CTEK SMARTPASS 120S and 250SE DC to DC charger basic features and install information

[Clark Kent]

My setup using the CTEK 120S mated to the 250SE is complete.

XHQ TOWING PACK IN DETAIL*
Expedition HQ package (the Gold Coast INEOS Dealer) replaced the 13 pin Euro plug with a 7/12 pin flat pin plug and 2 Anderson plugs (one for the caravan/trailer and one for the solar blanket). This is what the rear now looks like:

The XHQ package is not spliced into the INEOS electrics, but uses its own control box, shown here:

View attachment 7850474

The fuse labelled Anderson, bottom centre, is for the two Anderson plugs for the fridge running off the AUX battery (see more below). The small circuit breaker top right (just below the AUX Battery label) is for the REDARC TowPro and the large 50 amp circuit breaker, to the left, is for the XHQ Control Box.

In a 5 seater Grenadier the control box fits next to the CTEK 120S. The CTEK 250SE then fits on top of the XHQ control unit. There is not enough vertical room in the 2 seater for the CTEK 250SE to be mounted on top, so an alternate place was found, near the aux battery. The metal lid in the 2 seater leaves less room above the XHQ control unit for the CTEK 25OSE than the seats in the 5 seater model.

In my 2 seater the CTEK 250SE was mounted on a Black Sheep charger bracket I already had (the two solar Anderson plugs are attached the CTEK 250SE's solar inputs. The solar input LED is not on as no solar panel was attached when the photo was taken):

View attachment 7850475

In addition, Anderson plugs were installed into the side of the battery box and into the area near the jack. Here is the passenger side of the battery box, just below the lid hinge:

View attachment 7850476

The Anderson plug near the jack will have this plugged into it, which will be mounted next to the drawers (on the drawer side panel). I made these up and the third socket will be powered from the rear 12 volt socket.

Out of picture is the Anderson plug that will fit into the jack area Anderson plug.

*FYI: the work I had done included more work than just the standard XHQ Package No 2.

DRAWERS, WATER TANK, BED EXTENSION NEXT
The ORS drawers, water tank, bed extension and dual ARB air compressor get installed shortly after Easter. The double drawers will look similar to these drawers (sorry no INEOS image on the ORS website). Behind the drawers is the water tank and from their to the cargo carrier is the bed extension.
View attachment 7850480


My ORS water tank will have some custom work but will look something like this. The water nozzle accessible on passenger's side, gravity fed, but you can have a water pump.

View attachment 7850482

Hi @TheDocAUS
Looking good. Should be a great remote area setup once you've completed the build. Quite a bit of kit going onto your vehicle. How are your payload projections looking? I recall you said your towing weight/TBM was low despite the custom hitch you had made.

 

[TheDocAUS]

Hi @TheDocAUS
Looking good. Should be a great remote area setup once you've completed the build. Quite a bit of kit going onto your vehicle. How are your payload projections looking? I recall you said your towing weight/TBM was low despite the custom hitch you had made.

Not sure, I will do the weighing later - however, being careful all the way along not to add too much weight. For example, aluminum drawers not steel, be able to add and remove things from the roof rack (not leave them on), updating my recovery gear to Dyneema rope, etc Also learning over time I do not need all the crap I once took.

Worse case I can get a 300kg GVM upgrade, which I hope to avoid. I can also use my offload trailer for long remote trips (so water, jerry cans and gear go into it).

 

[bakepl]

My setup using the CTEK 120S mated to the 250SE is complete.

XHQ TOWING PACK IN DETAIL*
Expedition HQ package (the Gold Coast INEOS Dealer) replaced the 13 pin Euro plug with a 7/12 pin flat pin plug and 2 Anderson plugs (one for the caravan/trailer and one for the solar blanket). This is what the rear now looks like:

The XHQ package is not spliced into the INEOS electrics, but uses its own control box, shown here:

View attachment 7850474

The fuse labelled Anderson, bottom centre, is for the two Anderson plugs for the fridge running off the AUX battery (see more below). The small circuit breaker top right (just below the AUX Battery label) is for the REDARC TowPro and the large 50 amp circuit breaker, to the left, is for the XHQ Control Box.

In a 5 seater Grenadier the control box fits next to the CTEK 120S. The CTEK 250SE then fits on top of the XHQ control unit. There is not enough vertical room in the 2 seater for the CTEK 250SE to be mounted on top, so an alternate place was found, near the aux battery. The metal lid in the 2 seater leaves less room above the XHQ control unit for the CTEK 25OSE than the seats in the 5 seater model.

