Auxiliary LEDs - Lightbars, Lights, Pods

[AnD3rew]

Question:
Has any designed or figured out a way to attach a light bar to the Rhino Rack Roof Bars (just the two rails, not the full roof rack)?

The physical attachment is easy, Rhino make several light bar attachment brackets as do others that will work with the Rhino bar. The challenge is where you want it positioned, in order to really be practical you need to position a bar a long way forward which looks a bit naff, and also if you only have two bars, its not very practical as it either has them both a long way forward or a big gap between them. If you put the front bar where you would normally have it, then the light bar is a long way back and you are going to waste a lot of light and if you have safari windows you are going to get glare coming through.

 

[jamesfielding]

The physical attachment is easy, Rhino make several light bar attachment brackets as do others that will work with the Rhino bar. The challenge is where you want it positioned, in order to really be practical you need to position a bar a long way forward which looks a bit naff, and also if you only have two bars, its not very practical as it either has them both a long way forward or a big gap between them. If you put the front bar where you would normally have it, then the light bar is a long way back and you are going to waste a lot of light and if you have safari windows you are going to get glare coming through.

Thanks for the tips Andrew.
Agreed it will be a long way back, but, that is a sacrifice I'm willing to make, as it will look neater with the cable routing too.
Are you able to post any links where I might find some brackets?

EDIT: am I right in thinking you can use a UNI Strut bracket that slides in the groove?

 

[TheDocAUS]

Question:
Has any designed or figured out a way to attach a light bar to the Rhino Rack Roof Bars (just the two rails, not the full roof rack)?

Look for the cross bar brackets: https://www.rhinorack.com/en-au/products/spares-brackets-components/brackets/light-brackets

Like this one here.

 

[Rubicon Maybe]

Thanks for the tips Andrew.
Agreed it will be a long way back, but, that is a sacrifice I'm willing to make, as it will look neater with the cable routing too.
Are you able to post any links where I might find some brackets?

EDIT: am I right in thinking you can use a UNI Strut bracket that slides in the groove?

This is the latest, greatest system for Rhino Rack. I will be using these with the full length Rhino Rack.​

1) Rhino-Rack STOW iT Roof Rack Crossbar Accessory Mounting System​

2) Light Bar Adapters for Rhino Rack STOW iT Roof Rack Crossbar Accessory Mounting System​

Item # RR76XP

 

[AnD3rew]

Look here. Many of these will work.

https://www.rhinorack.com/en-au/pro...ilters[price][min]=40&filters[price][max]=122

 

[AnD3rew]

Thanks for the tips Andrew.
Agreed it will be a long way back, but, that is a sacrifice I'm willing to make, as it will look neater with the cable routing too.
Are you able to post any links where I might find some brackets?

EDIT: am I right in thinking you can use a UNI Strut bracket that slides in the groove?

Look here. Many of these will work.https://www.rhinorack.com/en-au/pro...t-brackets/va-and-hd-led-light-brackets_43174

https://www.rhinorack.com/en-au/products/spares-brackets-components/brackets/light-brackets?filters[price][min]=40&filters[price][max]=122

 

[ECrider]

Question:
Has any designed or figured out a way to attach a light bar to the Rhino Rack Roof Bars (just the two rails, not the full roof rack)?

This is the Ineos fitted light bar to my Rhino bars. Sorry I don't have a link to the parts but as you can see it's a right angled bracket attached to the bar slot via a T-slot stud. (edit, sorry was talking and typing at the same time, on closer inspection not a stud but perhaps a bolt thru on to T-bracket, but the result is the same).

 

[jamesfielding]

This is the Ineos fitted light bar to my Rhino bars. Sorry I don't have a link to the parts but as you can see it's a right angled bracket attached to the bar slot via a T-slot stud. (edit, sorry was talking and typing at the same time, on closer inspection not a stud but perhaps a bolt thru on to T-bracket, but the result is the same).

Amazing thank you.
Yes, I think the nut that the allen key bolt fixes into is something like this, but without the spring.

