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CTEK SMARTPASS 120S and 250SE DC to DC charger basic features and install information

Stu_Barnes

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And by the way, I want to see @DCPU back on the forum, I hope he will, I hope he is on holidays, and that he is in good health... because that could also be a reason to dissappear.

His contribution is/was phenomenal 👏
I’ve reached out as well @Jean Mercier I also had a look at the forum admin backend and everything is fine (if there are enough email bounces accounts register as abandoned)
He did drop by last Monday though, as you can see if you hover over his avatar. Hopefully he’s in good health and enjoying driving his Grenadier
 

Ragman

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For those of you interested in installing the 250 SE in the US I just saw that Amazon has it on the site for $282 saying it is discounted as an overstock.
 

YIPPE

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Does anyone have a photo of the smartpass brackets from ineos to hold it in place over the handbrake cables. I didn't opt dual battery but now installing the ctek 250se by itself. My aux AGM battery is purely for fridge and a few little USB recharges. So figure the 250se by itself will be fine for charging.
Just looking how to mount it is all.

TIA
 

Clark Kent

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Does anyone have a photo of the smartpass brackets from ineos to hold it in place over the handbrake cables. I didn't opt dual battery but now installing the ctek 250se by itself. My aux AGM battery is purely for fridge and a few little USB recharges. So figure the 250se by itself will be fine for charging.
Just looking how to mount it is all.

TIA
You're in luck @YIPPE Past member @DCPU had a passion for photographing everything he touched on his vehicle. See post with pics here. Scroll down to see all the pics you need.
 
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ADVAW8S

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You're in luck @YIPPE Past member @DCPU had a passion for photographing everything he touched on his vehicle. See post with pics here. Scroll down to see all the pics you need.
There is a CAD drawing of the bracket in here somewhere. You can have someone laser cut it for you
 

minidok

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My D250SE is installed after manual. but no led lights up neither when ignition is on. How do behave yours, the same? I have the impression, that mine is odd.
Currently no Solar Input connected, only Alternator Source on port A. But I would expect to see the lower left LED ("I") on.
 

minidok

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My D250SE is installed after manual. but no led lights up neither when ignition is on. How do behave yours, the same? I have the impression, that mine is odd.
Currently no Solar Input connected, only Alternator Source on port A. But I would expect to see the lower left LED ("I") on.
Return to sender.... solar input does show a closed circuit.
 

NoAge Hunter

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About the CTEK 120S and the 250SE
The CTEK SMARTPASS 120S is the charger installed in the INEOS Grenadier if you choose the aux power option. The full CTEK Manual can be downloaded here. It has lots of information about installation.

You can buy and install a CTEK 250SE, which is a DC to DC charger which mates with the CTEK 120S. The combination has 140 amps of charging power and a solar input.

The CTEK SMARTPASS 120S is the Lithium version (plus other chemistries) installed on the INEOS. The CTEK SMARTPASS 120 (no S) is the non-lithium version. Add S for Lithium.

The CTEK 250SE is the Lithium version (plus other chemistries) of the DC to DC charger, the non-Lithium version being the 250SA. Yep, only the last letter changes A or E.

The CTEK 250SE also gives you a solar input.

Important warnings from the CTEK Manual
  1. The D250SE and 120S are not protected against reversed polarity. Disconnect the battery terminal posts before installation.
  2. The D250SE and 120S are not spark-free. Ensure good ventilation.
  3. Modified cabling is required for any auxiliary Lithium battery.
  4. The combined height of lugs, on a given terminal post, should not exceed 6 mm (see Figure 5 on page 6 of the Manual). Tip: you need to be careful how many cables you install on any terminal post, to ensure their combined thickness does not exceed 6mm or the nut will not properly tighten on the terminal post (see Figure 5 on page 6 of the CTEK Manual). I have two large lugs measuring 35-8 and their combined thickness is 6mm. That is a hefty lug, so smaller lugs will allow more cables. 35-8 means 35mm2 (or AWG2) wire size and 8mm hole size.

The INEOS Grenadier’s aux battery chemistry is EFB not lithium
The INEOS Grenadier’s aux battery is not lithium, but with the 120S and the 250SE you can install a Lithium battery later and not have to buy new chargers (you do need to make some minor wiring changes).

So the best combo, in terms of features and battery chemistry, is the 120S with the 250SE (although the image below shows the 120). The combination looks like this:

View attachment 7822390
View attachment 7822392

Dual mounting bracket
At present, only Black Sheep Innovations has a bracket for sale allowing you to mount the CTEK 120S and 250SE together in the INEOS' battery compartment. Other brackets are under development. Warning: at least one owner of a 2 seater version has reported an issue with fitting the Black Sheep Bracket, he managed to install the bracket by reversing it on his 2 seater.