In my 2 seater the CTEK 250SE was mounted on a Black Sheep charger bracket I already had (the two solar Anderson plugs are attached the CTEK 250SE's solar inputs. The solar input LED is not on as no solar panel was attached when the photo was taken):

View attachment 7850475

In addition, Anderson plugs were installed into the side of the battery box and into the area near the jack. Here is the passenger side of the battery box, just below the lid hinge:

View attachment 7850476

The Anderson plug near the jack will have this plugged into it, which will be mounted next to the drawers (on the drawer side panel). I made these up and the third socket will be powered from the rear 12 volt socket.

Out of picture is the Anderson plug that will fit into the jack area Anderson plug.

*FYI: the work I had done included more work than just the standard XHQ Package No 2.

DRAWERS, WATER TANK, BED EXTENSION NEXT
The ORS drawers, water tank, bed extension and dual ARB air compressor get installed shortly after Easter. The double drawers will look similar to these drawers (sorry no INEOS image on the ORS website). Behind the drawers is the water tank and from their to the cargo carrier is the bed extension.
View attachment 7850480

My ORS water tank will have some custom work but will look something like this. The water nozzle accessible on passenger's side, gravity fed, but you can have a water pump.

View attachment 7850482

SLRV do nice work. Is the solenoid operated by an overhead switch or by ignition on?

 

[TheDocAUS]

SLRV do nice work. Is the solenoid operated by an overhead switch or by ignition on?

Pretty sure ignition on, because each time I start the car I can hear it click away for a split second. Plus XHQ did not say I had to turn a switch.

 

[bakepl]

Pretty sure ignition on, because each time I start the car I can hear it click away for a split second.

wired my solenoid (or rather victron smart battery connect) via an unused overhead switch, this way can use the main overhead power switch to power it up when vehicle is off.

 

[TheDocAUS]

wired my solenoid (or rather victron smart battery connect) via an unused overhead switch, this way can use the main overhead power switch to power it up when vehicle is off.

My Anderson plugs powering the fridge/accessories come directly off the aux battery, the fuse you see is just mounted on the XHQ bracket.

 

[bakepl]

My Anderson plugs powering the fridge/accessories come directly off the aux battery, the fuse you see is just mounted on the XHQ bracket.

cheers. Low volt disconnect of the Aux is via the smarts in the fridge?

 

[TheDocAUS]

cheers. Low volt disconnect of the Aux is via the smarts in the fridge?

Yes, built into my National Luna fridge. I manually control any other accessory, like camp lights, laptop, etc.

Remember the CTEK250SE will also disconnect the aux battery, to avoid flattening the main battery - not yet tested in the field I should add.

 

[nuclearmonkey]

Yes, built into my National Luna fridge. I manually control any other accessory, like camp lights, laptop, etc.

Remember the CTEK250SE will also disconnect the aux battery, to avoid flattening the main battery - not yet tested in the field I should add.

I was under the impression that the smartpass separated the batteries (all be it still allowing the aux to trickle charge the starter, but not the other way around). How does the 250 separate them?

 

[bakepl]

I was under the impression that the smartpass separated the batteries (all be it still allowing the aux to trickle charge the starter, but not the other way around). How does the 250 separate them?

Yes I don't believe the 250 will disconnect anything. By itself it works like a VSR. With the 120, it's the 120 that will disconnect consumer items from the Aux at low volt...however... seeing Ineos are removing that consumer function I suspect customers (like me) will be attaching consumer items direct to the Aux battery itself. Best then if the consumer item has low volt cutoff, like many 12v fridges or add another device like the Smart Battery Protect that is built for this feature and take all consumers off this device, that in some respects (but smarter) simulates the 'consumer out' of the Ctek.

 

[nuclearmonkey]

If using a smart battery protect, would you put it between the aux battery and the fuse box to have everything shut off before the aux is no longer able to jump the starter? And on that note, what would be the cutoff voltage to ensure it still has enough juice to jump?

 

[Logsplitter]

For what it’s worth. We’ve had days off grid in +40c heat with an ARB 47l fridge running constantly set at 0c and no problems whatsoever. We have the standard Grenadier dual battery system with just the smartpass. I use 2x 100w suitcase style solar panels with inbuilt mppt controllers and have been upto three days at a time without starting the vehicle and all fine. When we get to a camp with power I do charge the batteries on a regular basis with a Victron smart charger that is permanently installed in
the battery box.

 

[nuclearmonkey]

For what it’s worth. We’ve had days off grid in +40c heat with an ARB 47l fridge running constantly set at 0c and no problems whatsoever. We have the standard Grenadier dual battery system with just the smartpass. I use 2x 100w suitcase style solar panels with inbuilt mppt controllers and have been upto three days at a time without starting the vehicle and all fine. When we get to a camp with power I do charge the batteries on a regular basis with a Victron smart charger that is permanently installed in
the battery box.

