiliary battery. This has not been connected on the Grenadier, I am not sure why. But is there any reason why I shouldn’t connect that wire?

And got this somewhat unsatisfactory response which avoids the question of “is there any reason I shouldn’t connect this?”
Debating whether I should ask again.

IMG_4517.jpeg
 

Michael H.

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Thanks for that. A bit of a hike for me but good to get your recommendation

Hi @AnD3rew. I’m getting my rear fit-out done at Project Overlander, which is just down the road from ORS. If you’re interested in the details, I can message you to avoid hijacking this thread any more than we have to. 🙂
 

TheDocAUS

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Hi @AnD3rew. I’m getting my rear fit-out done at Project Overlander, which is just down the road from ORS. If you’re interested in the details, I can message you to avoid hijacking this thread any more than we have to. 🙂
If you drive that far, visit both and then decide who is best for your needs.
 
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TheDocAUS

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So I emailed customer service with this question


And got this somewhat unsatisfactory response which avoids the question of “is there any reason I shouldn’t connect this?”
Debating whether I should ask again.

View attachment 7823553
I am going with what the auto electrician tells me. I suspect it will get connected.

Connecting the wire is intended to let the CTEK know a smart alternator is fitted to the car and have the charger function properly.
 

AnD3rew

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I am going with what the auto electrician tells me. I suspect it will get connected.

Connecting the wire is intended to let the CTEK know a smart alternator is fitted to the car and have the charger function properly.
I agree. I was going to connect it all up myself, but I have a few other bits I do want the sparky for so might just get them to do the lot.
 
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