Bell Auto Services has generously made these diagrams available of their dual mounting bracket for others to freely use.

The CTEK Manual says to secure the connector plates between the two units first. Then secure both units to the Dual Mounting Bracket (see page 6 of the CTEK Manual).

So, secure the connector plates and torque the nuts on the terminal post with a 5mm Allen Key to 8 Nm/71 lb-in of torque (see Figure 2 on page 6 of the CTEK Manual).

Then secure both units to the Dual Mounting Bracket using M4 or ST4.2 screws/bolts, in each of the four corners. Each screw/bolt is torqued to 2 Nm/18 lb-in (see Figure 1 on page 6 of the CTEK Manual). I would use bolts, not screws, to secure both units to the Dual Mounting Bracket.

Tip: once both units are fixed to the Dual Mounting Bracket and the bracket is installed into your INEOS, I would re-torque all the nuts and bolts.

Looking at the Figures below should clear up any misunderstanding.

View attachment 7822475

Connector plates (aka busbars, cables with lugs, etc.)
The connector plates are the two black plates (sometime grey) connecting the two units together in the above images.

The connector plates come in the retail packet of the CTEK 120S, but not the “retail box” that comes with the INEOS Grenadier. CTEK does not sell the connector plates as a separate item. You will need to make you own or buy a pre-made set - someone stuffed up there!

Page 5 of the CTEK Manual gives the requirements for the connector plates, basically a 4mm2 cable (or 12 AWG) and a lug with an M8 size hole, if they are mated next to each other.
View attachment 7822384

Making your own connector plates (or busbar)
I made some connector plates based on @bakepl measurements here. Here they are:
View attachment 7822385

My steps:
  1. I used tin plated copper lugs, metric size 10-8 (meaning 10mm2 wire size and 8mm hole size). The lug fits onto the CTEK 250SE terminal, as I checked;
  2. I used 8B&S wire cut to 7cm in length (with the lugs I used);
  3. I crimped the lugs onto the wire, remembering to have the clear shrink tube on the wire for both ends, before crimping the second lug on. After I crimped the second lug I heat treated the dual wall tubing to each end.
  4. I made it slightly bigger than 98mm (100mm), as the wires can flex and being too short is a problem but being a little longer is not.
  5. The length measures correctly, but I cannot be 100% sure until I mate the two units together on the bracket, and I need my car for that.
  6. I wrapped the red wire using black automotive tape, after taking the photo.
I made a test connector plate first, to work out what I would do wrong and then fix it for the next two.

Using both the CTEK 120S and the 250SE together
This following summerises additional key information from this CTEK instructional video. It is not a substitute for watching the video and reading the manual. It merely summerises key information to help an install.

Fuses
Two 300 amp fuses are needed (but one or both may already be installed on your INEOS).

One 300 amp between the Start Battery (aka main battery) and the CTEK 120S. I believe this is done via a battery fuse on one of the INEOS busbars, known as a MEGA range ZCASE® fuse.

A second 300 amp fuse between the CTEK 120S and the Service Battery (aka auxiliary battery). If you have selected the INEOS aux power pack INEOS uses an inline MEGA fuse in the Midi style (which are not MEGA range ZCASE fuses). I believe, but cannot be certain, this is the Littelfuse fuse holder used in the INEOS.

Warning: you must look at your car’s set up is before doing work, because set ups may vary between countries and models. Do not make assumptions! You may already have one or both fuses already installed.

Fuses used and cable length
Page 5 of the CTEK Manual lists the fuse ratings and cable requirements for your install (see extract above). Cable size can vary depending on the length of a cable run. What cables to use may vary between the CTEK 250SE and 120S. The CTEK supplied Table, extracted above, tells you both. So use it.

More fuse information
This thread has more detailed information on the fuses used in the INEOS.

Terminal screws/nuts on units
Use a 5mm Allen Key on the terminal screws (nuts) and tighten to 8 Nm/71 lb-in of torque (see Figure 2 on page 6 of the CTEK Manual). Tightening by hand is not good enough, as the connector plates and cables will come loose.

The unit itself can be secured using M4 or ST4.2 screws or bolts, in each of the four corners. The screw or bolt is torqued to 2 Nm/18 lb-in (see Figure 1 on page 6 of the CTEK Manual).

Solar panel for the CTEK 250SE
The CTEK 250SE charger is designed for unregulated solar panels:
  • between 50 and 300 watts;
  • with a maximum open circuit output value of 23 volts;
  • using a 6mm cable from the solar panel to the CTEK 250SE.
Use an M8 ring terminal/lug (I suggest a tin-plated copper lug) crimped to the solar panel cable and attach the cables to the solar input on the CTEK 250SE. Tighten terminal screws to 8 Nm/71 lb-in of torque.