 

[jamesfielding]

For those who are looking for this;

It’s called a Zebedee, you can pick them up really cheap from electrical wholesellers compared with paying top price from automotive dealers. You can choose thread sizes.

 

[marcusnilsson]

I’m borrowing this thread for a newbie question regarding the capacity of the DTP connectors (think I got the name correct?).

I’m looking for some high quality extra lights pointing forward (e.g. led bar or a couple of round lights), as well as working lights on the sides and rear.

If I’m correct the front right connector is intended for the forward facing lights and is 25A. Then there is another 25A for the other three connectors on the roof.

So my newbie question…what is the maximum “power” of the lights I can buy in order to not blow a fuse?

Most lights specify wattage consumption at 12 or 24V. Should I count with 12V, but I think the car is at 14,7 or something?

Taking the 25A fuse for the forward facing lights. That would give me either 300W at 12V or 367,5 at 14.7V.

For the other fuse I assume I just add up the amperage for the three lights I connect and they cannot exceed 25A using the same Voltage as in my previous question (12, or 14,7 or something else?)

Sorry for the long post. Hope someone can clarify.

 

[Lollo050968]

@marcusnilsson It depends on the used LED bar, at first if it use 12V, you have to count with 12V and not the voltage on the battery. 25A, 12V = 300 W is right, BUT have a look at the technical details of the lightbar you want to buy:
I bought a Hella 32“ Slim Lightbar, Voltage 10-30V, used A 8.9-12.5A, so W will be something around 120W.
The Lumen of the bar is important too, brands like Osram / Hella / etc. have at the same Lumen, the half or less consumption of cheap Asian parts.
At my Hella the a substitute cheap product have 368W…… Big difference. Hope that helps you…. And you can use every socket with 25A…

 

[marcusnilsson]

@marcusnilsson It depends on the used LED bar, at first if it use 12V, you have to count with 12V and not the voltage on the battery. 25A, 12V = 300 W is right, BUT have a look at the technical details of the lightbar you want to buy:
I bought a Hella 32“ Slim Lightbar, Voltage 10-30V, used A 8.9-12.5A, so W will be something around 120W.
The Lumen of the bar is important too, brands like Osram / Hella / etc. have at the same Lumen, the half or less consumption of cheap Asian parts.
At my Hella the a substitute cheap product have 368W…… Big difference. Hope that helps you…. And you can use every socket with 25A…

Thank you for the reply!

The light bar I’m considering is from a Swedish brand called Strands. I’m not familiar with them before but they seem to make quality products. This is from the data sheet;

• Voltage (V DC): 10-40V DC
• Consumption (w) 12V: 239
• Consumption (w) 24V: 239
• Theoretical lumen: 38400
• Actual lumen: 11280

Big difference between theoretical and actual lumen. But is getting 11280 lumen from 239watts classed as good or can I find better?

I attach the full fact sheet for anyone interested.

Regarding the fuse for front left and read left & right connectors, I don’t understand what you mean. Do they “share” 25Amp / 300w or do they each have 25Amp/300w? I assume they are always on at the same time since they are connected to the same switch.

Thank you, and merry Christmas

 

[Lollo050968]

@marcusnilsson You can use each with 25A, but I am sure that for additional working lights, you need not the 25A/each. For example my really bright back led, has 48W…..

The light bar:

 

[marcusnilsson]

@marcusnilsson You can use each with 25A, but I am sure that for additional working lights, you need not the 25A/each. For example my really bright back led, has 48W…..

The light bar:
View attachment 7837095

Thanks. is that actual lumens or theoretical? Sounds like you are getting a lot on a quite low wattage.

I spent more years than I’d like to admit in industrial engineering school but electrical engineering remains a mystery to me. I will look around a bit more for the “perfect” LED Bar and work lights.

Any additional recommendations would be much appreciated.

 

[Lollo050968]

Yes, I try do find a balance between practical lumen and low consumption.
The 9000lm are real.