Have you monitored a rough estimate of the amps you’re getting from the solar panels on a given day?

There’s definitely a decision to be made with the dual battery systems provided by Ineos… either keep everything run off the starter and just have the aux for jumping, or start moving some of the ‘camp draw’ over to the auxiliary and not trash the starter all the time (assuming no solar or not sufficient solar). I guess option C could be adding a lithium as a 3rd…

 

[TheDocAUS]

For what it’s worth. We’ve had days off grid in +40c heat with an ARB 47l fridge running constantly set at 0c and no problems whatsoever. We have the standard Grenadier dual battery system with just the smartpass. I use 2x 100w suitcase style solar panels with inbuilt mppt controllers and have been upto three days at a time without starting the vehicle and all fine. When we get to a camp with power I do charge the batteries on a regular basis with a Victron smart charger that is permanently installed in
the battery box.

Thanks that is what I was thinking, based on my previous remote experience. So even if there is no battery isolation I will be OK. My main draw is the fridge, no inverter, coffee machine or induction cook-top for me.

Plus the Grenadier, on my limited experience so far, can charge the batteries faster than my old car. The 160W solar panel, mounted on the roofrack, will help as well.

 

[bakepl]

If using a smart battery protect, would you put it between the aux battery and the fuse box to have everything shut off before the aux is no longer able to jump the starter? And on that note, what would be the cutoff voltage to ensure it still has enough juice to jump?

Considered the option to take all the accessories off from the starter battery and feed via the SBP/AUX battery as this is what I, like many I suspect are used to. At this stage decided to leave standard and see how I go travelling and it's fine. Running a fridge overnight is certainly no problem whatsoever with the Ineos setup although I wake up in the morn to find the Aux battery has higher volts than the Start battery. I also plug in a 160w flex panel if laid up for a while via the D250SE. (and have a lithium jump starter like many here just in case.)

 

[Logsplitter]

Have you monitored a rough estimate of the amps you’re getting from the solar panels on a given day?

There’s definitely a decision to be made with the dual battery systems provided by Ineos… either keep everything run off the starter and just have the aux for jumping, or start moving some of the ‘camp draw’ over to the auxiliary and not trash the starter all the time (assuming no solar or not sufficient solar). I guess option C could be adding a lithium as a 3rd…

I have no idea what power I am actually getting from the solar panels. But it does indicate by its flashing lights whether it’s bulk, absorption or float charge and I’ve noticed they have reached the float charge stage on various occasions even when extremely hot and fridge working overtime.

 

[TheDocAUS]

SOME CTEKs FAILING IN AUSTRALIA (NOT IN THE GRENADIER)
Just FYI.

I was talking to a mechanic yesterday about the CTEK 120S and the 250SE and showing him the Grenadier. He really liked the Grenadier. He mentioned some of his 4X4 mates have had the CTEKs fail and be replaced with Redarc systems. Others have had no issues at all with their CTEKs. He was not sure why the CTEKs failed. However, the Redarcs are sealed better against moisture, dust and corrugations, than the CTEKs (which is less relevant to the Grenadier with the units well protected under the seat or in the battery box for the 2 seaters).

 

[Ex-defender driver]

Ive used a CTEK 250 in my land drover defender for 8 years.. No problems.

 

[rovie]

SOME CTEKs FAILING IN AUSTRALIA (NOT IN THE GRENADIER)
Just FYI.

I was talking to a mechanic yesterday about the CTEK 120S and the 250SE and showing him the Grenadier. He really liked the Grenadier. He mentioned some of his 4X4 mates have had the CTEKs fail and be replaced with Redarc systems. Others have had no issues at all with their CTEKs. He was not sure why the CTEKs failed. However, the Redarcs are sealed better against moisture and dust, than the CTEKs (which is less relevant to the Grenadier with the units well protected under the seat or in the battery box for the 2 seaters).

I have been using 4 CTEK MXS 5.0 in my Land Rovers for years and have also been using them permanently in the Grenadier for a year now. Never had a problem.

 

[Ragman]

I just finished installing the D250SE and a couple of odd things. First connected via CTEK busbars, grounded - terminal to battery and did not hook up the charge voltage (black) nor red ignition trigger as battery is wet and it is still not clear to me the fate of the red wire (smart alternator).

Once complete I did get some warning lights as others have experienced and after short drive and a turn off/restart cycle all went out except the lower right hand exclamation sign inside the triangle-nothing popping up on the center screen. One other thing I noticed is that the Offroad screen now shows my battery charge at 100% which I have never seen before and doesn't sound right to me.

Has anyone else experienced this set of symptoms after installing or have any insight into what I might be looking at? Otherwise everything seems to be fine and I am not noticing anything when driving it.

Thanks