Installing lithium batteries – cabling changes required
If you install an auxiliary Lithium battery consult the CTEK Manual because you need to make some minor cabling changes. See page 7 of the CTEK Manual. Note: you need to have the CTEK 120S and 250SE to install an auxiliary Lithium battery.

Additional resources
CTEK Support pages with Guides and Videos here.
Full CTEK Manual attached to post here.

u
View: https://youtu.be/kTRiqyzK9zA

View attachment 7822471
What a great explanation! Thank you!
Me - being not an wizzard if it comes to electrical installations- can easy follow that and finally (believe to) understand the 120 and 250 topic.
Thanks for sharing that!
 

Znarfgh

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My D250SE is installed after manual. but no led lights up neither when ignition is on. How do behave yours, the same? I have the impression, that mine is odd.
Currently no Solar Input connected, only Alternator Source on port A. But I would expect to see the lower left LED ("I") on.
Have you connected the smart alternator wire to an ignition source?

When you say "ïgnition is on" do you mean engine is running? The D250 SE will only work once the engine is running (ie. alternator is supplying power to the D250SE)
 

ADVAW8S

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Have you connected the smart alternator wire to an ignition source?

When you say "ïgnition is on" do you mean engine is running? The D250 SE will only work once the engine is running (ie. alternator is supplying power to the D250SE)
It's been agreed that you do not connect any if wires to alternator. The install should be done as if you do not have a smart alternator
 

Znarfgh

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It's been agreed that you do not connect any if wires to alternator. The install should be done as if you do not have a smart alternator
Probably my bad terminology - you connect the DC charger to the main battery. In the case of a smart alternator the DC charger will stop working once the main battery is fully charged as the alternator stops supplying current to the main battery. If you connect the ignition trigger this will trick the DC charger into continued operation and your second battery will continue to receive a charge.
 

Murray2105

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I will follow some simple steps:
  1. Read what is in the CTEK manual, how to guides and view the videos (a summary of which is in the first post);
  2. Pay an auto electrician to mate the two units and advise on the correct set up;
  3. Connecting the “Smart alternator cable” is intended to let the CTEK know a smart alternator is fitted to the car and have the charger function properly.
  4. I am going with what the auto electrician tells me. I suspect the “Smart alternator cable” will get connected.
  5. If something goes wrong, I will ask the auto electrician to fix it.
  6. Loose no sleep over the INEOS help desk CTEK "advice".
Hi doc
the smart alternator cable is already connected via the smart alternator so do you think it needs connecting on the dc to dc charger as well?
 

TheDocAUS

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Hi doc
the smart alternator cable is already connected via the smart alternator so do you think it needs connecting on the dc to dc charger as well?
There seems to be two different views. I will connect mine because that is what CTEK recommend. But I will talk to the auto electrician first.
 
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AnD3rew

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Hi doc
the smart alternator cable is already connected via the smart alternator so do you think it needs connecting on the dc to dc charger as well?
Not sure what you mean by “the smart alternator cable is already connected via the smart alternator”? In the standard install by INEOS they don’t connect the smart alternator canle of the Smartpass, they advise it isn’t necessary with this setup and it shouldn’t be connected although frustratingly they have provided no rationale or explanation for this. I have left mine disconnected for now and it does seem to keep both batteries charged. Will see if we ever get more information from INEOS or if I have issues with second battery running low.
 

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Not sure what you mean by “the smart alternator cable is already connected via the smart alternator”? In the standard install by INEOS they don’t connect the smart alternator canle of the Smartpass, they advise it isn’t necessary with this setup and it shouldn’t be connected although frustratingly they have provided no rationale or explanation for this. I have left mine disconnected for now and it does seem to keep both batteries charged. Will see if we ever get more information from INEOS or if I have issues with second battery running low.

Has anyone taken the plunge and hooked up the ignition wire on the 120S? It doesn't make sense that it would "Work as intended" if it isn't hooked up per the manufacturer recommendations. I read through most of the other thread and it seemed that the batteries weren't being charged to 100 percent.
 

AnD3rew

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Has anyone taken the plunge and hooked up the ignition wire on the 120S? It doesn't make sense that it would "Work as intended" if it isn't hooked up per the manufacturer recommendations. I read through most of the other thread and it seemed that the batteries weren't being charged to 100 percent.
I have bluetooth battery monitors on mine and I run the fridge from the second battery and mine seems to be ok so far.
 

Murray2105

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Not sure what you mean by “the smart alternator cable is already connected via the smart alternator”? In the standard install by INEOS they don’t connect the smart alternator canle of the Smartpass, they advise it isn’t necessary with this setup and it shouldn’t be connected although frustratingly they have provided no rationale or explanation for this. I have left mine disconnected for now and it does seem to keep both batteries charged. Will see if we ever get more information from INEOS or if I have issues with second battery running low.
Thanks Andrew. Mine isn’t connected either.
 
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