I find some explanation in German and translate it by deepl. The „Chinese“ LED wrote nearly 100% only the theoretical lumen value, and not, the more important real measured value:

It should also not be forgotten that the luminous flux is measured under laboratory conditions. Here it is measured using special measuring devices and then calculated. It is not uncommon for the LED chip as such to be analysed, separate from the complete luminaire or retrofit. The luminous flux information provided by a manufacturer in the data sheets therefore does not necessarily correspond to the light output as it would be under real conditions, i.e. in practical operation. They are to be understood as gross values and do not take into account factors that may affect the net value, i.e. the actual luminous flux of a luminaire. These include, for example, characteristics of the luminaire design such as the design language, materials and glass, but also control gear, optics and ambient temperature

Effective lumen = Effective luminous flux produced by a lamp after 30 minutes of operation. Raw lumen = Maximum value of lumens that each LED diode can produce, multiplied by the number of diodes in the device. Lumen at switch-on = The luminous flux produced when the luminaire is switched on.

 

[bemax]

I’m borrowing this thread for a newbie question regarding the capacity of the DTP connectors (think I got the name correct?).

I’m looking for some high quality extra lights pointing forward (e.g. led bar or a couple of round lights), as well as working lights on the sides and rear.

If I’m correct the front right connector is intended for the forward facing lights and is 25A. Then there is another 25A for the other three connectors on the roof.

So my newbie question…what is the maximum “power” of the lights I can buy in order to not blow a fuse?

Most lights specify wattage consumption at 12 or 24V. Should I count with 12V, but I think the car is at 14,7 or something?

Taking the 25A fuse for the forward facing lights. That would give me either 300W at 12V or 367,5 at 14.7V.

For the other fuse I assume I just add up the amperage for the three lights I connect and they cannot exceed 25A using the same Voltage as in my previous question (12, or 14,7 or something else?)

Sorry for the long post. Hope someone can clarify.

If you need further information about the light topic you might ask @AWo. He is capable of explaining it very good (I didn‘t read all answers here which will be perfectly good as well!)

 

[marcusnilsson]

If you need further information about the light topic you might ask @AWo. He is capable of explaining it very good (I didn‘t read all answers here which will be perfectly good as well!)

Thanks for the guidance. I will try .

 

[DenisM]

Just to clarify the power allowance for each external roof outlet: The front RHS outlet can carry a max of 25A (nominal 300W) controlled by overhead switch Ext 2. The other three roof outlets are switched by Ext3. The 25A rating on Ext3 is a total or "shared" power allocation. I.e. you can't safely draw 25A through each of the other three outlets at the same time

 

[Lollo050968]

Just to clarify the power allowance for each external roof outlet: The front RHS outlet can carry a max of 25A (nominal 300W) controlled by overhead switch Ext 2. The other three roof outlets are switched by Ext3. The 25A rating on Ext3 is a total or "shared" power allocation. I.e. you can't safely draw 25A through each of the other three outlets at the same time

Thanks for clarification! I have on Ext. 2 now 13-14 A and on Ext. 3 7A, and bright light all around…..

 

[AnD3rew]

Thank you for the reply!

The light bar I’m considering is from a Swedish brand called Strands. I’m not familiar with them before but they seem to make quality products. This is from the data sheet;

• Voltage (V DC): 10-40V DC
• Consumption (w) 12V: 239
• Consumption (w) 24V: 239
• Theoretical lumen: 38400
• Actual lumen: 11280

Big difference between theoretical and actual lumen. But is getting 11280 lumen from 239watts classed as good or can I find better?

I attach the full fact sheet for anyone interested.

Regarding the fuse for front left and read left & right connectors, I don’t understand what you mean. Do they “share” 25Amp / 300w or do they each have 25Amp/300w? I assume they are always on at the same time since they are connected to the same switch.

Thank you, and merry Christmas

This webinar from Robert Pepper with the CEO of Lazer lights is worth a watch. But basically Lux at a certain distance (eg: at what distance can you measure 1 lux) is probably more important than lumen as lumen is basically measured at the output of the diode and whether that is effective or not is dependent on position of the diode and the reflector, CRI and colour temp also important.

https://youtu.be/U86kNxqlAq4?si=vfZn2iLsQWrrMi1V